Daconil or copper? - Page 2

b54red · March 22, 2015

Last season I ended up rotating using Daconil sometimes two weeks then copper or some variation so that I never used one more than two weeks in a row without switching and my results were far better than just using one product. Half my tomatoes are out hardening off now but I have been unable to use either as we have been having a lot of frequent showers but as soon as a forecast gives a break in the rain I will hit the young seedlings with Daconil. I prefer using the Daconil early because of the danger of leaf stunting that sometimes happens if copper is used in a solution too strong.

Bill

Imthechuck · March 22, 2015

I'm going to try this next year; my seasons went pretty well with routine spray of daconil; as soon as I stopped came the diseases/mold

Then I stopped spinosad during my second crop assuming the beneficial insects were doing there jobs.... Picked like 12 large Brandy Boys with pinworms or something similar

dustdevil · March 22, 2015

Copper is an anti-bacterial, not so much a fungicide.

ginger2778 · March 23, 2015

I use liquid copper exclusively, as both a bactericide and fungicide. I use it at 1/2 of their weakest strength, and this year I am adding BT to it after mixed. I've been doing this for years now. At that strength it is very effective in my hot humid fungus ridden environment, but I only have to deal with early blight, septoria, grey mold, and sometimes powdery mildew. I use it religiously every 10 days, and also after it rains. Very little fungus, no bacterial spot or speck, and zero worms for the first year ever, since this is the first year I am adding the BT. I like it much better than Daconil, but I am very careful about the strength. Leaf damage will result if it is stronger, at least for me. Remember, my growing season actually gets cooler for the first 4 months.

Rfdillon · March 23, 2015

As a relative newbie, growing in the Houston, TX area, what is recommended as a fungicide for this climate? I remember from gardening 15 years ago, that by July everything had to be pulled up, as I didn't use any fungicide back then.

March 22, 2015	#16
b54red Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Alabama Posts: 7,068	Last season I ended up rotating using Daconil sometimes two weeks then copper or some variation so that I never used one more than two weeks in a row without switching and my results were far better than just using one product. Half my tomatoes are out hardening off now but I have been unable to use either as we have been having a lot of frequent showers but as soon as a forecast gives a break in the rain I will hit the young seedlings with Daconil. I prefer using the Daconil early because of the danger of leaf stunting that sometimes happens if copper is used in a solution too strong. Bill

March 22, 2015	#17
Imthechuck Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: SouthFlorida Zone 10 Posts: 120	I'm going to try this next year; my seasons went pretty well with routine spray of daconil; as soon as I stopped came the diseases/mold Then I stopped spinosad during my second crop assuming the beneficial insects were doing there jobs.... Picked like 12 large Brandy Boys with pinworms or something similar

March 22, 2015	#18
dustdevil Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: WI, USA Zone4 Posts: 1,887	Copper is an anti-bacterial, not so much a fungicide.

March 23, 2015	#19
ginger2778 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10 Posts: 9,283	I use liquid copper exclusively, as both a bactericide and fungicide. I use it at 1/2 of their weakest strength, and this year I am adding BT to it after mixed. I've been doing this for years now. At that strength it is very effective in my hot humid fungus ridden environment, but I only have to deal with early blight, septoria, grey mold, and sometimes powdery mildew. I use it religiously every 10 days, and also after it rains. Very little fungus, no bacterial spot or speck, and zero worms for the first year ever, since this is the first year I am adding the BT. I like it much better than Daconil, but I am very careful about the strength. Leaf damage will result if it is stronger, at least for me. Remember, my growing season actually gets cooler for the first 4 months.

March 23, 2015	#20
Rfdillon Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 121	As a relative newbie, growing in the Houston, TX area, what is recommended as a fungicide for this climate? I remember from gardening 15 years ago, that by July everything had to be pulled up, as I didn't use any fungicide back then.