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General discussion regarding the techniques and methods used to successfully grow tomato plants in containers.

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Old October 26, 2014   #16
solid7
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Originally Posted by Worth1 View Post
Potassium is also known as potash because it was found to be in the ashes of burned potted plants.
Again too much wood ash can raise the ph too much so if you already have an alkaline soil you don't want the use it.
Unless you are growing Yucca.
My rule of thumb is if the plants are growing well leave them alone.
Worth

I still believe that my plants will weather a non-dosing of start-up lime, due to that buffer layer of compost that I put at the top. However, I just needed an option, should things quickly go south.
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Old November 4, 2014   #17
Fiishergurl
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I still believe that my plants will weather a non-dosing of start-up lime, due to that buffer layer of compost that I put at the top. However, I just needed an option, should things quickly go south.
I had an SWC that we didnt lime because our neighbor was a master gardener and she told my husband he didnt need to put it in and I wasnt home at the time, I was away on business. So after he told me I started asking around the same as you and I ended up trying to mix it into the top few inches as the plants were already a couple of weeks into being transplanted by the time I returned home and found out. That swc was the only one with ber and it was on beefsteaks and early girls which dont usually get it. So once that started and didnt stop, I finally used calcium nitrate once a week and that put a stop to the ber. I had the exact same plants in two other swcs that had gotten the lime the proper way and none of them ever got ber.

Ginny
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Old November 4, 2014   #18
Sun City Linda
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I had an SWC that we didnt lime because our neighbor was a master gardener and she told my husband he didnt need to put it in and I wasnt home at the time, I was away on business. So after he told me I started asking around the same as you and I ended up trying to mix it into the top few inches as the plants were already a couple of weeks into being transplanted by the time I returned home and found out. That swc was the only one with ber and it was on beefsteaks and early girls which dont usually get it. So once that started and didnt stop, I finally used calcium nitrate once a week and that put a stop to the ber. I had the exact same plants in two other swcs that had gotten the lime the proper way and none of them ever got ber.

Ginny
SWCs really play by their own set of rules and that can create a conflict for experienced gardeners. Other times, no problems. After growing tomatoes organically most successfully in Earthboxes one year, the next year, it was a disaster of multiple nutritional deficiencies and more.
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Old November 4, 2014   #19
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The only SWC I ever saw in real life the tomatoes had BER.
The lady had no idea what was the matter with her maters.
I told her what it was and that was about it.
She did say she had been letting it dry out too much.
I have no idea what to do with an SWC.
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Old November 5, 2014   #20
drew51
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Lime is added because SWC rely on peat, which is known to become acidic. These conditions can impede your plants ability to utilize the nutrients and result in BER and other nutrient related issues. A small amount of pickling lime mixed with water and added to the watering system is a treatment if you get BER. Not sure that I would try that as a replacement for the missing dolomite lime.

Compost is a wonderful ingredient and helps many plants grow great. Unfortunately in an earthbox or SWC situation it results in your growing media turning to muck quicker than it might otherwise. Not a problem if you don't mind replacing your growing medium.

That is so not true. Compost is very well draining and is well documented to prevent root rot. Also as many forget I guess? Peat IS compost! And one should use composted bark too. Manure compost is OK, just be careful. Too much peat in many mixes is the problem, not manure compost.

http://horttech.ashspublications.org.../1/61.full.pdf

The Brits know how to garden, best gardens in the world!
http://www.hillsidenurserycentre.com...10l-2683-p.asp

Last edited by drew51; November 5, 2014 at 05:31 AM.
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Old November 5, 2014   #21
Sun City Linda
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That is so not true. Compost is very well draining and is well documented to prevent root rot. Also as many forget I guess? Peat IS compost! And one should use composted bark too. Manure compost is OK, just be careful. Too much peat in many mixes is the problem, not manure compost.

http://horttech.ashspublications.org.../1/61.full.pdf

The Brits know how to garden, best gardens in the world!
http://www.hillsidenurserycentre.com...10l-2683-p.asp
Compost IS a wonderful ingredient. But it is not recommended by Earthbox as a good addition. Although some is present in most mixes. EB suggest a mix that is 75% peat, and the balance a mix of perlite and/or vermiculite, with compost if any being one of the least ingredients. Promix works great in SWCs. Many fail to understand Earthbox or SWC container growing is different than growing in containers. Primary emphasis is on the wicking action of the mix and not that it be a source of nutrients. Hence, the reliance on peat.

Some people dump all kinds of things into their SWCs and that can work really well until it doesn't.

Last edited by Sun City Linda; November 5, 2014 at 09:52 AM.
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Old November 5, 2014   #22
Ed of Somis
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Interesting reading...it is funny how internet forum gardening experts (I recognize some here from other places) can totally disagree on procedures/routines for their gardens. There are many "tried and tested" ways to garden...and then some people have their "secret tricks". I find it is best to get most information from professional sources...and over time your own "secret tricks" will appear.
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