Percentage of takes

rjs55555 · June 10, 2014

How many crosses typically need to be made for a cross to take?

I have tried a couple and they have dropped off of the plant. I am not sure if I don't have enough pollen since the flowers are just starting to bloom. Try and try again!

Worth1 · June 10, 2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by rjs55555

How many crosses typically need to be made for a cross to take?

I have tried a couple and they have dropped off of the plant. I am not sure if I don't have enough pollen since the flowers are just starting to bloom. Try and try again!

One cross is all you need.
If they didn't take then they weren't a cross.

Worth

crmauch · June 12, 2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by rjs55555

How many crosses typically need to be made for a cross to take?

I have tried a couple and they have dropped off of the plant. I am not sure if I don't have enough pollen since the flowers are just starting to bloom. Try and try again!

I tried my first crosses last year, and I only had one take (ironically the female parent was a cherry tomato which are supposed to be more difficult (it's easy to knock off the pistil of a cherry tomato)).

How are you gathering the pollen? Are you attempting to store it?

What is the stage of the female parent (i.e. how far is it open?)?

What is dropping off? The pistil or the whole flower?

rjs55555 · June 12, 2014

I am gathering the pollen on a plastic spoon with black tape on it so I can see the pollen. I have an electric toothbrush to vibrate the flower.

The flowers are just starting to turn yellow when I emasculate them.

The whole flower falls off.

I think it could be a combo of damaging the pistil since the flowers are tiny and I think I need to wait for more flowers on the male donor. I am wondering if I don't get enough pollen.

I am hoping to get 5 or so red robin crosses to take this year. As long as I can get a successful RR x black cherry cross I will be happy!

crmauch · June 12, 2014

I did the black tape (on cardboard), I was strongly encouraged to switch to sunglass lenses. I'm taking it as a 'sign' that over the past year I've found 3 lenses in parking lots of damaged sunglasses.

Sounds like you're emasculating at the correct time. I think my problem also had to do with damaged pistils. I'm looking into pollen storage methods, and trying to come back to repollinate.

**Tom Wagner** · June 15, 2014

This year I have made near 500 crosses so far. I would say 75% have took.

I try to do one or more flowers in a cluster ranging from the most mature but not yet shedding pollen to those that would not shed for several days.

I try to collect pollen from one or more donor flowers to get a mix of aged pollen to just barely ready. I use a pair of tweezers to tap against a glass jigger to knock the pollen out along the side of the glass. The using a really fine artist's brush of a dark color (better to see the pollen) and scoot the pollen along the glass until the tip of the brush shows ample pollen. I then totally 'chicken fry steak' cover the stigma so that no more pollen can stick to it. This is done with a soft downward stroke on the stigma without bending the style.

The anther cone may be used again...i drop it after the first taps into the jigger and the sun kinda dries it up a bit and more pollen comes out...maybe by breaking the cone apart first. I prefer the pollen on the side of the jigger since it is not clumping as the pollen in the bottom of the jigger so often does.

It is important to cross flowers before any or very many fruit have formed earlier. Flower drop will occur often as the plant loads up fruit.

I have my own habits since I have been making crosses since the fifties, sixties, seventies, eighties, nineties, aughts, and now teens.

rjs55555 · June 21, 2014

Thanks for all of the advice Tom and crmauch!

I see a small tomato forming it looks like on my Red Robin x Sunburst F2 PL. I am also feeling good about my RR x Black Cherry. Once I see a tomato forming I will move on to the other crosses that I would like to get this year.

My goal is the same as a few others. I would like to get a variety of tomatoes that grow well in a window sill indoors or under a fluorescent light in the winter time.

I need to get a hold of a few more types of the micro-dwarfs to see which one does best.

bower · June 26, 2014

rjs55555,

I grew one called "Red Dwarf" on my windowsill for the late winter, what a beautiful little plant. It produces a red cherry tomato, quite nice, sweet when ripe which is pretty amazing on a window here with little sunshine and no supplementary light - granted, it was lengthening days already when I potted up. The fruit quality was really to my liking compared to many of the 'early reds' I grew in the greenhouse last year. I was also really impressed with a tomato growth habit so well suited to indoors, I suddenly understand the interest in microdwarves and the real prospect of some great windowsill tomatoes. Dwarf foliage is beautiful, and they don't flop against the window like regular tomatoes - the source of much indoor disease is this contact with the window and condensation there on a cold day or night... rugose leaves stay clean.

