Forum area for discussing hybridizing tomatoes in technical terms and information pertinent to trait/variety specific long-term (1+ years) growout projects.
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September 1, 2010 | #31 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,027
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Several "heat tolerant" varieties I've tried, a few mentioned in this thread - but every single one of them mentioned will eventually poop out severely in a typical Texas summer.
The most heat tolerant variety I've ever grown is Sweet Quartz F1, hands down. Second place might be Sungold, or perhaps Sweet Million (also both cherry type hybrids.) However, even those two eventually experience a major drop off in both production and size of fruits when it gets and stays really hot here. Another one (besides Sweet Quartz) that will set like crazy in extreme heat is Coyote, but I just don't care for the taste at all. Purple Haze F1 is worth an honorable mention. I love the flavor, and it does slow down a bit in my summers, but it will at least continue to produce a little if I can keep the plants healthy. I happened upon an F2 PH this year that gave me similar results, both for taste and for production in very hot and humid weather. |
September 1, 2010 | #32 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Central Arkansas
Posts: 190
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As they say, it's not the heat it's the humidity. So I'm betting Suze and Chara that yalls choices will work for me too. Would either of you like to try the Solarset F1. I would be glad to send some seeds.
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September 1, 2010 | #33 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Zone 4 Lake Minnetonka, MN
Posts: 967
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Tried Solar Set last year and was not impressed with the flavor production was ok it was grown in a 20 inch pot on my upper deck that gets into the 100+ daily in the summer here.
Craig |
September 1, 2010 | #34 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Posts: 46
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Thank you, original, for the offer! Very nice of you!
I sure would like a few of your seeds - only if you take a few of mine. I will send you a PM shortly. |
September 2, 2010 | #35 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Pt. Charlotte fl
Posts: 329
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I think I have one you all might just love! I am growing it right now when nothing else would ever have a chance. I live in Southwest Florida and the humidity can be cut with a knife at any time of day from July to Sept. I have two solarfire tom. that are putting out fruit with no disease problems whatsoever. Sioux could not live in the summer here! Heatwave did ok many years back.
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October 13, 2010 | #36 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Miami, FL.
Posts: 442
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I have some Everglades seed started. I wonder what to try to cross it with. I am in Miami, close to the swamps of the Everglades. I wonder what crossing Everglades with Stick would do?
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October 14, 2010 | #37 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
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Quote:
fruits from sunburn. Something to particularly watch out for in your climate.
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October 14, 2010 | #38 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Miami, FL.
Posts: 442
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What I would be looking for from stick is not the leaf habit, but the stem habit.
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October 14, 2010 | #39 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Fairfax, VA Z7
Posts: 524
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If your going to cross Everglades with Stick then plant the resulting seeds. I believe that the plant would benefit from growing in a area with a shade cloth to protect the fruit.
What would you then do with the seeds from Stick Cross? George |
October 14, 2010 | #40 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Miami, FL.
Posts: 442
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I'd like to come up with something with standard leaves that would resemble a small tree.
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October 14, 2010 | #41 | |
Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Upstate NY, zone 4b/5a
Posts: 21,169
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Quote:
Several years ago I was communicating with a hybridizer associated with Petoseeds who was stationed in FL. His comment was that it's not just the heat stability of the pollen that's important but also that the high sustained humidity present in many areas of FL that clumps the pollen and makes it far less effective in being able to be shed from the anthers as well as any that are shed being able to fertilize the ovules in the tomato ovary. So timing of planting for both Spring and Fall crops is really crucial, aside from any so called heat tolerant varities that are touted as such. As I think you know from the threads at GW as well as here, that Everglades one is nothing special, just a red currant that grows wild down there . Someone named that one Wild Everglades, still makes money off it as you also know, and there plenty of other wild red currants that grow in FL and all along the Gulf Coast down into Mexico b'c it was the Spanish who spread them there as they explored, to them, the new area of what we know as the US. Somehow I'm not seeing the advantage of a Stick X red currant cross, so how about sharing you thoughts on that one in a bit more detail.
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October 14, 2010 | #42 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Miami, FL.
Posts: 442
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It was actually just a thought. I'd like to have a plant that resembles a small tree that would stand on its own, yet still produce fruit.
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October 14, 2010 | #43 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: PNW
Posts: 4,743
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Ah, like a tree rose. Very small cherry sized fruit would not
weigh enough to pull it over. Even better for that might be something like a "dwarf currant", ie a tree-type dwarf type plant, slow growing, with thick stems and tiny cherry sized fruit.
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