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-   -   Ironite Vinegar and MG. (http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=22868)

Worth1 May 18, 2012 10:48 PM

Ironite Vinegar and MG.
 
All of my plants looked yellow and blue veined with purple stems.
I new I had put 16 16 16 in the raised beds and went to work hoping for the best.
Nope I got home and some of the plants were growing but some right next to them did little if anything.

So this time home I decided to cure or kill everything.

Because I had already put on what I thought plenty of fertilizer I knew it had to be one or two of 2 things.

Low in iron or soil too alkaline.
I tested the soil and it was around 7.5 or 8

So I bought a big bag of Ironite 1-0-1 and spread it everywhere.
I sprayed the beds down with a solution of vinegar.
Then to top it off I sprayed the garden down with MG fertilizer for blooming plants.

3 days later the garden is exploding with growth and blooms, even the stunted plants are coming out of it.

Call it what you will but I needed results and fast I dont have time to wait, summer is on the way.:evil:

I'm glad something worked.:)

Worth

Zana May 18, 2012 11:00 PM

WTG....glad it worked out so fast. Wish all results could be that good and that fast.

Zana

meatburner May 18, 2012 11:46 PM

Good save Worth!

b54red May 19, 2012 02:07 AM

Worth I may try that vinegar idea. I have been adding lots of stuff like manure and cottonseed meal yet my soil remains stubbornly alkaline. I frequently have problems with iron deficiency and have to use iron supplements but sometimes they don't work fast enough.

How much vinegar did you use and on what size bed? I have one area that seems to always give me problems with iron deficiency even though I add some iron supplements to the area every spring before planting.

FILMNET May 19, 2012 05:52 AM

Is there a Doctor in the house?

Worth1 May 19, 2012 10:39 AM

[QUOTE=b54red;276030]Worth I may try that vinegar idea. I have been adding lots of stuff like manure and cottonseed meal yet my soil remains stubbornly alkaline. I frequently have problems with iron deficiency and have to use iron supplements but sometimes they don't work fast enough.

How much vinegar did you use and on what size bed? I have one area that seems to always give me problems with iron deficiency even though I add some iron supplements to the area every spring before planting.[/QUOTE]


I set the Ortho dial and spray dial on 8 oz and put filled it up with 5% acidity vinegar then sprayed 2 5X12 beds with it.
The ground foamed when it hit.

You should try 1-0-1 Ironite.

Worth

TigersAU777 May 19, 2012 12:17 PM

[QUOTE=Worth1;276090]I set the Ortho dial and spray dial on 8 oz and put filled it up with 5% acidity vinegar then sprayed 2 5X12 beds with it.
The ground foamed when it hit.

You should try 1-0-1 Ironite.

Worth[/QUOTE]

I also have alkaline soil...but dont have the spray and dial. I have a pump spray bottle that is 40 oz. can you tell me approximately what percentage of vinegar to water i would need? Also would boric acid work or no?

Worth1 May 19, 2012 12:36 PM

[QUOTE=TigersAU777;276107]I also have alkaline soil...but dont have the spray and dial. I have a pump spray bottle that is 40 oz. can you tell me approximately what percentage of vinegar to water i would need? Also would boric acid work or no?[/QUOTE]

The Ortho dial and sprays settings are for ratio to gallon of water.
So at my best guess I put 32 ounces of vinegar in the container and sprayed at a ration of 8 ounces to on gallon.
That would be 1 cup per gallon of 5% acidity vinegar.

I saw some agricultural vinegar at the store for a lot higher price and I said what the heck I'll use what I have.

I would have no idea about the boric acid but I think I saw some stuff with phosphoric acid in it for the same purpose.

They have a product that is for turning hydrangea blooms from pink to blue ad blue to pink.
One is acidic and the other is alkali.

You can also use sulfur to make soil acid.

Here is a link and a chart at the bottom of the page.
[URL]http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=soil%20to%20alkaline%20how%20to%20lower&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CGgQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ipm.iastate.edu%2Fipm%2Fhortnews%2F1994%2F4-6-1994%2Fph.html&ei=SMu3T_TwA4Sy2QWyt6S_CQ&usg=AFQjCNEiK3LU_elej5NCxF6A-KE9mi6Z5g&cad=rja[/URL]

The whole thing was an experiment for me. I had no idea what I was doing and it worked.:roll:

Worth

TigersAU777 May 19, 2012 12:48 PM

[QUOTE=Worth1;276109]The Ortho dial and sprays settings are for ratio to gallon of water.
So at my best guess I put 32 ounces of vinegar in the container and sprayed at a ration of 8 ounces to on gallon.
That would be 1 cup per gallon of 5% acidity vinegar.

