Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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July 10, 2017 | #16 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Texas Coastal Bend
Posts: 3,205
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I found this link on rooting a cutting in water first and before planting it out. I think I am going to try this method tomorrow.
http://mrbrownthumb.blogspot.com/201...-cuttings.html
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July 10, 2017 | #17 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Romania/Germany , z 4-6
Posts: 1,582
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I use the water method. I like to see when the roots have formed, and I don't like to see them droop (they should never droop in water).
Take a decent size sucker, but not too big. Remove any flowers if any, maybe prune some lower leaves. Cut it with a very sharp tool. Put in a jar with water in a room without sun. After about a week they should start forming roots. Leave 10 days or more to decent size roots, move in peat, harden off. Things that could go wrong: the base of the stem, where you cut it, starts to 'splinter', and goes upwards. Should have used a sharper knife. Recut it again to remove the splinters asap. After 7-10 days no roots have formed: replace water and try putting it in a somewhat cooler place if very hot. Last edited by zipcode; July 10, 2017 at 08:56 AM. |
July 10, 2017 | #18 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Texas Coastal Bend
Posts: 3,205
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Thanks zipcode, that sounds like a good plan to me. I took my cuttings today and already placed in water. Thought I would try the method of leaving them outside in the shade to see how they do. I have plenty of time to start over if that does not work.
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In the spring at the end of the day you should smell like dirt ~Margaret Atwood~ |
July 10, 2017 | #19 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: NewYork 5a
Posts: 2,303
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Both methods work. Sometimes convenience. Wonder if extreme heat outside would
cause trouble or bugs and slugs and critters may have access. Some I started in water indoors from Winter grown plants along with sweet potatoes and the root end of celery...snow still on the ground outside. A few in pots next to my seed start trays. It was nice inside to keep a daily eye on things. My garden assistant/student broke off two growing tips while planting...no worries as I just potted them up and into the barn in shade to recover. He was near in tears but a learning experience. (watching me zip along rather rough trenching, but I know from experience how much bend the plants can take at the soil level) Start more than you plan to use for insurance either way. |
July 10, 2017 | #20 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Texas Coastal Bend
Posts: 3,205
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Mmm, sweet potatoes. I will let you know how things go. I cut 5 from my cherry tomatoes. I haven't cut anything from my homestead heritage yet. I got sidetracked out there doing other things.
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In the spring at the end of the day you should smell like dirt ~Margaret Atwood~ |
July 10, 2017 | #21 |
Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Upstate NY, zone 4b/5a
Posts: 21,169
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I'm sure that one of the links above said where to take your cuttings,from, and that's where one branch meets another and within that arm pit,so to speak,is where you take your cuttings from.
If you root in water please remember that it takes longer to do it that way since the roots need to adapt first to a solid matrix, whether that is inground or containers,or whatever. So I get around that by starting cuttings in fresh artificial mix and that works great. I just remembered I had some pictures and found them in my faves http://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to...from-cuttings/ Step 1 shows the arm pit I was referring to, cut a section about - 6 inches long. From there I would definitely NOT place them in direct sunlight,ever, since transpiration will increase and you don't want that. And again,I would not put them in water for the reasons I gave above http://www.vegetablegardener.com/ite...-from-cuttings Another one above I like even better since it says to start with a solid matrix, not water,and says do not put them in direct sunlight at first. Carolyn
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Carolyn |
July 11, 2017 | #22 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Port St Lucie, Florida
Posts: 180
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no problem in starting from cuttings
I just stick them in the ground or soil where other tomatoes are and water them as I do other tomatoes, Voila a new plant.
Last edited by MarlynnMarcks; July 11, 2017 at 09:23 AM. Reason: spelling |
July 11, 2017 | #23 | |
Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Upstate NY, zone 4b/5a
Posts: 21,169
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Quote:
I jam, not a cutting,but whatever I can, next to the damaged plant, then build a small moat around that and keep it full of water until I see the plant growing. Carolyn
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Carolyn |
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July 11, 2017 | #24 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Texas Coastal Bend
Posts: 3,205
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I went out and checked the cuttings outside early 2:30 am this morning and they were nice and perky. I rechecked when I watered this morning and they were still nice and perky. They are in gallon jugs of water and tucked under the herbs and flowers for shade. There should not be any direct light on the two jugs at all. I'll continue to keep and eye on them and report back to the progress.
In the meantime I fed everything some Texas Tomato Food yesterday and see some new growth coming on already and will take more cuttings to bring indoors so I can do a comparison. Thanks Carolyn for the links, I had seen both of those as I was searching for instructions on how to root a cutting.
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In the spring at the end of the day you should smell like dirt ~Margaret Atwood~ |
July 11, 2017 | #25 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: SC Ohio(proctorville)
Posts: 192
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I have two red/yellow, a Big Beef and of course a big pink just set out in 20 gal totes two days ago after nurturing in Styrofoam cups for a week and all four have grabbed hold. Goody!
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July 11, 2017 | #26 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NC - zone 8a - heat zone 7
Posts: 4,909
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I have tried both ways, in water and in potting mix. I have concluded that the latter is better. The reason being that in the mix they won't need re potting up. Also in potting mix with light fertilizer they grow better.
But you have to keep them in dappled light, partial morning sun until the roots are established. After about 5-10 days you will see roots emerging from the drain hole. I use quart size pots so I can keep them in it longer. I have done about 10 for my fall planting.
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June 25, 2018 | #27 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Augusta area, Georgia, 8a/7b
Posts: 1,685
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Questions
Does it matter if the cutting is from a branch tip or from a sucker? I've been doing some internet reading this morning and there are advocates of both. Then I thought, "Duh"! Tomatovillians will know!"
Also,which do better for cuttings, determinate or indeterminate tomatoes? Again, I've read varying opinions. My goals: a) Have some quicker plants for fall. I just seeded a couple ten days ago but I want to play with cuttings. b) Experiment with the "10% bleach in the hole" treatment for bacterial wilt. I want to grow three plants and put each one in a treated hole. Thanks for any input! |
June 25, 2018 | #28 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: nc
Posts: 57
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June 25, 2018 | #29 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: NewYork 5a
Posts: 2,303
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A nice healthy sucker has always worked best for me. Not a pinched one but a nice
8-10ninch one that needs pruners/cutting. Always a few missed if you prune regularly. Expect about 70%. If you want 2-3, root 6-8. I did both water and soil recently and had 1 out of six in soil in dappled shade. 5 for 6 in water. Depends on your tending/attention, but the water method is on a shelf inside and always works best for me as I pay more mind,...fresh water every few days,....with other cuttings. I'm never in a hurry. |
June 26, 2018 | #30 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Augusta area, Georgia, 8a/7b
Posts: 1,685
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Thanks for the input! I'm always tinkering with stuff so I think I'll do one branch and one sucker cutting of each and see what happens.
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