Forum area for discussing hybridizing tomatoes in technical terms and information pertinent to trait/variety specific long-term (1+ years) growout projects.
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July 21, 2015 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Honey Brook, PA Zone 6b
Posts: 399
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My Pollination Method
Not claiming this is superior to anyone else's methods (particularly given my recent whine about my success this year), but I tried to take a series of photos (some did not come out as well as I would have liked), to show how I go about it. If someone wants to say how they do it differently that would be welcome. I thought it also might help those new to the process.
Well it starts with the flower I'm going to use as a male (you can simply try to vibrate a flower over a lens, but I usually harvest at least one flower for 'processing' Mature flower collected: FlowerForCollectingPollen.jpg I take this flower inside and strip it to its anther cone: PollenDonorAnther.jpg The anther is removed and placed in a dish to dry over night (helps release the pollen). The anther usually breaks apart, but that's ok -- I make sure the variety is labeled on the dish: AntherDryingoverNight.jpg The next day, I use tweezers to pick up the anther/anther pieces. I take a toothpick [not shown] and try to tap the anther piece to release pollen onto a sunglasses lens, If tapping doesn't work, I scrap the toothpick over the inside of the anther to try to extract pollen: TransferPollentoLens.jpg I then store the pollen on the lens in a container with a drying agent in the container. Transfer the label to the container. I place a lid on the container and place it in the refrigerator: PolleninStorage.jpg When you're ready to pollinate, take the container out and let it warm up gradually. If you remove the lens immediately, you will get condensation on the lens and damage the pollen. Choose your flower to pollinate. Opalka and Shannon (both wispy/droopy folliage types have very long sepals, which makes judging the readiness of the flower a little more difficult). In retrospect this blossom is a little young: BlossomChosen.jpg Cut/strip the sepals and petals off the blossom. You now are down to the anther cone. Usually at this point I remove one section of the anther cone (shown) by slipping my knife under it to take it off -- it makes it much easier to remove the rest of anther: FlowerStrippedtoAnther.jpg Finish removing the anther cone: AntherConeRemoved.jpg Apply pollen from the lens to the pistil: ApplyingPollen.jpg Put a label on the blossom: FlowerLabeled.jpg Record the cross on paper: RecordedCrosses.jpg |
July 21, 2015 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Near Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 1,940
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Nice images! Took me a minute to realize those are sunglass lenses you use to collect and handle the pollen!
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September 2, 2015 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Lancaster, Pennsylvania
Posts: 7
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These images are helpful. I'm a fellow gardener from Lancaster county and am just starting into the world of tomato crosses. At what point in the summer do you stop making crosses? I'm assuming there is point at which it's not worth it to make a cross because the tomato won't set fruit in time, am I right in that assumption?
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September 2, 2015 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: AL
Posts: 1,993
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Just seeing this thread. Great pics. Very helpful indeed. Thanks for sharing your method and taking time to post pics. Using a sunglass lens is a great idea. Sure would make it easier to see pollen. What type of drying agent do you use? You don't just let your pollen dry normally?
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September 9, 2015 | #5 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Honey Brook, PA Zone 6b
Posts: 399
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Quote:
Last edited by crmauch; September 9, 2015 at 02:25 PM. Reason: correcting text |
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September 9, 2015 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Honey Brook, PA Zone 6b
Posts: 399
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Duplicate message. Deleted Text.
Last edited by crmauch; September 10, 2015 at 04:39 PM. |
September 9, 2015 | #7 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Honey Brook, PA Zone 6b
Posts: 399
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Quote:
I do dry them normally overnight/24 hours. But to extend the pollen's viability, I try to keep it in the refrigerator. To prevent moisture build up in there, I use the drying capsules from pill bottles. Be sure when you take them out, let the container warm up a bit before opening it (otherwise you'll get condensation.) Last edited by crmauch; September 10, 2015 at 04:37 PM. |
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January 11, 2016 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: N.C.
Posts: 1,819
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Nice thread. Will try this season.
Greg |
January 11, 2016 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Southern WI
Posts: 2,742
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Just saw this now, thank you for posting! I found the pictures to be very helpful--nice and big!
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January 12, 2016 | #10 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Carmel, IN
Posts: 76
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Quote:
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January 13, 2016 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Newfoundland, Canada
Posts: 6,793
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It makes sense to do your crosses early if you can, but I can't seem to live with a cut off date. At the end of season, I find myself admiring the plants that are still standing - whether by my choice or by being most resistant to the various tomato plagues. So even though my season is functionally over by October 10 - not enough hours of sun in my greenhouse by then - it's becoming a habit to do last minute crosses as late as mid september. Agonize over the slow progress or revel in every sign of growth until finally either the branch or the fruit has to be brought indoors, and slowly finish ripening usually ending in a paper bag.
Some of the late crosses I've only gotten a few seeds, but what the hey, you only need one F1 plant to get lots of F2 seeds. I was saving seeds from late crosses this year, in November. |
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