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Old May 18, 2012   #1
Worth1
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Default Ironite Vinegar and MG.

All of my plants looked yellow and blue veined with purple stems.
I new I had put 16 16 16 in the raised beds and went to work hoping for the best.
Nope I got home and some of the plants were growing but some right next to them did little if anything.

So this time home I decided to cure or kill everything.

Because I had already put on what I thought plenty of fertilizer I knew it had to be one or two of 2 things.

Low in iron or soil too alkaline.
I tested the soil and it was around 7.5 or 8

So I bought a big bag of Ironite 1-0-1 and spread it everywhere.
I sprayed the beds down with a solution of vinegar.
Then to top it off I sprayed the garden down with MG fertilizer for blooming plants.

3 days later the garden is exploding with growth and blooms, even the stunted plants are coming out of it.

Call it what you will but I needed results and fast I dont have time to wait, summer is on the way.

I'm glad something worked.

Worth
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Old May 18, 2012   #2
Zana
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WTG....glad it worked out so fast. Wish all results could be that good and that fast.

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Old May 18, 2012   #3
meatburner
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Good save Worth!
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Old May 19, 2012   #4
b54red
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Worth I may try that vinegar idea. I have been adding lots of stuff like manure and cottonseed meal yet my soil remains stubbornly alkaline. I frequently have problems with iron deficiency and have to use iron supplements but sometimes they don't work fast enough.

How much vinegar did you use and on what size bed? I have one area that seems to always give me problems with iron deficiency even though I add some iron supplements to the area every spring before planting.
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Old May 19, 2012   #5
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Is there a Doctor in the house?
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Old May 19, 2012   #6
Worth1
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Worth I may try that vinegar idea. I have been adding lots of stuff like manure and cottonseed meal yet my soil remains stubbornly alkaline. I frequently have problems with iron deficiency and have to use iron supplements but sometimes they don't work fast enough.

How much vinegar did you use and on what size bed? I have one area that seems to always give me problems with iron deficiency even though I add some iron supplements to the area every spring before planting.

I set the Ortho dial and spray dial on 8 oz and put filled it up with 5% acidity vinegar then sprayed 2 5X12 beds with it.
The ground foamed when it hit.

You should try 1-0-1 Ironite.

Worth
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Old May 19, 2012   #7
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I set the Ortho dial and spray dial on 8 oz and put filled it up with 5% acidity vinegar then sprayed 2 5X12 beds with it.
The ground foamed when it hit.

You should try 1-0-1 Ironite.

Worth
I also have alkaline soil...but dont have the spray and dial. I have a pump spray bottle that is 40 oz. can you tell me approximately what percentage of vinegar to water i would need? Also would boric acid work or no?
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Old May 19, 2012   #8
Worth1
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I also have alkaline soil...but dont have the spray and dial. I have a pump spray bottle that is 40 oz. can you tell me approximately what percentage of vinegar to water i would need? Also would boric acid work or no?
The Ortho dial and sprays settings are for ratio to gallon of water.
So at my best guess I put 32 ounces of vinegar in the container and sprayed at a ration of 8 ounces to on gallon.
That would be 1 cup per gallon of 5% acidity vinegar.

I saw some agricultural vinegar at the store for a lot higher price and I said what the heck I'll use what I have.

I would have no idea about the boric acid but I think I saw some stuff with phosphoric acid in it for the same purpose.

They have a product that is for turning hydrangea blooms from pink to blue ad blue to pink.
One is acidic and the other is alkali.

You can also use sulfur to make soil acid.

Here is a link and a chart at the bottom of the page.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...mi6Z5g&cad=rja

The whole thing was an experiment for me. I had no idea what I was doing and it worked.

Worth
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Old May 19, 2012   #9
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Originally Posted by Worth1 View Post
The Ortho dial and sprays settings are for ratio to gallon of water.
So at my best guess I put 32 ounces of vinegar in the container and sprayed at a ration of 8 ounces to on gallon.
That would be 1 cup per gallon of 5% acidity vinegar.

I saw some agricultural vinegar at the store for a lot higher price and I said what the heck I'll use what I have.

I would have no idea about the boric acid but I think I saw some stuff with phosphoric acid in it for the same purpose.

They have a product that is for turning hydrangea blooms from pink to blue ad blue to pink.
One is acidic and the other is alkali.

You can also use sulfur to make soil acid.

Here is a link and a chart at the bottom of the page.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...mi6Z5g&cad=rja

The whole thing was an experiment for me. I had no idea what I was doing and it worked.

