Stumped

[beefyboy]

Also mylar, whitefly hate silver, and mylar should really help in prevention as well. I also use the sticky whitefly traps and make my own which last longer without the rediculous cost.

[duajones]

How do you use this imidicloprid?

[beefyboy]

If thats ia mineral defiency, i will eat my hat! Classic virus i am sure. Imidicloprid will become your buddy. Lol
Get fusion power to comment on it!

[beefyboy]

There are different strengths so go by directions given. I just bought a new bottle at 16 times the strength of last one i had so will let you know info this week. I have a close friend in the nursery business and he is delivering it to me in next few days.

[checkerkitty]

Originally Posted by beefyboy

Also mylar, whitefly hate silver, and mylar should really help in prevention as well. I also use the sticky whitefly traps and make my own which last longer without the rediculous cost.

How do you make your traps? Also how do you use the mylar? I'm imagining strips hanging off the cage but I could be way off base.

[beefyboy]

sorry I went to sleep and missed your last question Christy. Traps I make from any composite plastic that is waterproof and paint them yellow. Then I drill holes in them to tie them up. put petroleum jelly on them after there hung. The mylar comes in 4 ft. wide by as many ft. long as you want and is similar to tin foil but much stronger. I use the 2.0 mil thickness since it is outdoors and it is going against a row of cow panels which are doubled to a height of 100 inches. On top of this is a shade structure measuring 10ft. wide by 32 ft. long. If you are putting this on to cages, you will have to cut the mylar to fit the cage. Remember wind resistance and other factors have to be considered when doing this but worth experimenting with for the end results should be an increase in yield, and decrease in predator problems.

[beefyboy]

best to tape mylar to a wall or flat surface and place tomato plant and cage up against it for refractured light into the whole plant. This way the sun will bounce off the mylar and on to the whole plant.

[b54red]

Originally Posted by duajones

I have given it to all my plants

Have you seen any improvement yet or any further decline?

[duajones]

Originally Posted by b54red

Have you seen any improvement yet or any further decline?

Really hard to tell at this point. I have given each plant a little over the past two days. 2tsp per gallon of water dispersed amongst 10 plants.
I am hopeful.

[beefyboy]

once you get a virus it can spread and usually does within 30 seconds to other plants that have nothing protecting them. Unfortunately I was building my outdoor support system for my hydro so could not get out mylar on time or anything else for that matter. I have many with signs of virus and am not pulling them for I am now experimenting with imidicloprid and its known ability to keep whitefly and aphids at bay so this Oct. will be a disease free year for the most part. If I were growing in the ground I would be using loads of worm castings to treat them also for the whitefly hates the taste of a plant that has consumed the castings. I have not done any personal experiments with that but have some good documentation on it. My mylar runs the full course of my cattle panels (2 rows 10 ft. high x 32ft. long) wall on both sides facing each other 6 ft apart so it is a wall of reflection hitting my plants and creating quite a display of reflections.

[beefyboy]

I do not see any whitefly near my plants and all is going perfectly well.

[duajones]

came home today to find that there are more whiteflies than I thought. Used a soap spray but I am still afraid it is too late.

[Heritage]

Originally Posted by duajones

How do you use this imidicloprid?

Personally, I would never use the systemic pesticide imidiclopid on any crop I was going to eat. In addition to it's long term systemic presence, it is also one of the suspects responsible for the recent honeybee colony decline. If you DO decide to use imidicloprid please follow the directions exactly, and especially observe the 'days to harvest' number for tomatoes.

Also, since imidicloprid is a systemic, it doesn't do anything to control virus if the insect vector flies/blows in from an infected weed host. (very common source of virus) The yellow sticky traps will be more effective for this.

Steve

[coastal bend]

I tried the insecticidal soap,it killed what was on the plant but the next day more were back..I use the the Ortho Flower,Fruit and Vegetable insect spray and it will keep the whitefly out for 6 to 7 days. IT does a good job on aphid and other insects.I seen to have the problem when the plants are young. I have not used it after the toms started blooming. I have to start using Spinsoad through the spring because of the worm pressure I have out here. It also helps on other pests. I doubt that I could raise tomatoes with out Spinsod in my area.

[beefyboy]

will agree with following directions on any systemic Steve, thats a given. But you are in San Diego, and your not in Florida where its a world of difference. Sticky traps help but not going to get it done. I have had as many as 20 at one time and all it takes is one whitefly to wipe you out . I am still loaded with pollenators out here, and the snall wasp is our best in this area. I will look more into your bee research when i get some time for i really hate to use anything at all but experience tells me there are no options if i want tonatoes.