Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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March 18, 2018 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 8
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Tips for Grafting
Hi there, this year I've decided to try and grow Tomatoes as professionally as possible, to put my horticultural training/education to the test, and I'm growing 15 different cultivars; Fandango F1, Gigantomo F1, Mountain Magic F1, Floridity F1, Rosella, St Pierre, Black Opal, Bloody Butcher, Essex Wonder, Indigo Beauty, White Tomesol, Hillbilly Potato Leaf, Ananas Noir, All Blacks and Stupice.
I'm toying with the idea of grafting, if it's not too late, and I was wondering if anyone knew of any recommended rootstock cultivars, I've come across Estamino F1 which is from a company I've ordered in the past. Also, I'm guessing it's too late, since I've already sown all my seeds, though with a couple of days between each batch due to ordering from different companies. In any case, any advice would be very much appreciated! Regards |
March 18, 2018 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: So Cal
Posts: 380
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Hi I can't help you with your grafting but I did want to say welcome aboard
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March 18, 2018 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 8
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March 18, 2018 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Branson MO
Posts: 441
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You can read through this thread to get some valuable information:
http://www.tomatoville.com/showthrea...light=grafting |
March 18, 2018 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Williamsburg VA Zone 7b
Posts: 1,110
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Hey Brother T:
I've grafted for the last couple years. I use RST-04-106 since it has broad disease resistance - important here in Virginia. We have a fairly long season in VA so I graft a little at a time. This year, I'm rooting the tops of the rootstock that are usually thrown away so I can get a second round of grafting. Jeff |
March 18, 2018 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Zone 5A, Poconos
Posts: 959
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March 19, 2018 | #7 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 8
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Quote:
Other rootstocks I've come across are submarine F1 and Maxifort. Also, that seems like a pretty smart idea to reduce waste and make the most of what you've got! Last edited by BrotherTarquin; March 19, 2018 at 04:45 AM. |
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March 19, 2018 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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As someone who has been grafting all the tomatoes I plant for the last several years I have to ask why are you wanting to graft? If you don't have some soil diseases or issues that make it necessary it is a good bit of effort and expense for what I can only say would be a limited advantage if any?
There are quite a few threads on grafting and different techniques that are used. I have developed my own method which works for me in my climate and conditions as have many others. If you do a search for grafting you will probably get more results than you will know what to do with. I personally like the RST-04-106-T root stock seed for most of my grafting but have also used Estamino, Multifort and Maxifort with success. I like to plant my root stock seed a week or so after my scion seed while others do the opposite and many plant them at the same time. Bill |
March 19, 2018 | #9 | ||
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 8
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Quote:
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March 19, 2018 | #10 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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Quote:
Bill |
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March 20, 2018 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: MN Zone4b
Posts: 289
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I've used both Maxifort and Estamino in an outdoor gardening space, and I find the Maxifort plants far more rambunctious than the Estamino grafts (which works better for my garden conditions--the Maxifort, that is).
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Bitterwort |
March 20, 2018 | #12 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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Quote:
Bill |
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