Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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April 2, 2012 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: oak grove mo
Posts: 406
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Chlormines and mycos
I found out our water has chlorimines and not chlorine. My understanding is this chlorimines and amonia kills the mycos we add to help the tomato . If I'm spending all my money on actinovite, mycogrow and biota max and my water is killing them i'm spinning my wheels. So has anyone used the Aquaruim chemicaled that get the chlorimine and amonia outy of the water. If so what products do you use.
Last edited by augiedog55; April 2, 2012 at 08:11 PM. Reason: spelling |
April 2, 2012 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Fairfax, VA Z7
Posts: 524
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Check and see if your local Wal Mart grocery has filter water that you can fill your own 1 gallon jugs for $.37
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April 3, 2012 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Germany 49°26"N 07°36"E
Posts: 5,041
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OK, there are few solutions to your Chloramine problem. As far as your plant dip is concerned you can buy bottled water as geeboss suggested or add 1 Tsp black strap molasses to 5 gallons of water and let it set for about 30 minutes plus it will feed the myco's you will be adding prior to dipping your plants. If you have any containers to store water you can treat 75gal of water with 1000mg Viatamin C. I believe Ray has an inline water filter to remove choramines to the water distribution lines running to his tainers. The filter was not that expensive and can be used in a drip system as well.
When watering plants in the ground normally any chloramine will be dissipated in the first 1/2 inch by the soil. Ami
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April 3, 2012 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: oak grove mo
Posts: 406
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Thanks for the help. I was really starting to get concerned about the water. Ami,So for my dip i get 5 gallons of tap water add molassis then add my actinovite,mycogrow and biotamax and all is well? And then dip of course?
As far as the vitamin c goes is it what I can get at the store? Do you crush the pill up it up so it disssolves? Can too much in the ratio hurt the plants? So with 37 gal 500 mg and 18 gal 250mg? I've got 18 gallon containers |
April 3, 2012 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Germany 49°26"N 07°36"E
Posts: 5,041
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Augie, For your dip go ahead and add the Vitamin C, use 100 mg for 5 gal. Use regular vitamin C from Walmart or a Drug Store. Grind it up and put in a quart Jar with warm water and let it dissolve and you can put a lid on the jar so you can shake it to hasten dissolving. Once that is done add to your 5 gals of water and stir. Then add some warm water to the jar and add a tsp of molasses, lid the jar and shake till the molasses is dissolved and add this to the 5 gal of water you put the vitamin C in and stir. Let the solution set for 30 min and then you can add the myco's/Actinovate to the solution and your ready to dip-n-plant. Make sure you stir the solution periodically when dipping the plants to keep the ingredients suspended in the solution. When you draw your initial 5 Gal of water use hot and cold water so it ends up being lukewarm. Ami
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Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘...Holy Crap .....What a ride!' |
April 3, 2012 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: oak grove mo
Posts: 406
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Ami, Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us. I know for one I really appreciate it
Bruce |
April 3, 2012 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Eastern Suburb of Sacramento, CA
Posts: 1,313
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Hi Ami-
While I do have the molasses, Actinovate, Biota-max, and Mycogrow Soluble available, I decided to not perform the dip before removing my seedlings from their 6" pots and planting to beds this past Sunday. One of the reasons for this was I that I did not wish to wet the soil around the pot before removing the root-ball, as I believe that I can more easily excise the plant and root ball with drier soil. I've read that perturbation of the roots during transplant can significantly affect the root development of a nascent tomato vine. I also wanted to be careful about overloading/stressing the plants at transplant. Based on issues I'd seen when applying the above amendment combination, folks seemed to think it was a too much of a good thing type of scenario. So, I ended up applying only a dilute liquid fish/kelp application with the first watering. I would still like to apply the goodies, and I'm wondering if you have any recommendations for an in-ground/bed application regimen for these? Thanks, Naysen |
April 3, 2012 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Fairfax, VA Z7
Posts: 524
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Never had any issues disturbing the root system of a Tomato, Pepper plant. In fact I usually take a small skewer stick and gently move the roots from the encased root ball of the cup and spread them out when I plant.\\
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April 4, 2012 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Germany 49°26"N 07°36"E
Posts: 5,041
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Anytime you remove a plant from a container you are going to have root shock. So whats the answer? Don't take the plant out of the pot and plant the pot. I've been doing that for the last 3 years using biodegradeable pots, Cow Pots and Dot Pots to be specific. When I repot my seedlings from the expanded peat pellets I start them in I put them in 4" Cow or Dot pots with Light Warrior potting medium.
The seedlings are grown in these pots till I'm ready to plant. Then I submerge the pots in my dip and plant, no muss no fuss a done deal and no transplant shock. Last year I boughtsix plants for my surrogate garden due to my change of residence. These plants were in traditional 4" plastic pots. After submerging the pots into my dip and allowing to drain I turned them upside down and allowed the plant/rootball to fall out of the plastic pot into my hand and planted. The plants had developed a substantial root system and very little aggregate was lost from the root ball. Growth and production from these plants was excellent with minimal disease problems. Naysen, the dip contains only Bacteria and Fungi and if you choose molasses which provides nutrients for the fungi/bacteria and the plant to a lesser degree. If anything the dip lessens transplant shock/stress and starts the inoculation process of the roots immediatly to form the symbiotic relationship between the endomycorrhiza and the plants roots. Before I started using the "Dip" method of innoculation I would sprinkle the myco's and Actinovate on the root ball and in the planting hole. It's easy to get overwhelmed by the products available these days especially when you go to the online hydro shops. Alot of these new products are due to the cannabis growers who have gotten plant growing down to a science from which there is alot of good information to be had at their growing sites. And they are growing organically as well as inorganically. BioBizz is a good example of plant growth products developed for the cannabis grower that are equally suitable for the tomato grower which I found out. As far as in ground application of the myco's just make up a solution the same as the dip and apply to each plant using a watering can. Ami
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Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘...Holy Crap .....What a ride!' |
January 18, 2013 | #10 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: SC
Posts: 64
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Quote:
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January 18, 2013 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 1,992
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I remember it-
http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=17570 |
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