Spider Mites

Garf · May 21, 2012

It seems that what I thought was nutrient shortages is actually spider mites. This is a bad infestation and I have a history of not being able to deal with them. I need help. How do I kill these things without killing my plants?

delltraveller · May 21, 2012

I've been trying out a spray of 50% rubbing alcohol/ 50% water on some plants with signs of spider mites. Jury's still out on the effectiveness.

May 21, 2012

That is really gross! You have what appears to be a lethal infestation- the webs are so heavy I doubt that you could get inside them with a bulldozer! Seriously, if the plant(s) were mine I would dispose of them and start over. I have a huge problem with SMs, and have discovered that Neem oil is the best to get rid of them. My Pole Beans got them as soon as the sprouts appeared, but one spraying 2 weeks ago got them. I spray about every 10 days to prevent more, and so far they are free of the little demons!

May 21, 2012

delta, doesn't the alcohol dry the leaves out? That seems like a really strong mixture.

DogsandDirt · May 21, 2012

Definitely spider mites - I hate those little (insert expletive). I've used Take Down with pretty good success so far. Espoma also has a product that's essentially this same thing, Earth-tone Insect Control. Both are made with canola oil and pyrethrin. Some people have success with neem oil, but it hasn't worked too well for me. Insecticidal soap, pyrethrin, permethrin, and sulfur will give you some control but you'll need to keep hitting them with something. They are persistent.

Some application tips:
1) Whatever you decide to use, apply early in the morning or after sunset. All of those products can cause leaf burn if the sun hits them when they're wet

2) If you decide to use an oil based product, you cannot apply a sulfur-containing product for at least 21 days or you'll burn your plants. Avoid sulfur when temps are >90 degrees

3) DO NOT USE FERTILOME TRIPLE ACTION PLUS!!! I sprayed it on 3 plants and it almost killed them. It says it's a pesticide, but it acts like a herbicide.

delltraveller · May 21, 2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by JoParrott

delta, doesn't the alcohol dry the leaves out? That seems like a really strong mixture.

It's the regular, lower strength rubbing alcohol commonly available just about everywhere, not one of the more specialized higher strength versions. So far I'm having no trouble with it drying out the leaves. It seems to evaporate quickly, leaving little time for it to damage the leaves. I don't put it on when the sun is on the plants, though. Shady time only.

augiedog55 · May 21, 2012

I askd the same thing early this yr. Raybo recommended "Take Down" with Pyrethrin and canola oil. I ordered some yesterday and got an email this morning saying it was discontinued. I'm getting ready for them here. They will start in a month or so. One person also used insect grow inhibiter with good success. Hope they will respond to this thread when they see it.

DogsandDirt · May 21, 2012

Quote:

Originally Posted by augiedog55

I askd the same thing early this yr. Raybo recommended "Take Down" with Pyrethrin and canola oil. I ordered some yesterday and got an email this morning saying it was discontinued. I'm getting ready for them here. They will start in a month or so. One person also used insect grow inhibiter with good success. Hope they will respond to this thread when they see it.

Hmmm...didn't know Take Down was discontinued. I ordered mine from Worm's Way (www.wormsway.com) last year. You might check with them to see if they still have some in stock. They also have the Espoma Earth-tone version listed on their website.

I think it was b54red who uses insect growth regulator on his plants. I think he said the brand was Martin's IGR.

stackhouse_kbtom · May 21, 2012

general hydroponics has a great product named azamax that is a highly pure form of neem.... costs a little bit but the stuff works great on spider mites b4 they happen.... seeing u already are infested u should find u some pyrethrins as well.... I'm sure u can find a product with pyrethrins @ lowes or home depot... i think there is a green light brand for fruit trees... anyways if u alternate between these two products every 7 days... ull be golden

Dewayne mater · May 21, 2012

I used Takedown once this season and for a few days, it pretty much did what its name says. I ordered it maybe 3 weeks ago and would be surprised if it is discontinued by Monterrey.

Neem and other oil products may reduce but in my experience do not eliminate spider mites.

