Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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March 27, 2017 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Hicksville, New York
Posts: 503
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Any good blight resistant stains?
for the past two years I lost all of my tomatoes in early August to blight. Are there any resistant varieties out there?
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March 28, 2017 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NC - zone 8a - heat zone 7
Posts: 4,909
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I wanna know too !
But until I find them, this reminds me to fungicide my plants ASAP.
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Gardeneer Happy Gardening ! |
March 28, 2017 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Norway
Posts: 1,049
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Good OP varieties I've noted that are supposed to have some blight tolerance are:
Aunt Ruby's German Green Black Krim Old Brooks Prudens Purple Russian Rose Thessaloniki Two supposedly good hybrids are Jasper F1 and Mountain Magic F1. Steve Last edited by sjamesNorway; March 28, 2017 at 03:59 AM. |
March 28, 2017 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Near Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 1,940
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A few years ago Cornell released another blight resistant hybrid called Iron Lady (F1).
http://www.news.cornell.edu/stories/...es-out-blights Anyone tried it? |
March 28, 2017 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Hicksville, New York
Posts: 503
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I tried the fungicides last year and my plants still went South by August first
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March 28, 2017 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Southeastern PA
Posts: 1,420
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I live in PA and depending on the weather we will get Late Blight in August. Cool and damp nights will mean LB here. Last year was really dry in August so no LB.
I have tried Legend which was supposed to be resistant but was not impressed. My Big Beef plants seemed to be the strongest and kept producing the longest even after being infected with LB two years ago. I start spraying with Actinovate in July. Some people swear by it and others say it doesn't work. I think that it has worked well for me so I will keep using it. It is a biological preventative mixed in water so you need to apply it before LB appears and apply it weekly. It is also approved for organic gardens and I garden organically. |
March 28, 2017 | #7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: fortville,IN 46040
Posts: 140
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Yes Phila Gardener I tried Iorn Ladies 4 Yrs. ago. The were 3' plants loaded with medium round fruit. I didn't have to worry about late blights or anything else as the early blight wiped them out. I sent pictures to Cornell U. explaining I ordered the seeds from Totally Tomatoes,and the selling point was they were resistant to about all including early and late blights. The agreed I had the early blight and they don't claim the Iorn Lady to be resistant to anything, just tolerant and in my case it wasn't that either. I called 2 of the seed catalog companies and explained. Since then the claim is still there.
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March 28, 2017 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 3,194
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My sis gets Early Blight badly so I've done lots of research on this. Many with good "disease resistance" don't have EB resistance. Big Beef does not have EB resistance. However, I found the new & improved Big Beef, called Giant Beef, expensive at Henry Field's which is EB resistant. Here is a list of what somebody on the Internet says has some Early Blight resistance:
Aunt Ginny's Purple Black Krim Black Plum Cloudy Day Defiant PhR Gardeners Choice Giant Beef f1 Indigo Rose Iron Lady Jasper Juliet Legend Manalucie Matina Matt's Wild Cherry Mountain Magic f1 Mountain Merit Old Brooks Plum Regal f1 Tommy Toe Wisconsin 55 These are listed as having some Late Blight resistance: Black Krim Defiant PhR Indigo Apple Indigo Rose Iron Lady Italian Heirloom Jasper Legend Lemon Drop Lizzano Matt's Wild Cherry Mountain Magic f1 Mountain Merit Old Brooks Pink Beauty Plum Regal f1 Pruden's Purple Red Grape f1 Rose de Berne Surecrop Tigerella Tommy Toe These are listed as having unspecified blight resistance, who knows if it's early, late, etc.: Ceylon (anecdotal) Delicious(anecdotal) Double rich Fox cherry (anecdotal) Graham's Good Keeper New Big Dwarf Stakeless Thessaloniki Vinson Watts (anecdotal) Notes: Not all f1's are listed as such. If there is an f1 version & an OP version, only the f1 will have the disease resistance, in all probability. "Resistance" should not be construed to mean immunity. Welcome to a year's worth of Internet research. Good luck, Nan |
March 28, 2017 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: virginia
Posts: 733
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Eva Purple Ball
Always my best looking plants at the end of the season (ab, lb, ber, cr, cf) 78 days. (Indeterminate) [Late 1800s heirloom from the Black Forest region of Germany from Joe Bratka’s grandfather. Seed courtesy of Carolyn Male and Craig LeHoullier. Introduced 1994 by SESE.] Outstanding performer in hot, humid areas. Excellent resistance to diseases, including some resistance to late blight. One of the most blemish-free tomatoes we have grown, with a soft tender texture. Smooth, round, attractive pink-purple fruits weigh 5-7 oz. Fruits are easy to harvest, some dropping from the vine at peak ripeness, and easy to peel. A wonderful all-purpose tomato with excellent flavor http://www.southernexposure.com/eva-...-g-p-1107.html Just wanted to edit to say Eva Purple Ball grows better than any hybrid I have ever grown.A wonderful variety Last edited by seaeagle; March 28, 2017 at 12:24 PM. |
March 28, 2017 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Southeastern PA
Posts: 1,420
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I grow my plants in cages with a deep straw mulch under them to keep soil from splashing up onto the leaves. I also cut off all of the branches near the bottom of the plants. EB lives in the soil and I get some but very little of that and when I see it I prune off any leaves having that. I have never lost a plant to EB.
LB spores are carried by the wind and I can't protect from that except by using the Actinovate as a preventative like I mentioned. |
March 28, 2017 | #11 |
Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Upstate NY, zone 4b/5a
Posts: 21,169
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Blight is just a generic word that many use to describe foliaged iseases, so unless you know which specific diseases are causing your foliage diseases you don't know how to prevent nor treat any of them.
Different products are used to help prevent the common fungal diseases,but they don't usually work well for the bacterial diseases. And diseases caused by viruses or viroids or RKN's are a completely different story. And there are NO varieties that are totally resistant to any diseases, the operative word is tolerance. Carolyn
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Carolyn |
March 28, 2017 | #12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: virginia
Posts: 733
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tolerance - relative capacity of an organism to grow or thrive when subjected to an unfavorable environmental factor
resistance - the inherent ability of an organism to resist harmful influences (such as disease, toxic agents, or infection) Carolyn is right, the proper use of the term in this case would be tolerance |
March 28, 2017 | #13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Brownville, Ne
Posts: 3,282
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Over the years I have noticed that my disease tolerance has improved greatly by improving growing conditions rather than looking for disease resistant (or tolerant) varieties.
Practices such as a good mulching program, watering at the root system rather than overhead and timing of watering and taking care in handling plants help more than anything. The more careful I am, the less disease in growing the same varieties in the same garden. Amazing that I have had no real problems for the past five or six years. It is not that there are no problems, but they are so reduced that it seems I have no disease problem.
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there's two things money can't buy; true love and home grown tomatoes. |
March 28, 2017 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Minsk, Belarus, Eastern Europe (Zone 4a)
Posts: 2,278
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Praleska
De Barao (all the family with such name) Viva
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1 kg=2.2 lb , 1 m=39,37 in , 1 oz=28.35 g , 1 ft=30.48 cm , 1 lb= 0,4536 kg , 1 in=2.54 cm , 1 l = 0.26 gallon , 0 C=32 F Andrey a.k.a. TOMATODOR |
March 28, 2017 | #15 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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Late blight is common here when fall rains start (we rarely have any summer rain).
Last year every tomato plant in the 86 allotments where I garden had blight except for a self-seeded plant in my plot. I think it was Cuatomate, with currant-sized fruit. |
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