Tomato String for Lean and Lower

[BigVanVader]

Yeah, I mean there are a million ways to do it but I need something that is 100% not going to break and is easy to lower in 30 seconds or so. My issue last year was when I tried to lower the string by untying and and adding string the fruit kept dropping from heavy clusters. In the end we all will experiment and settle on what what works for our situation, but in my experience using PVC as supports and natural twine are not best practices for durability and efficiency. Your results may vary.

[b54red]

Originally Posted by BigVanVader

Yeah, I mean there are a million ways to do it but I need something that is 100% not going to break and is easy to lower in 30 seconds or so. My issue last year was when I tried to lower the string by untying and and adding string the fruit kept dropping from heavy clusters. In the end we all will experiment and settle on what what works for our situation, but in my experience using PVC as supports and natural twine are not best practices for durability and efficiency. Your results may vary.

I watched the video and it took longer to do those few plants than it does me to lower far more plants. Almost anything will hold the good square bale twine if you loop it over the top bar more than once unless it is an extra heavy vine. I used clips of various types early on but found them more trouble than they were worth. I also had a couple of my heavier plants put too much pressure on them a couple of times and had some collapse. Whenever I make a knot that gets drawn too tight I just cut the string right below the bar and add more. That seems to happen most often when I'm trying to make a line that is a bit short reach without adding more baling twine.

Big, I solved the problem of the extra heavy vines due to large clusters that are more problematic to add extra twine to. Just lower the plant til most or all of the weight is on the ground and then tie on the twine then gently lift it back with the longer string. I have started doing this on all but the lightest vines because of the arthritis in my hands and weak grip strength due to carpel tunnel.

The biggest time waster of this type operation is the time it takes to remove the lower foliage once the fruit below it is picked. It is messy and it takes a lot of time but it is well worth it as the season goes on. If you don't diseases and tangles will result and cause major problems. The biggest reason removing the lower foliage is so hard is it requires a lot of bending and stooping which seems to get more difficult each year.

Bill

[mikemansker]

I believe I can support the load with PVC. If you consider that there are two supports on each side, you're looking at a maximum of 24 inches between supports. If each section is supporting a plant that has 20 eight ounce tomatoes and the weight of the vine, you're only looking at a maximum of 15 pounds or so. Or 45 pounds for each side. I think 20 tomatoes is over the top for an estimate. I can't imagine that the PVC can't support the weight. I plan to use poly line of some sort with at least a 100 pound tensile strength. I am sometimes wrong, and, if you ask my wife, it's a common occurrence, but I believe this will work..

[Gardeneer]

With PVC, it depends on the span and diameter and the number of plants.

On the fence wire, I will do a test, with 2 of them running together. Then I will install a hook for each plant, such that it won't slip and wont move horizontally, something like an eye hook that the string passes through the eye. I might use a washer as the eye.
I will have to actually make and try it. What I will do is to get two landscaping timber , installed 12 ft apart. I think they come in 8ft length. Not too sure though.

[AKmark]

I am working on improving my system of the past, no more tying then untying, no more undoing clips, no more conduit for supports.
I am in the process of stringing up thousands of feet of airplane cable, all supports will clip onto that, those will be tomahooks, tomato spools, and tomato clips with string already wrapped on them. The string holds 22lbs, and the cable will hold 900lbs, and is also ran above the purlins for more support.
When the kids prune and lower plants, they simply have to let out some string and move the clip over, they will spend 30-45 seconds on each plant, or less, if they go at my speed. I have got to the point where time management is as important as plant management, and this method is the best I have seen.
I will also do this outside. I will put in 10 foot posts, the end posts will go 3 feet in the ground with a cripple on the inside of both outer posts. The middle posts will only need to be 8 feet one foot in the ground, the cable will be attached to the top, with tension adjusters on each end. I can buy the cable for 5 cents a foot, the other pieces are cheap too
I will post a pic when I get a chance

[BigVanVader]

Looking forward to the pics. Mark have you had any issues with the roller hooks at all? I considered trying some but have heard mixed things about them and (for me) they are somewhat expensive. I have also heard they can slip when plants are loaded.

[AKmark]

New to me, but I have friends who use them with no problems, I am always trying to save a buck, and finally had to realize that time is money so I bought a bunch.

[b54red]

Mark how high up are your horizontal supports in your greenhouse from which you will be hanging the lines?

I seriously thought of using the roller hooks with the spools for a while but it seems like they would be much more helpful when hung higher than my 7 ft tall horizontal bar. That is why I just use the quick tie method which has given me no real problems since I went to single stem pruning. When I was doing double or triple stems it was far more of a problem.

