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New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.

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Old August 21, 2006   #16
sirtanon
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Re seed starting mix -- I just chip off what I need from a compressed bale of Pro-Mix. A lot quicker and cheaper for me, as I almost always have a bale or two in the garage anyway.
Two bales, eh? Wow... I don't have that kind of stockpile, but I suppose eventually I'll load up. I don't recall seeing Pro-mix here, but I will look some more. Is this just plain Pro-Mix, or is there a specialized seed starter? I'm guessing Pro-Mix is just a non-soil growing mix that also makes a great seed-starting medium..?

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As far as potting soil goes, I simply won't use it for seed starting -- learned that one the hard way. Thought it worked great until the first time I had a problem with it. Wink
Well, it seems like maybe I'm doing that bit of learning myself. I'm hoping that's all it is, but I'm not feeling confident either way. I'm really hoping that the mix I've got now will do well for seed starting.

...that and maybe some new light fixtures.
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Old August 21, 2006   #17
Suze
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Originally Posted by sirtanon
Is this just plain Pro-Mix, or is there a specialized seed starter? I'm guessing Pro-Mix is just a non-soil growing mix that also makes a great seed-starting medium..?
Eric, this is the plain/standard Pro-Mix. It's just peat, vermiculite, perlite, limestone, wetting agent. Pretty much like the bagged soilless seed starting mixes. I happen to always have some on hand because I do so much container growing.







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Old August 21, 2006   #18
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Hmm... looks like good stuff. Unfortunately, I have yet to see it in my area

I will look around though, and see if I can locate a place that carries it here in the Phoenix area.

Thanks
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Old August 21, 2006   #19
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Suze.

Is the brand name 'Premier'?

Info on wetting agents

Miracle-Gro® Seed Starting Potting Mix
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Old August 22, 2006   #20
feldon30
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Polar_Lace,

I can read about wetting agents until I'm blue in the face, but it seems no websites actually SELL the stuff! Maybe it's not to be sold to consumers in full strength?
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Old August 22, 2006   #21
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I'm assuming these folks sell their product
either directly or through distributors:

http://www.yates.com.au/commercial/p...moisturaid.asp

http://www.ohp.com/Products/suffusion_g.php

PV
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Old August 22, 2006   #22
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Well, I've checked my area thoroughly.. done web searches, etc...

..and from what I can tell, neither Pro-Mix NOR Fafard is available in Arizona

All I can say is.. What the (omitted)!!!

So, it looks like all I can do for now is get some peat, and some other good stuff, and make my own... which I have, more or less, just in smaller quantity.
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Old August 24, 2006   #23
michael johnson
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I find that one of the best ways to stop seedling problems such as damping off etc, is to sprinkle about a eighth of an inch layer of course gritty sand onto the top of the sowing compost, this gives the top layer a bit of drainage around the fist bit of stem of the seedlings and stops a damp residue from forming on the surface, it also helps a bit to drag off any stuck seed husks that often seem to happen, but the main thing to prevent any seedling problems is plenty of free circulating air round them- this is by far the best thing for desease prevention. :wink:
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Old August 24, 2006   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michael johnson
... but the main thing to prevent any seedling problems is plenty of free circulating air round them- this is by far the best thing for desease prevention. :wink:
MJ,

I think you're onto something there. Every single seedling of mine that damped off this spring was in a smaller (8 to 12 ounce) styrofoam cup ... none of the other seedlings in the 4" square plastic containers or larger (16-ounce) styrofoam cups damped off.

And I only noticed mildew-like growth on top of the soil in the smaller cups as well. Maybe the smaller styrofoam cups were generating more condensation at the surface of the starting mix and containing it in such a way as to restrict air circulation at the surface. All the damping off occured at a rather advanced stage too ... like after the second sets of true leaves ... so it may have been crowded conditions that discouraged air circulation as well.

But then ... hmmmmm
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Old August 25, 2006   #25
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Yes- it works on a a simular principle to opening up greenhouse air vents with a free flow of air over the plants and seedlings,

With a greenhouse- if you leave it closed up with no air flow, its not long before one starts to see leaf spotting and mould setting in.

But with newly sprouted seedlings with a good air flow round them- they usualy grow and flourish no probs,even retaining their seed leaves as fresh and green until over a foot high or more in some cases.

I have even known some growers train the air flow from a low powered fan-accross their seedling trays from about 6-8 foot away to keep the air circulating like a gentle breeze, and they very rarely get problems with damping off and the like.

Another thing that people tend to do wrong- is lots of them (including me ) cover their seed starting trays in polythene or saren wrap, which is fine- to encourage initial germination, but you must remove it straight away as soon as its noticed the seeds are just beginning to sprout, otherwise all sorts of damp problems will occur, usualy the seedlings then continue to grow and lift up their heads and hopefully throw out their first seed leaves.

Once you have got the seed leaves showing- that is the time to increase the air flow if possible.

I personaly- never touch them at all after that for about ten days- until the first true leaves are showing and the second pair are just peeking through at the tip, I can then decide when to start transplanting them into the next stage pot or whatever.

A good air flow over the seedlings also seems to encourage slightly stronger and better stems- with them waving gently in an air current-and sort of stiffens them up a bit, whereas young plants kept in warm humid conditions tend to grow a softer more floppy stems and leaves- often leading to breakages and snapping off of stems at the time of transplanting them outside.
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Old August 31, 2006   #26
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Well, I've changed a few things when doing my second batch of seeds...

1 - Different seed-starting mix. I started with some heat-sterilized Walmart mix.. Baked it in the oven at 180 degrees for about 10 minutes.. then added it to pure peat at a ratio of about 3 parts peat to 1 part wally mix. nice and dry of course, so I wetted it with some 1/8 strength MG solution so it was just barely damp. I then placed seeds into it and sprayed them with a little water and then covered them about 1 millimeter deep.

2 - I had started with just ONE shop lamp setup in my little seedling closet using 2 Phillips cool-white plus bulbs.. old ones at that. I ADDED a second new shop light setup and replaced all bulbs. I now use 1 Phillips Cool-white plus and 1 Phillips Daylight Deluxe bulb in each. What a difference in color temp! Brighter and MUCH better!

3 - Taking advice from Suze, I watered all my existing seedlings with a dilute mixture of hydrogen peroxide (1 part 3% hydrogen peroxide to 12 parts water). I also mixed in just a tiny bit (about 1/10th dose) of MG and the tiniest bit of epsom salt.

The results? The older seedlings have started showing some new life. They are finally showing green in their leaves, as opposed to the horrible yellow look that they were stuck with.. The new seedlings are all green and healthy and growing at a decent pace. I also have had a much better germination rate.

Thanks to all who have helped!

- Eric
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