Compost Tea Brewing

[mdvpc]

I have been making compost for the first time. I started some compost tea this a.m., but it quickly foamed a lot with the air bubbler and the bubbles are going over the bucket top. I put some organic molasses in also. I am using a 5 gallon pail.

Does this also happen to you folks? If not, what am I doing wrong?

[RJ_Hythloday]

Mine doesn't usually froth until after a day or so, shouldn't be a problem though.

[beeman]

Originally Posted by mdvpc

I have been making compost for the first time. I started some compost tea this a.m., but it quickly foamed a lot with the air bubbler and the bubbles are going over the bucket top. I put some organic molasses in also. I am using a 5 gallon pail.
Does this also happen to you folks? If not, what am I doing wrong?

Too much Molasses? Care to share the recipe, perhaps that would help us decide.
Mine does froth, but not that much ever, even 24 hours later.

[mdvpc]

I am brewing in my greenhouse, but it wasnt too warm, so thats not it. I used one ounce of molasses, and six big scoops of compost in about 4 gallons of water.

[dice]

From a quick www search on '"compost tea" foaming',
the general consensus was that foam is good, that it
indicates a lot of microbial activity. Someone opined
that adding some fish emulsion will moderate the foaming
("oil in the fish breaks the surface tension of the bubbles").

(Maybe drain off a couple of inches of liquid and water a plant
with it.)

[mdvpc]

I dumped the tea I started and started another. I think I had too much molasses-I put a little less than a tablespoon in this batch. Its foaming, but not nearly as much. Thanks to everyone for chiming in.

[RJ_Hythloday]

I usually start with out molasses and then add about 2 or 3 tables spoons after an hours or two. Then another glug of molasses the next morning. As for the green house, 75f is supposed to be the max temp for beneficial fungi to stay alive and grow. Beneficial bacteria is not as susceptible to heat.

[huxter09]

Given any thought to weed tea .I put all my invasive creeping grasses ,dandelions ,stinging nettles and other rubbishy weeds in a trash can ,fill it with water ,add some fish emulsion ,and leave it till it stinks to high heaven .Then I use a 10% solution as a watering tonic or a foliar spray ---works wonders !

[mdvpc]

Alls well that ends well. I brewed for 24 hours, it foamed, but not too bad. Did a soil trench on all the tomatoes, cutting lettuces, herbs, chard, kale, spinach, garlic. Beautiful deep rich looking tea.

[beeman]

Originally Posted by mdvpc

I dumped the tea I started and started another. I think I had too much molasses-I put a little less than a tablespoon in this batch. Its foaming, but not nearly as much. Thanks to everyone for chiming in.

From my information, via the Soilfood Web, using compost as a medium, you don't need molasses!
Tea from Compost will be predominately fungal, so doesn't need molasses, rather fish hydrolysate (sp?). Whereas tea from Vermi-castings will be predominately bacterial, and does need molasses.
I am still trying to find out if tea made from both at the same time is such a good idea.

[mdvpc]

Bee:

Here is the link for Elaine Ingram's article that I used as my guide. She says 1 oz of molasses. Can you post the link you read about not using molasses?

[beeman]

Originally Posted by mdvpc

Bee:Here is the link for Elaine Ingram's article that I used as my guide. She says 1 oz of molasses. Can you post the link you read about not using molasses?

Sorry, no can do. The information came from an email to me direct from Elaine, I can only quote what she wrote.
Quote:-
First, exit the molasses from the tea, unless you have soil that won't grow a plant at all.
What you are likely lacking in your soil is fungi, not bacteria. Molasses at low concentrations grows bacteria.
For Fusarium and / or Vert outbreaks (outbreaks, not for preventative use!!!!!), add a few spores of Trichoderma at the start of your tea brew. No molasses in this brew, please! Then, you MUST get the beneficial fungi back into your soil, and make sure all thatch, not-decomposing plant material in and on the soil gets properly decomposed in an AEROBIC way. Aerobic conditions select for the beneficials, compacted conditions select for the bad guys.
Root-feeding nematodes are attacked and consumed by thousands of species of fungi - get the fungal component back into your soil. you would also want to get mycorrhizal fungi on the roots of your vegies and row crops and perennials - except for your brassica.
End Quote.
I was writing to her pleading help with my 'Wilt' problems. It has improved my results this year and I'm hopeful from this point on.

Just in passing, there was no link in your post.

[mdvpc]

Bee-dont know what happened to the link. Here it is:

http://www.finegardening.com/how-to/...mpost-tea.aspx

[creister]

Michael,

I pretty much follow the instructions on Bruce Deuly's website. He studied with Dr. Ingram. He says about 1/2 ounce per gallon on the molasses. With Temps above 80, I reduce that by 1/2, or don't add any at all. Even with out molasses, still get good tea.

My basic recipe is as follows (for 4 gallons of water):

2oz. molasses
2oz. seaweed
2oz. fish fertilizer
2oz. apple cider vinegar

I have also added 2tbsp. of epsom salt
alfalfa meal
corn meal
worm castings
liquid humate (2oz)

I also bubble my water if it is from the tap for a day before using it. As far as foaming, sometimes I get quite a bit, sometimes none at all, and I am not sure why. I go by the smell. By the time it is done, usually a fruity sort of smell. If your tea doesn't smell rotten, it's probably okay.

[mdvpc]

Creister-I have read about the apple cider vinegar-that its gives you a lot of micros-is that why you use it?

Do you put any compost in?

I was in Abilene a few months ago-too bad I didnt realize you were there-I would have called you to share a cup of coffee or tea!