On a personal quest myself for tomatoes that produce barrels of great fruit in the cold and dark of summer..

.

Best of luck with your project, keep us posted.

swamper · June 27, 2014

Access to pollen is something that's limited me. I'd be interested in tips. I've had best luck with flowers that are just opening. I bought a vegibee last year but it didnt work miracles.

I clip sepals when emasculating and mark cluster with orange yarn. Add a label when pollinated, and try adding pollen on 2 consecutive days. If i get takes, i remove other fruit in the cluster. In a wet year I've seen sepals deteriorate.

Success rate varies tremendously with weather being the key factor. 50-90% but sometime a lot lower. Safely ripening is usually not a problem but anything can happen.

IronPete · June 27, 2014

Have you tried Micro Toms? Tiny little plants even smaller than Red Robin but quite hardy. I grow them every year. OP and can be grown in a 4" pot. I think I got the original seeds from TGS but could be wrong. Pete

rjs55555 · June 27, 2014

bower, I will have to look into that variety. I have not seen that one.

IronPete, I have not tried Micro Toms yet. I am primarily working with Red Robins and have thrown some Tiny Tim seeds in but have a hunch they are too old to germinate. I am also working on getting a few other types to see which grows the best. I need to pick up some Micro Toms soon as well.

I have seen posts of Red Robins living for 4-5 years and giving a few tomatoes per month. I am thinking the other varieties would be the same. I am happy getting any tomatoes in the dead of winter.

Swamper, I wish I could get a 50% success rate. I think I am damaging style or stigma since they are so small and delicate. I am debating practicing on larger varieties with bigger flowers. I have a few more months to get the crosses that I want.

IronPete · June 27, 2014

If you are having troubles germinating old seeds type it into the search box. Carolyn has posted some good tips on germinating old seeds. I have Micro Toms, Tiny Tims and Red Robins. I have never grown them over the winter but use them instead to get an early bridge-crop to tide me over until the rest of my toms come in. First year for Red Robin but I have grown the other two for several years now. My Micro Toms (started March twenty-something) all have red fruit now. The other two varieties are covered in tiny yellow flowers. Nice!

Pete

IronPete · June 27, 2014

This is a pic of two Micro Toms in an 8" pot. I took the pic this morning. Pete

IronPete · June 27, 2014

no idea why its sideways!

rjs55555 · June 27, 2014

I will definitely need to try them! In your opinion, which has the best flavor? Red Robin, Tiny Tim or Micro Tom?

My tomato wish list is way too long....haha

June 10, 2014	#1
rjs55555 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Pennsylvania Posts: 42	Percentage of takes How many crosses typically need to be made for a cross to take? I have tried a couple and they have dropped off of the plant. I am not sure if I don't have enough pollen since the flowers are just starting to bloom. Try and try again!

June 26, 2014	#8
bower Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Newfoundland, Canada Posts: 6,793	rjs55555, I grew one called "Red Dwarf" on my windowsill for the late winter, what a beautiful little plant. It produces a red cherry tomato, quite nice, sweet when ripe which is pretty amazing on a window here with little sunshine and no supplementary light - granted, it was lengthening days already when I potted up. The fruit quality was really to my liking compared to many of the 'early reds' I grew in the greenhouse last year. I was also really impressed with a tomato growth habit so well suited to indoors, I suddenly understand the interest in microdwarves and the real prospect of some great windowsill tomatoes. Dwarf foliage is beautiful, and they don't flop against the window like regular tomatoes - the source of much indoor disease is this contact with the window and condensation there on a cold day or night... rugose leaves stay clean. On a personal quest myself for tomatoes that produce barrels of great fruit in the cold and dark of summer... Best of luck with your project, keep us posted.

June 27, 2014	#10
IronPete Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Charlottetown, PEI, Canada Posts: 302	Have you tried Micro Toms? Tiny little plants even smaller than Red Robin but quite hardy. I grow them every year. OP and can be grown in a 4" pot. I think I got the original seeds from TGS but could be wrong. Pete __________________ Thanks; Iron Pete "We can agree to disagree."

