Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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#1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2012
Location: massachusetts
Posts: 1,710
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Summer is but a blink up here.
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#2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Tomato Cornhole
Posts: 2,550
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That is a blink, I have double that here in Lafayette La.
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Rob |
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#3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Maine, 4b
Posts: 73
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Really? Got to start talking about that already.....
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Ken Last edited by asaump; July 26, 2019 at 04:10 PM. |
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#4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: connecticut,usa
Posts: 1,150
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I never even make that.
if I have plants in the garden in September I am doing good. I lost plants already to disease. |
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#5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: MA
Posts: 4,966
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![]() That's only a reasonable estimate. The first frost could be much later (and we don't want to think about the other end of the spectrum). I'm also in Massachusetts. I really don't think that much about the first frost, because most tomato varieties, in my garden, get to be tasting fairly skunky before that first frost. Late in the year, If I slice open a beefsteak and the outer wall of flesh is about 1/16 of an inch thick (it's usually 1/4"+ thick in mid-summer), it's a virtual assurance of it being a spitter. October 1st is usually about the end of the season for good tasting tomatoes, with the frost not too far behind that. But, one year I picked my last tomato on November 19th with the first frost predicted the next day (and a very hard frost happened). A few days later the tomato was fully ripe, and surprisingly it tasted very good. |
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#6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,460
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73 days for me, but I like to focus on the positive. That means in an average year I still have time to get fully ripe tomatoes from flowers that haven't even formed yet. I have not yet gotten my first ripe tomato, so talking about the end being near is a little too debbie downer for me. I am going to focus on all those tomatoes that haven't even formed yet.
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#7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Newfoundland, Canada
Posts: 6,794
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The little fruits that are forming here now will be ripe without a doubt in about 45 days. True, that's already September.
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#8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Germany
Posts: 1
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Start some micros for indoor growing to survive winter season
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#9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: El Lago, Texas
Posts: 1,100
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My average first frost date, if I even have one, is December 11-December 20th.
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Donna, Zone 9, Texas Gulf Coast |
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#10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Williamsburg VA Zone 7b
Posts: 1,110
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After years in Wisconsin, I'm still not used to the growing season in Virginia. Just said to my wife - I've got to plant a later crop of tomatoes! Long vines are not fairing well in the sunny hot summer this year.
JEff |
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#11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: connecticut,usa
Posts: 1,150
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I salvaged a tomato mice were gnawing on and planted the seeds today.
I hope they were mature enough to pop. I planted in cement blocks may 8th so I am going on my 3rd month + |
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#12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: connecticut,usa
Posts: 1,150
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I have a raised bed from ocean state joblot with a plastic cover that
I will utilize in the end days. Too hot for the cover now but I should rig a mesh net over it. |
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#13 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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![]() Quote:
My best results with late tomatoes usually comes from staggered plantings that are set out in June and July. By that time most of my earliest set outs are in real decline though many are still producing a few good fruits which usually keeps me from pulling them when I should. Bill |
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#14 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Finland, EU
Posts: 2,550
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#15 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: connecticut,usa
Posts: 1,150
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take a shovel and cut 1/2 the roots around the plant.
speeds up the ripening process putting the plant under stress. |
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