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Old May 9, 2015   #1
tnkrer
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Default Disease .. Defficiency .. what else ?? All tomatoes are dying :(

My tomato seedlings are doing quite well, They have thick stems, are nice and green .. except for the cherokee purple. They are getting the same treatment as others. (1/4 tsp of foliage pro in a gallon of water) They have changed the color from green to white at the origin of the leaf on all the new leaves. I don't think it was there two days ago. They are hardened now for a week and I am hoping to plant those out in next 3-5 days.



Both the seedlings are showing this. I have a third back up seedling that is not yet showing this thing, (It is also a little behind in its development)

What is this? How can it be corrected?

Last edited by tnkrer; May 9, 2015 at 03:43 PM.
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Old May 9, 2015   #2
RayR
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Can't see any detail from the picture but it looks like Edema from here.
Look at the bottom of the leaves, there may be raised blisters along the veins.
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Old May 9, 2015   #3
tnkrer
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Thanks Ray.
No, don't have any blisters on the bottom of the leaves.
All the chlorophyll (green color) is gone where the leaf attaches to the main stem and that part is completely white, then there is a brown area after that and the rest of the leaf is green.
The new foliage is almost all white and green.
So I think the seedlings are going to die unless I figure out how to fix it

I will search for pictures that show tomato diseases ..
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Old May 9, 2015   #4
KarenO
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http://www.haifa-group.com/knowledge...iency_symptoms

were they out in bright sun hardening? if so then maybe it's just sunscald, specially if the leaves were wet out in sun where the water might get caught in the crease at the veining in the center base like that
Chlorosis at the base of new leaves can be a sign of iron deficiency. why it or any deficiency would only be on two of your plants is a mystery, the only major variable that could be different is water if they are in the same potting mix. Poke some extra drain holes and give them a good drink of a balanced commercial soluble "blue stuff" with minerals.
either way, I think they will be OK.
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Old May 9, 2015   #5
tnkrer
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Thanks Karen,
It does not look like the Fe deficiency pictures though. More like K deficiency color, except that the edges are fine and the inside is bad.

Yes, They have been out in the bright sun hardening for a week now.
Leaves were not wet though And what worries me is that all the baby leaves have it and not the mature leaves.
AND NOw Indian stripe (PL) has it and Neves Azorean Red has it too

A few photos of the leaves of Indian Stripe








At this rate, I might lose all my tomato plants

So no more sun would be my first step. The leaves that are good, seem to be very nicely green, The plant seems happy (not stressed due to lack of water) still, will water them and keep them under lights for couple of days and see what happens

Also separated the affected ones and not affected ones in case this is a spreading kind
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Old May 9, 2015   #6
Al@NC
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Did you gradually try to introduce them to the sun such as a hour to begin with and then a couple, etc? To me it still just looks like sun scald but I may be wrong... That is except for the funky twisting of the leaves.

Good luck!
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Old May 9, 2015   #7
ginger2778
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To me that looks like some kind of fungus. I always prefer liquid copper fungicide at 1/2 of the weakest strength the bottle recommends, and I do a thorough soak above, below the leaves, and onto the stems right down to the soil line. It works on fungi, and bacteria. I use it every 10 days if no rain, and also after a heavy rainstorm or if there has been heavy morning dew.
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Old May 9, 2015   #8
tnkrer
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Al.. Yes, The plants were gradually introduced to outside. It has been over 10 days now. The sun was more bright last couple of days. No one has seen similar disease gives me some relief..
Ginger, thanks for the suggestion. I almost got ready to go out and spray the plants just now, but then decided to wait for one day and see if things improve. If they don't, I will spray copper fungicide tomorrow night.

Sent from my phone
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Old May 10, 2015   #9
tnkrer
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Did not see any improvement. So sprayed fungicide (daconil) with half recommended level. The suggested was 2.5 tsp (12.5 ml) in one gallon of water. So used 0.75 ml in 16 oz of water.

Will see what happens . Worst case scenario .. will go to nursery.

Do we have any TViller in MA area that sells plants?
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Old May 14, 2015   #10
tnkrer
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So the plants did not improve
Here are some of them. Some disease or fungus .. It did not spread after I isolated the infected plants

Dying Indian Stripe



Dying Cherokee Purple



Luckily I had still kept my seed starter tray that had the extras. So I still have at least one of each


Last edited by tnkrer; May 14, 2015 at 01:49 PM.
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Old May 14, 2015   #11
ginger2778
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Um... I think the indian stripe and cherokee purple are both photos of the same plant?
Also, did I give you the IS? If so then mine was the Indian Stripe Potato Leaf, which this photo is consistant with. If it is the usual Indian Stripe, then the plant should be regular leaf.
Sorry for the sidetrack
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Old May 14, 2015   #12
tnkrer
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corrected the pictures Marsha/Ginger

IS I have is PL, but I did not receive it from you. (You may be the original source) I got it from Kath.
Or May be Bill is the original source?

Last edited by tnkrer; May 14, 2015 at 01:55 PM.
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Old May 14, 2015   #13
ginger2778
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Do you suppose they might have gotten some aerosol mist when a neighbor was spraying roundup or other broad leapf pesticide? Sort of looks like that. Your spares look great. Kath had an independent supply of her ISPL, wasn't me!
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Old May 15, 2015   #14
Blueaussi
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Check for <spit!>thrips. Chilli <spit!>thrips can cause damage like that, although there is usually more speckling on the leaves.
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Old May 15, 2015   #15
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Just FYI, daconil is a fungal preventative and will not help a plant already infected. I've personally never sprayed with copper but I know no other way to address a sick plant other than removing foliage, which would not be advised in seedlings.
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