Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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March 11, 2012 | #16 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: oklahoma
Posts: 4
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Thank you everyone for your wonderful and thoughtful replies! I am not an organic gardener (yes, I know, don't throw anything at me, ok?) so I don't worry too much about bugs.
I am going to give it a go and let it sprawl and see what happens. |
March 11, 2012 | #17 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Rock Hill, SC
Posts: 5,346
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I use BT, but dense foliage makes it hard to prevent them. One of the many reasons I doubt I'll ever sprawl tomatoes.
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March 11, 2012 | #18 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Northern Illinois ZONE 5a...wait now 5b
Posts: 906
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Quote:
All I can do is speak for myself.....last year I had smaller cages and stakes on my determinates. I had never grown them before. I'm kind of new at all this too.......been growing about 5 years now. It was a great summer and the plants overgrew everything and then flipped over and were lying on the ground. Then I had trouble with the bugs on the ones lying on the ground. You have to try what you think is best and then stick with it if it works.
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Brian |
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March 14, 2012 | #19 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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I stake, cage, or weave all of my tomato plants. I've tried just about every method over the years including sprawling. I simply appreciate the ease of maintenance provided by getting the plants off the ground. It also allows me to use the area below the tomato plants to grow other things like onions, squash, and lettuce while the tomato plants are growing skyward. I think I have the same weather in North Texas you have in Oklahoma, but I had a great garden season last year even with the heat and drought.
Another reason I don't let my tomato plants sprawl is the fact that copperhead snakes appreciate the shade of sprawling plants in the mid day heat. With the plants growing vertically, I can see every where I want to put my hands before I stick them in. Ted |
March 14, 2012 | #20 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Laurinburg, North Carolina, zone 7
Posts: 3,207
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One thing about letting them sprawl is that they can start roots along the vines, which is good in heat and drought.
I had a determinate last year start a whole new plant from a sprawling branch. Ended up with a second harvest! |
March 15, 2012 | #21 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: oklahoma
Posts: 4
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Ted - I think you would be surprised how different it is up here in Oklahoma City. We sit in a depression of sort and we have a different last frost date than people even 100 miles south of us, or Tulsa, which is an hour drive. It is just how our climate works.
I think I don't want to chance it and I will stake them. I am determined this year to get me some 'maters and enough to make a sauce! LOL (I normally don't get that many! I am such a noob..) |
March 21, 2012 | #22 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: San Diego Coastal - Zone 10b
Posts: 204
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ezzirah,
Personally I cage for space reasons, but when I was growing up my dad always let the cherries sprawl - because cherries and pears are small and light we didn't have the issue with them lying on the ground or have broken vines from weight. Give it another trial this year with something other than just yellow pears - that particular variety will put up with any punishment and will keep growing so you won't know for sure if it's the best way to go for you until you try some larger types and let them sprawl. It's very likely you won't have to replant the yellow pear - they re-seed themselves pretty readily and you may have quite a few volunteers this year.
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Elizabeth If I'm going to water and care for a plant it had better give me food, flowers or shade. |
March 21, 2012 | #23 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Laurinburg, North Carolina, zone 7
Posts: 3,207
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The ants and sow bugs always seem to get my tomatoes when they're on the ground.
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