I saw some agricultural vinegar at the store for a lot higher price and I said what the heck I'll use what I have.

I would have no idea about the boric acid but I think I saw some stuff with phosphoric acid in it for the same purpose.

They have a product that is for turning hydrangea blooms from pink to blue ad blue to pink.
One is acidic and the other is alkali.

You can also use sulfur to make soil acid.

Here is a link and a chart at the bottom of the page.
[URL]http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=soil%20to%20alkaline%20how%20to%20lower&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CGgQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ipm.iastate.edu%2Fipm%2Fhortnews%2F1994%2F4-6-1994%2Fph.html&ei=SMu3T_TwA4Sy2QWyt6S_CQ&usg=AFQjCNEiK3LU_elej5NCxF6A-KE9mi6Z5g&cad=rja[/URL]

The whole thing was an experiment for me. I had no idea what I was doing and it worked.:roll:

Worth[/QUOTE]


Thank you much. I found one tomato today with BER so I am also trying to add calcium without disturbing the plant....would milk work? I'm unsure of what to use and how much to try to tweak my soil.

Worth1 May 19, 2012 12:57 PM

[QUOTE=TigersAU777;276114]Thank you much. I found one tomato today with BER so I am also trying to add calcium without disturbing the plant....would milk work? I'm unsure of what to use and how much to try to tweak my soil.[/QUOTE]


I have no idea, could it be erratic watering in containers or in the soil.
Past tomatoes especially Romas when small, have done this to me.
I haven't had BER in years.

Most soil has enough calcium.

I have heard tums works.:lol:

Worth

TigersAU777 May 19, 2012 01:01 PM

[QUOTE=Worth1;276116]I have no idea, could it be erratic watering in containers or in the soil.
Past tomatoes especially Romas when small, have done this to me.
I haven't had BER in years.

Most soil has enough calcium.

I have heard tums works.:lol:

Worth[/QUOTE]

Well, I water lightly twice a day....my soil never gets even close to dry. This is why I am suspecting the calcium. I have them in containers which makes me think that I may have washed away the calcium that was there I am not sure. I just know that I have not done anything to replace calcium that may have been diminished.

tedln May 19, 2012 02:15 PM

Worth, I've used a heavy dose of Ironite in my garden beds each spring for a couple of years. It works. The product is designed to release the minerals on a typical lawn. I decided to not use the vinegar on top of the Ironite because it should become chemically available to the plants without breaking it down with acid. I also am concerned the vinegar acid will convert some of the minerals to an oxide which may not be useful for the plants. If you read the list of minerals it delivers, it is an all you can eat buffet of everything from Calcium to Iron. It does concern me that I can achieve a toxic level of some minerals by applying it year after year. I haven't seen any indication of mineral poisoning yet, but it does concern me. Ted

walkinggin May 19, 2012 02:43 PM

[QUOTE=TigersAU777;276118]Well, I water lightly twice a day....my soil never gets even close to dry. This is why I am suspecting the calcium. I have them in containers which makes me think that I may have washed away the calcium that was there I am not sure. I just know that I have not done anything to replace calcium that may have been diminished.[/QUOTE]

You could try blackstrap molasses rather than milk.It contains good amounts of iron, potassium and magnesium as well as calcium and it is cheaper. I water my tomatoes in pots with it once a week 1tb per gallon of water. Blackstrap molasses can easily be found at any natural food store and some supermarkets.

Worth- regarding soil alkalinity and vinegar, I wonder how long the acidity lasts in the soil and whether it would build up over time. Have you tested your soil since you amended it?I have been adding a tb of 5%vinegar to a gallon of water for my pots because not only is my soil ph high but my water hovers at 8 or higher as well.

ginny

Worth1 May 19, 2012 04:33 PM

[QUOTE=walkinggin;276134]You could try blackstrap molasses rather than milk.It contains good amounts of iron, potassium and magnesium as well as calcium and it is cheaper. I water my tomatoes in pots with it once a week 1tb per gallon of water. Blackstrap molasses can easily be found at any natural food store and some supermarkets.

Worth- regarding soil alkalinity and vinegar, I wonder how long the acidity lasts in the soil and whether it would build up over time. Have you tested your soil since you amended it?I have been adding a tb of 5%vinegar to a gallon of water for my pots because not only is my soil ph high but my water hovers at 8 or higher as well.

ginny[/QUOTE]


No I havent tested my soil yet but may do so plus the way I have the beds set up I dont think it will build up as it can wash out the bottom.

