How to save potato seeds?

WVTomatoMan · June 28, 2010

What is the preferred method of saving potato seeds (TPS not tubers)?

Here's what I did last year:
After the plants died back I collected the berries. Then I let them set a while in the pantry in my basement until they were soft and/or brownish. I halved them and pushed out the seed with my thumb into a strainer. I ran fairly warm water over them at fairly high pressure in order to remove the seed from the gel. I assumed the gel was a germination inhibitor like tomatoes. Then I let the seeds dry on a paper plate.

Is this method okay? I've also heard of putting the berries in a blender with water. Blend. Then allow to ferment. Remove the gunk and wash. Basically like the fermintation method used when saving tomato seed. Does anyone do it this way? Did it work well? Are there other ways?

Once again I have a fairly high number of potato berries. I think it is because I live in a rural area that has lots of sweat bees. Of course several of the flower clusters have no potato berries. But, some clusters have 3 and 4 berries.

Thanks,
Randy

GunnarSK · June 28, 2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by WVTomatoMan

What is the preferred method of saving potato seeds (TPS not tubers)?

Is this method okay? I've also heard of putting the berries in a blender with water. Blend. Then allow to ferment. Remove the gunk and wash. Basically like the fermintation method used when saving tomato seed. Does anyone do it this way? Did it work well? Are there other ways?

Once again I have a fairly high number of potato berries. I think it is because I live in a rural area that has lots of sweat bees. Of course several of the flower clusters have no potato berries. But, some clusters have 3 and 4 berries.

Thanks,
Randy

If I get potato berries this year (either from Durgan's Russian Blue F2s or my store bought Cream Potatoes), I'll do more or less the same, and I don't see any substantial difference between the two methods you mention (with or without blending). Of course I don't have a lot of personal experience, besides the obvious (beans and peas) I only saved seeds from tomatoes, but everything is a learning experience, right?

wmontanez · June 28, 2010

In this thread Tom Wagner explains more detailed how to save seeds, I did use the fermentation method last year with about 10 berries or so... cleaned and dried them, stored them in the refrigerator for 3 months or so before sowing then in January.Germination rates were from 6 days to 20+days.

http://tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=6761

TZ-OH6 · June 28, 2010

I just had a discussion with Tom about the details on another forum a couple of days ago, and he is pretty quick and loose with his seed processing with TSP (trisodium phosphate) and bleach because he has so many seeds to process under varying conditions so it is hard to find any one standard. It ranges from a scrub with the Trisodium phosphate powder to a 10% solution for 15-20 minutes followed by a 10%-20% bleach rinse (quick dip to about 5 min bath) followed by 20 minutes in a hot water bath at 120F for best disease killing power.

TSP is critical for cleaning seeds and getting rid of germination inhibitors, bleach sterilizes the seed, hot water kills virus, and simply aging seed for a full year or more kills off most diseases.

Fermenting alone will give you lower germination the next spring, and higher chance of disease than using TSP.

The longer the TSP has to soak on the berries the better (up to 20 minutes.

Farmette · June 28, 2010

I have read about using Oxy Clean for tomato seeds...what about using it for potatoes?

**Tom Wagner** · June 28, 2010

Thanks, TZ, for your comments about my cleaning process. I don't want to explain myself at this time; too many things to get to the field.

I have used Oxy Clean to clean potato seed. It works to some degree, but I always resort back to the TSP because I know it works. I just feel better about the cleaning action of TSP for ridding TMV, getting all the oils, waxes, inhibitors off the seed quickly and more.

I wish someone could show why fermention may not rid all pathogens from the seed. If you Google it and report back, I would appreciate that. Exactly: What does fermentation not control?

I just don't see folks fermenting a single potato berry, Many of my potato berries go into mush before I get the seed extracted but I don't call that fermentation.

GunnarSK · July 5, 2010

Quote:

Originally Posted by GunnarSK

If I get potato berries this year (either from Durgan's Russian Blue F2s or my store bought Cream Potatoes), I'll do more or less the same

After the first of my Cream Poatoes finished flowering, they dropped the blooms without berry set, leaving only naked stalks. I will still be looking for berries, also in the Russian Blue F2s from Durgan's TPS. Maybe I'll have to settle for "conventional" seed potatoes this year, but next spring I'll sow some of Tom Wagner's TPS, which were selected for berry set unlike store bought ones.

**Tom Wagner** · July 5, 2010

http://www.plantpath.wisc.edu/wivegdis/pdf/veg%20newsletter%207.pdf

Quote:

Warm weather conditions are going to promote fruit set on potato plants. The potato fruit looks like a small tomato or
large nightshade berry as you would expect from plants within the same family. Don’t eat the fruit as they are poisonous
to just about every animal outside of the Colorado potato beetle. The cost of the berries is in lost carbohydrates due to
allocation to the fruit. True potato seed is fertile and will grow, but many plants won’t produce tubers and it will take 2
generations to grow a reasonable crop from true seed.