Worth

Thank you much. I found one tomato today with BER so I am also trying to add calcium without disturbing the plant....would milk work? I'm unsure of what to use and how much to try to tweak my soil.
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Old May 19, 2012   #10
Worth1
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Thank you much. I found one tomato today with BER so I am also trying to add calcium without disturbing the plant....would milk work? I'm unsure of what to use and how much to try to tweak my soil.

I have no idea, could it be erratic watering in containers or in the soil.
Past tomatoes especially Romas when small, have done this to me.
I haven't had BER in years.

Most soil has enough calcium.

I have heard tums works.

Worth
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Old May 19, 2012   #11
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I have no idea, could it be erratic watering in containers or in the soil.
Past tomatoes especially Romas when small, have done this to me.
I haven't had BER in years.

Most soil has enough calcium.

I have heard tums works.

Worth
Well, I water lightly twice a day....my soil never gets even close to dry. This is why I am suspecting the calcium. I have them in containers which makes me think that I may have washed away the calcium that was there I am not sure. I just know that I have not done anything to replace calcium that may have been diminished.
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Old May 19, 2012   #12
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Worth, I've used a heavy dose of Ironite in my garden beds each spring for a couple of years. It works. The product is designed to release the minerals on a typical lawn. I decided to not use the vinegar on top of the Ironite because it should become chemically available to the plants without breaking it down with acid. I also am concerned the vinegar acid will convert some of the minerals to an oxide which may not be useful for the plants. If you read the list of minerals it delivers, it is an all you can eat buffet of everything from Calcium to Iron. It does concern me that I can achieve a toxic level of some minerals by applying it year after year. I haven't seen any indication of mineral poisoning yet, but it does concern me. Ted
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Old May 19, 2012   #13
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Well, I water lightly twice a day....my soil never gets even close to dry. This is why I am suspecting the calcium. I have them in containers which makes me think that I may have washed away the calcium that was there I am not sure. I just know that I have not done anything to replace calcium that may have been diminished.
You could try blackstrap molasses rather than milk.It contains good amounts of iron, potassium and magnesium as well as calcium and it is cheaper. I water my tomatoes in pots with it once a week 1tb per gallon of water. Blackstrap molasses can easily be found at any natural food store and some supermarkets.

Worth- regarding soil alkalinity and vinegar, I wonder how long the acidity lasts in the soil and whether it would build up over time. Have you tested your soil since you amended it?I have been adding a tb of 5%vinegar to a gallon of water for my pots because not only is my soil ph high but my water hovers at 8 or higher as well.

ginny
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Old May 19, 2012   #14
Worth1
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You could try blackstrap molasses rather than milk.It contains good amounts of iron, potassium and magnesium as well as calcium and it is cheaper. I water my tomatoes in pots with it once a week 1tb per gallon of water. Blackstrap molasses can easily be found at any natural food store and some supermarkets.

Worth- regarding soil alkalinity and vinegar, I wonder how long the acidity lasts in the soil and whether it would build up over time. Have you tested your soil since you amended it?I have been adding a tb of 5%vinegar to a gallon of water for my pots because not only is my soil ph high but my water hovers at 8 or higher as well.

ginny

No I havent tested my soil yet but may do so plus the way I have the beds set up I dont think it will build up as it can wash out the bottom.

How long it lasts I have no idea it was what I might call a temporary fix.
Like taking high blood pressure pills instead of changing your diet.

It is my first try at raised beds and have to start from scratch and have a lot to learn.
I dont even know if it changed the ph or if it was the iron or what, it just worked.
what ever it was it worked in a big way.

Worth
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Old May 19, 2012   #15
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Worth, I'm also growing in raised beds and you are right. The minerals and nutrients leach out the bottom of the beds unless you seal them on the bottom with plastic or something. I didn't seal mine because I wanted the earth worms to be able to move around at will. I can tell my beds leach by the growth rate of the grass growing in the walk ways between my beds. I treat all my beds the same when preparing them through the winter. I then treat each plant type individually as required through the season based on growth, production, and foliage color. I noticed this morning one of my cucumber beds was exhibiting yellowing leaves with the yellow color extending into the fruit that has set the last few days. Normally that sign indicates low nitrogen and iron. I lowered the timed water to the bed to reduce leaching and applied some nitrogen fertilizer and some Ironite and watered it in. Within two or three days, the cucumber plants should return to their normal dark green color. We have experienced a few days of hot and very windy weather. That usually means the tomato plants will be pulling a lot more moisture from the soil to replace the excessive moisture lost by increased transpiration. When that happens, it interferes with the calcium uptake rate resulting in some blossom end rot on the developing fruit. I added some Ironite to my tomatoes last week and watered it in well to compensate for the lower calcium uptake to the fruit. Hopefully the problem is resolved before it occurs. Ted
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