June 27, 2014	#12
IronPete Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Charlottetown, PEI, Canada Posts: 302	If you are having troubles germinating old seeds type it into the search box. Carolyn has posted some good tips on germinating old seeds. I have Micro Toms, Tiny Tims and Red Robins. I have never grown them over the winter but use them instead to get an early bridge-crop to tide me over until the rest of my toms come in. First year for Red Robin but I have grown the other two for several years now. My Micro Toms (started March twenty-something) all have red fruit now. The other two varieties are covered in tiny yellow flowers. Nice! Pete __________________ Thanks; Iron Pete "We can agree to disagree."

June 27, 2014	#14
IronPete Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Charlottetown, PEI, Canada Posts: 302	no idea why its sideways! __________________ Thanks; Iron Pete "We can agree to disagree."

June 12, 2014	#4
rjs55555 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Pennsylvania Posts: 42	I am gathering the pollen on a plastic spoon with black tape on it so I can see the pollen. I have an electric toothbrush to vibrate the flower. The flowers are just starting to turn yellow when I emasculate them. The whole flower falls off. I think it could be a combo of damaging the pistil since the flowers are tiny and I think I need to wait for more flowers on the male donor. I am wondering if I don't get enough pollen. I am hoping to get 5 or so red robin crosses to take this year. As long as I can get a successful RR x black cherry cross I will be happy!

June 12, 2014	#5
crmauch Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2013 Location: Honey Brook, PA Zone 6b Posts: 399	I did the black tape (on cardboard), I was strongly encouraged to switch to sunglass lenses. I'm taking it as a 'sign' that over the past year I've found 3 lenses in parking lots of damaged sunglasses. Sounds like you're emasculating at the correct time. I think my problem also had to do with damaged pistils. I'm looking into pollen storage methods, and trying to come back to repollinate.

June 15, 2014	#6
Tom Wagner Crosstalk™ Forum Moderator Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: 8407 18th Ave West 7-203 Everett, Washington 98204 Posts: 1,157	This year I have made near 500 crosses so far. I would say 75% have took. I try to do one or more flowers in a cluster ranging from the most mature but not yet shedding pollen to those that would not shed for several days. I try to collect pollen from one or more donor flowers to get a mix of aged pollen to just barely ready. I use a pair of tweezers to tap against a glass jigger to knock the pollen out along the side of the glass. The using a really fine artist's brush of a dark color (better to see the pollen) and scoot the pollen along the glass until the tip of the brush shows ample pollen. I then totally 'chicken fry steak' cover the stigma so that no more pollen can stick to it. This is done with a soft downward stroke on the stigma without bending the style. The anther cone may be used again...i drop it after the first taps into the jigger and the sun kinda dries it up a bit and more pollen comes out...maybe by breaking the cone apart first. I prefer the pollen on the side of the jigger since it is not clumping as the pollen in the bottom of the jigger so often does. It is important to cross flowers before any or very many fruit have formed earlier. Flower drop will occur often as the plant loads up fruit. I have my own habits since I have been making crosses since the fifties, sixties, seventies, eighties, nineties, aughts, and now teens.

June 21, 2014	#7
rjs55555 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Pennsylvania Posts: 42	Thanks for all of the advice Tom and crmauch! I see a small tomato forming it looks like on my Red Robin x Sunburst F2 PL. I am also feeling good about my RR x Black Cherry. Once I see a tomato forming I will move on to the other crosses that I would like to get this year. My goal is the same as a few others. I would like to get a variety of tomatoes that grow well in a window sill indoors or under a fluorescent light in the winter time. I need to get a hold of a few more types of the micro-dwarfs to see which one does best.

June 27, 2014	#9
swamper Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2009 Location: CT Posts: 219	Access to pollen is something that's limited me. I'd be interested in tips. I've had best luck with flowers that are just opening. I bought a vegibee last year but it didnt work miracles. I clip sepals when emasculating and mark cluster with orange yarn. Add a label when pollinated, and try adding pollen on 2 consecutive days. If i get takes, i remove other fruit in the cluster. In a wet year I've seen sepals deteriorate. Success rate varies tremendously with weather being the key factor. 50-90% but sometime a lot lower. Safely ripening is usually not a problem but anything can happen.