How long it lasts I have no idea it was what I might call a temporary fix.
Like taking high blood pressure pills instead of changing your diet.

It is my first try at raised beds and have to start from scratch and have a lot to learn.
I dont even know if it changed the ph or if it was the iron or what, it just worked.
what ever it was it worked in a big way.

Worth

tedln May 19, 2012 05:10 PM

Worth, I'm also growing in raised beds and you are right. The minerals and nutrients leach out the bottom of the beds unless you seal them on the bottom with plastic or something. I didn't seal mine because I wanted the earth worms to be able to move around at will. I can tell my beds leach by the growth rate of the grass growing in the walk ways between my beds. I treat all my beds the same when preparing them through the winter. I then treat each plant type individually as required through the season based on growth, production, and foliage color. I noticed this morning one of my cucumber beds was exhibiting yellowing leaves with the yellow color extending into the fruit that has set the last few days. Normally that sign indicates low nitrogen and iron. I lowered the timed water to the bed to reduce leaching and applied some nitrogen fertilizer and some Ironite and watered it in. Within two or three days, the cucumber plants should return to their normal dark green color. We have experienced a few days of hot and very windy weather. That usually means the tomato plants will be pulling a lot more moisture from the soil to replace the excessive moisture lost by increased transpiration. When that happens, it interferes with the calcium uptake rate resulting in some blossom end rot on the developing fruit. I added some Ironite to my tomatoes last week and watered it in well to compensate for the lower calcium uptake to the fruit. Hopefully the problem is resolved before it occurs. Ted

Tracydr May 19, 2012 05:18 PM

[QUOTE=Worth1;276090]I set the Ortho dial and spray dial on 8 oz and put filled it up with 5% acidity vinegar then sprayed 2 5X12 beds with it.
The ground foamed when it hit.

You should try 1-0-1 Ironite.

Worth[/QUOTE]

I'm going to keep your recipe. Every summer and winter, in the heat and cold I have iron deficiency symptoms. Especially the peppers and hibiscus. Lemons, too.
I may have to give some foliar feeding a try, myself. It's getting really hot early here and my plants aren't far enough along.

Tracydr May 19, 2012 05:19 PM

[QUOTE=TigersAU777;276107]I also have alkaline soil...but dont have the spray and dial. I have a pump spray bottle that is 40 oz. can you tell me approximately what percentage of vinegar to water i would need? Also would boric acid work or no?[/QUOTE]

Stay away from the boric acid! Borax toxicity is horrible and it doesn't take much to make soil toxic to plants.

Worth1 May 19, 2012 05:42 PM

[QUOTE=Tracydr;276168]I'm going to keep your recipe. Every summer and winter, in the heat and cold I have iron deficiency symptoms. Especially the peppers and hibiscus. Lemons, too.
I may have to give some foliar feeding a try, myself. It's getting really hot early here and my plants aren't far enough along.[/QUOTE]

Tracy the Ironite I use was put on the ground at about 1/2 inch to 1 inch spacing between granules.
I just slung it on by hand.
I have been Doctoring my neighbors yard that adjoins mine.
He is stumped as to why that part of the yard looks so much better than the rest of his yard.:twisted:
He knows I'm up to something he just doesn't know what it is.:?

Worth

Tracydr May 19, 2012 05:55 PM

[QUOTE=tedln;276165]Worth, I'm also growing in raised beds and you are right. The minerals and nutrients leach out the bottom of the beds unless you seal them on the bottom with plastic or something. I didn't seal mine because I wanted the earth worms to be able to move around at will. I can tell my beds leach by the growth rate of the grass growing in the walk ways between my beds. I treat all my beds the same when preparing them through the winter. I then treat each plant type individually as required through the season based on growth, production, and foliage color. I noticed this morning one of my cucumber beds was exhibiting yellowing leaves with the yellow color extending into the fruit that has set the last few days. Normally that sign indicates low nitrogen and iron. I lowered the timed water to the bed to reduce leaching and applied some nitrogen fertilizer and some Ironite and watered it in. Within two or three days, the cucumber plants should return to their normal dark green color. We have experienced a few days of hot and very windy weather. That usually means the tomato plants will be pulling a lot more moisture from the soil to replace the excessive moisture lost by increased transpiration. When that happens, it interferes with the calcium uptake rate resulting in some blossom end rot on the developing fruit. I added some Ironite to my tomatoes last week and watered it in well to compensate for the lower calcium uptake to the fruit. Hopefully the problem is resolved before it occurs. Ted[/QUOTE]
I never thought to use ironite for the calcium with BER caused by heat/transpiration! Dang, that's the problem I'm having with my Striped Romans right now. I put gypsum around them last night and watered them with some fish emulsion. I was hoping the sulphur and calcium in the gypsum would help.
I've not used ironite for this purpose but have used it for Worth's problem with very quick results.