Bill

[AKmark]

Hey ya Bill, they are about 8 feet, but have about 30 feet of line, I think 7 feet may work just fine, that's about as high as we can reach a plants top anyway. You may have to move them a couple of times, but it only takes a few seconds, more time to prune, and inspect the plants.
The tomahooks are much cheaper and pretty fast too, but you have to buy the string and wind it on them, my winter projects. I tried the clip and unclip method, tying, untying too, I just have too many plants now, so I had to cave in and buy the set up to be efficient as I can. I will post a pic when I can, plants go in there March 1st.

BTW, you came up in a conversation today at our Plant Materials Center, the State AG center. I was talking to the disease scientist and I remembered you telling me that your diseases have diseases down there. He grinned. We felt relieved to not have to deal with them like you do, but that's how one becomes an expert at ground zero.
Mark

[b54red]

Originally Posted by AKmark

Hey ya Bill, they are about 8 feet, but have about 30 feet of line, I think 7 feet may work just fine, that's about as high as we can reach a plants top anyway. You may have to move them a couple of times, but it only takes a few seconds, more time to prune, and inspect the plants.
The tomahooks are much cheaper and pretty fast too, but you have to buy the string and wind it on them, my winter projects. I tried the clip and unclip method, tying, untying too, I just have too many plants now, so I had to cave in and buy the set up to be efficient as I can. I will post a pic when I can, plants go in there March 1st.

BTW, you came up in a conversation today at our Plant Materials Center, the State AG center. I was talking to the disease scientist and I remembered you telling me that your diseases have diseases down there. He grinned. We felt relieved to not have to deal with them like you do, but that's how one becomes an expert at ground zero.
Mark

Mark, I'm glad I don't have to deal with your cold weather and I am amazed at how well you grow tomatoes in your greenhouse. I'm too old and the blood doesn't pump as well anymore; but I sure would love to have easy access to fresh caught wild salmon. Fish is my next favorite food after tomatoes.

I usually grow between 80 and 100 plants each season but I don't put them all out at the same time. We don't need the massive quantities of tomatoes since all our boys are grown and moved away. Of course when they visit they do take a pile of them back with them. I really like having a staggered growing season and a continuous supply of fresh tomatoes which means I'm not usually dealing with more than 60 plants at any one time. They are all kept to single stem plants and are quite easy to lean and lower even with tying them it doesn't take long. I have never tried tomahooks and might get a few and give them a try just to see if it is easier. I don't think the spools would work as well with my set up.

I have already started my first batch of seeds for spring grafting while my last two beds of tomato plants were pulled up about the same time by one of my sons visiting for Christmas. I still have a few green ones ripening on the porch so I may get a few more to eat. I would love to start off the new year with a homegrown tomato even if they don't taste near as good as those first ones in the spring; but they sure taste better than those things in the grocery store.

Bill

[Cole_Robbie]

Do you sell any plants, Bill? I'm sure your grafted plants would fetch a premium price, especially with your firsthand experience about growing tomatoes in your area to pass along to customers.

[AKmark]

Bill, you know tomato seeds and Copper River Red Salmon could be exchanged. LOL I will be right next door to you in March, there is a greenhouse tomato course going on in Mississippi, I think I am going to go too.
I agree with Cole, I think your grafted plants would fetch a premium price.

[b54red]

Originally Posted by Cole_Robbie

Do you sell any plants, Bill? I'm sure your grafted plants would fetch a premium price, especially with your firsthand experience about growing tomatoes in your area to pass along to customers.

I only graft for myself and a few friends. I have a few health issues that make even grafting difficult so I don't need to attempt to do more than necessary. If I have any leftover after that I usually give them away. Most people around here only want one thing a red round tomato whether it has any taste or not. I'm too old to make the effort to teach them the error of their ways.

Bill

[Gardeneer]

ITS ABOUT TIME !

As I have posted before , I want to experiment with STRINGING this year.
I just installed my system . Two post at 18F span and the top about 6 1/2 - 7 ft. At 5'8", I can reach the line comfortably without a need for step ladder.
I ran electric fencing wire ( strong , galvanized ) , with an inline tensioner. I will post pictures later.
Questions :

1) How many pants should I have in the row ?
2) How much room/space I will need in the front for walking/ pruning. lowering...etc ? Is 2 ft wide walkway enough ?
3) How many clips would I need ?. ( ~~ 12 plants ??)

Yeau

[Gardeneer]

I figure that there aren't very many gardeners using "String N Layer" as tomato support. Bill and BVV are the exception. I have come to know that this method is widely used in greenhouse or high tunnel.

IDEAS:
since I am using steel wire ( to hang the strings from it ) I have some ideas:

1- Use "S" hooks ( close the eyes after installing. This should be easier to control the string/twine. Me thinks.
2- Incorporate TWO drop lines, instead of one, forget the clips. One line is twisted clockwise around the stem, and the other opposite. This way the stem is embraced by the twines. And it cannot come off.

Want To Know: How to manage the extra twine up there !!!