The cost of the berries is in lost carbohydrates due to
allocation to the fruit......???

This kind of statement is unfounded but has been used in discriminant selection pressure against berry makers. Like an "Old Wive's Tale" growers have been ignoring these varieties for generations. My potato lines are bringing back the berry production for the future generations of potato aficionados

goodwin · July 5, 2010

hi everyone -

Tom - the Nordic October you sent me in the sampler is setting some berries. Take a look!

Talonstorm · July 8, 2010

How long should you leave the berries on the plant? I have some berries that are nickle sized on my German Butterball potato plant and some that are just larger than green peas on my All Blue potato plants. See pictures below. Should I let the berries get softer before I remove them? I'd like to try saving some true potato seed to try planting next season. How do I know if the berries from these plants are actually going to contain viable seed? Thanks!

All Blue:

German Butterball:

Medbury Gardens · July 8, 2010

They have a long way to go yet before they are ready Talonstorm,like a tomato they will change to a darker purple/green colour.

June 28, 2010	#1
WVTomatoMan Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: West Virginia - Zone 6 Posts: 594	How to save potato seeds? What is the preferred method of saving potato seeds (TPS not tubers)? Here's what I did last year: After the plants died back I collected the berries. Then I let them set a while in the pantry in my basement until they were soft and/or brownish. I halved them and pushed out the seed with my thumb into a strainer. I ran fairly warm water over them at fairly high pressure in order to remove the seed from the gel. I assumed the gel was a germination inhibitor like tomatoes. Then I let the seeds dry on a paper plate. Is this method okay? I've also heard of putting the berries in a blender with water. Blend. Then allow to ferment. Remove the gunk and wash. Basically like the fermintation method used when saving tomato seed. Does anyone do it this way? Did it work well? Are there other ways? Once again I have a fairly high number of potato berries. I think it is because I live in a rural area that has lots of sweat bees. Of course several of the flower clusters have no potato berries. But, some clusters have 3 and 4 berries. Thanks, Randy

June 28, 2010	#3
wmontanez Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: MA Posts: 776	In this thread Tom Wagner explains more detailed how to save seeds, I did use the fermentation method last year with about 10 berries or so... cleaned and dried them, stored them in the refrigerator for 3 months or so before sowing then in January.Germination rates were from 6 days to 20+days. http://tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=6761 __________________ Wendy

June 28, 2010	#4
TZ-OH6 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Mid-Ohio Posts: 847	I just had a discussion with Tom about the details on another forum a couple of days ago, and he is pretty quick and loose with his seed processing with TSP (trisodium phosphate) and bleach because he has so many seeds to process under varying conditions so it is hard to find any one standard. It ranges from a scrub with the Trisodium phosphate powder to a 10% solution for 15-20 minutes followed by a 10%-20% bleach rinse (quick dip to about 5 min bath) followed by 20 minutes in a hot water bath at 120F for best disease killing power. TSP is critical for cleaning seeds and getting rid of germination inhibitors, bleach sterilizes the seed, hot water kills virus, and simply aging seed for a full year or more kills off most diseases. Fermenting alone will give you lower germination the next spring, and higher chance of disease than using TSP. The longer the TSP has to soak on the berries the better (up to 20 minutes.

June 28, 2010	#5
Farmette Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2009 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 985	I have read about using Oxy Clean for tomato seeds...what about using it for potatoes?

June 28, 2010	#6
Tom Wagner Crosstalk™ Forum Moderator Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: 8407 18th Ave West 7-203 Everett, Washington 98204 Posts: 1,157	Thanks, TZ, for your comments about my cleaning process. I don't want to explain myself at this time; too many things to get to the field. I have used Oxy Clean to clean potato seed. It works to some degree, but I always resort back to the TSP because I know it works. I just feel better about the cleaning action of TSP for ridding TMV, getting all the oils, waxes, inhibitors off the seed quickly and more. I wish someone could show why fermention may not rid all pathogens from the seed. If you Google it and report back, I would appreciate that. Exactly: What does fermentation not control? I just don't see folks fermenting a single potato berry, Many of my potato berries go into mush before I get the seed extracted but I don't call that fermentation.

July 8, 2010	#10
Talonstorm Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Northeastern PA, USA Posts: 14	How long should you leave the berries on the plant? I have some berries that are nickle sized on my German Butterball potato plant and some that are just larger than green peas on my All Blue potato plants. See pictures below. Should I let the berries get softer before I remove them? I'd like to try saving some true potato seed to try planting next season. How do I know if the berries from these plants are actually going to contain viable seed? Thanks! All Blue: German Butterball:

July 8, 2010	#11
Medbury Gardens Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Medbury, New Zealand Posts: 1,881	They have a long way to go yet before they are ready Talonstorm,like a tomato they will change to a darker purple/green colour.