Tracydr May 19, 2012 05:56 PM

[QUOTE=Worth1;276170]Tracy the Ironite I use was put on the ground at about 1/2 inch to 1 inch spacing between granules.
I just slung it on by hand.
I have been Doctoring my neighbors yard that adjoins mine.
He is stumped as to why that part of the yard looks so much better than the rest of his yard.:twisted:
He knows I'm up to something he just doesn't know what it is.:?

Worth[/QUOTE]

Ha ha! Hasn't he seen the ironite bag? It says "it greens up lawns fast" or something like that.

tedln May 19, 2012 07:59 PM

Tracy, The gypsum will work also. I used to pulverize old gypsum wall board into powder and use it. I wouldn't do it with modern wall board because it contains so many other products I don't want in the garden. I like the Ironite because it contains so many minerals in one application. Ted

TigersAU777 May 20, 2012 12:50 AM

I ended up applying bone meal for calcium and gave a vinegar solution treatment as well to give my soil more acidity. There was a soil acidifier at home depot but it was granular and seemed like it would take a while to take effect. I am also considering adding an iron supplement but from what I am reading the alkaline soil could just be blocking the plant from absorbing iron that is there. Should I wait and see if the vinegar works or go ahead and add something with iron? Also can I get ANY molasses for my plants or is it specific kinds?

eltex May 20, 2012 07:00 AM

I've seen symptoms of iron deficiency this year in some of our perennial beds. I put down some Texas greensand and it cleared it right up. I figured that the other trace minerals in the sand would also be helpful for the plants. I liked it so much, I think I will start to add some to each raised bed in the spring. It took about a week to see results on our perennials, so the ironite might be a faster option as well.

TigersAU777 May 21, 2012 07:08 PM

I could not find 1-0-1 ironite in a small enough bag at home depot so I bought the 12-10-10 Ironite plus with 2% Iron. I have held off on my fertilizer for several days so that I could apply it without fear of burning. I put approximately 1 Tbsp. per 5 gallon container that I have. Is this enough or could I stand to put more?

Worth1 May 21, 2012 07:19 PM

[QUOTE=TigersAU777;276688]I could not find 1-0-1 ironite in a small enough bag at home depot so I bought the 12-10-10 Ironite plus with 2% Iron. I have held off on my fertilizer for several days so that I could apply it without fear of burning. I put approximately 1 Tbsp. per 5 gallon container that I have. Is this enough or could I stand to put more?[/QUOTE]

Lowes has the small bag of 1-0-1

Worth

TigersAU777 May 21, 2012 07:22 PM

Well I bought the 12-10-10 lol...do u know how much of IT i should use?

Worth1 May 21, 2012 07:29 PM

[QUOTE=TigersAU777;276696]Well I bought the 12-10-10 lol...do u know how much of IT i should use?[/QUOTE]

I have no idea sorry.

Worth

tedln May 21, 2012 07:50 PM

I'm starting a new fescue lawn in the front and back of our house. We built a new house in Jaunary and the soil around the house is almost devoid of minerals and nutrients. I will be putting a 40 lb bag of 13-13-13 fertilizer and a large bag of Ironite on the front lawn and the same on the back lawn. The total area is not very large. In the garden, I usually mix the same fertilizer and Ironite at a 50/50 ratio in a 42 oz coffee can and store the can in the garden. Some vegetables like cucumbers and squash are nitrogen and mineral hogs requiring frequent applications by hand. I can't even guess at the amount for each application. My tomatoes rarely require extra nutrients through the growing season. One of the reasons I plant my tomato seedlings really deep is to allow them to benefit from the nutrients leaching downward through the beds all season.

Ted

TigersAU777 May 21, 2012 07:50 PM

Well, I am only really applying it for the Iron...and I will probably lay off of any fertilizers that are not organic for a while to make sure I dont burn my plants. How much of the 1-0-1 would I put per plant? Thanks for putting up with all the questions Worth. I am a total noob!!!

TigersAU777 May 21, 2012 07:59 PM

NM...using a little math and a scale to weigh a tbsp I came up with about 2-3 tbsp for all my plants the 12-10-10 based on the bag saying to use 1.5-3 lb for 300 square feet. Thanks again Worth for all the help you have given me on here!


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