It all depends on how toxic you want to get. There are other miticides that will do the job, but, you may not want to eat tomatoes that they were sprayed on, at least I don't. Pyrethrins and Permethrins (sp?) are both pretty doggone toxic already, at least to bees, fish, etc. So, if you use them, the most environmentally conscious way to do so, imo, is to spray at night after dusk if possible, then come back out the next morning early and spray them again with something else to wash off the pyrethrins. Overnight should be sufficient to kill spider mites.

Does anyone know if Kaolin clay will effect these little demons? It is supposed to work on leaf footed bugs and I'm wondering if spider mites might be deterred as well?

Good luck.

Dewayne mater

kurt · May 21, 2012

Ladybugs are cheaper(Im sorry "less expensive") than a bottle of chemicals.They will stop the life cycle of the critters.And while they are eating they also polinate at the same time.Two for one.

Heritage · May 21, 2012

From this article http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7405.html which has some good recommendations on controls, both biological and chemical:

"Spider mites frequently become a problem after applying insecticides. Such outbreaks are commonly a result of the insecticide killing off the mites’ natural enemies but also occur when certain insecticides stimulate mite reproduction. For example, spider mites exposed to carbaryl (Sevin) in the laboratory have been shown to reproduce faster than untreated populations. Carbaryl, some organophosphates, and some pyrethroids apparently also favor spider mites by increasing the level of nitrogen in leaves. Insecticides applied during hot weather usually appear to have the greatest effect, causing dramatic spider mite outbreaks within a few days."

I have had fair luck with Neem oil, however it is always the spider mites that determine when my tomato season ends. If I wanted a longer season I would try other oils or the IGR's.

Steve

augiedog55 · May 21, 2012

Dogs and dirt. Thanks for the imfo. Just orderd mine

stackhouse_kbtom · May 21, 2012

if u use a good neem product correctly u will never have any bug problems whatsoever.... but with any organic pesticide u have to use it from day one.. thats y i said he needed to use the pyrethrins first than continue with a fine neem product, not green light... even billy the exterminator uses pyrethrins..... u may have not had any luck with neem due to incorrect labeling of the product, or inferior product... u also have to be persistent with neem.... bugs do not build up a tolerance to neem therefore its great to use once every 7-10 days.... indoor growers have tons of trouble with mites.... therefore we may have a little more knowledge of how to deter them... not to mention i have never seen powdery mildew, blight, or blossom rot with any plant i have treated with neem religiously.

RayR · May 21, 2012

Pyola Insect Spray Concentrate from GardensAlive! and Espoma Earth-tone Insect Control are the same product as Monterrey Take Down.

May 21, 2012	#2
delltraveller Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Iowa Posts: 481	I've been trying out a spray of 50% rubbing alcohol/ 50% water on some plants with signs of spider mites. Jury's still out on the effectiveness.

May 21, 2012	#3
JoParrott Guest Posts: n/a	That is really gross! You have what appears to be a lethal infestation- the webs are so heavy I doubt that you could get inside them with a bulldozer! Seriously, if the plant(s) were mine I would dispose of them and start over. I have a huge problem with SMs, and have discovered that Neem oil is the best to get rid of them. My Pole Beans got them as soon as the sprouts appeared, but one spraying 2 weeks ago got them. I spray about every 10 days to prevent more, and so far they are free of the little demons!

May 21, 2012	#5
DogsandDirt Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2011 Location: Dallas/FortWorth, TX Posts: 116	Definitely spider mites - I hate those little (insert expletive). I've used Take Down with pretty good success so far. Espoma also has a product that's essentially this same thing, Earth-tone Insect Control. Both are made with canola oil and pyrethrin. Some people have success with neem oil, but it hasn't worked too well for me. Insecticidal soap, pyrethrin, permethrin, and sulfur will give you some control but you'll need to keep hitting them with something. They are persistent. Some application tips: 1) Whatever you decide to use, apply early in the morning or after sunset. All of those products can cause leaf burn if the sun hits them when they're wet 2) If you decide to use an oil based product, you cannot apply a sulfur-containing product for at least 21 days or you'll burn your plants. Avoid sulfur when temps are >90 degrees 3) DO NOT USE FERTILOME TRIPLE ACTION PLUS!!! I sprayed it on 3 plants and it almost killed them. It says it's a pesticide, but it acts like a herbicide.

May 21, 2012	#7
augiedog55 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: oak grove mo Posts: 406	I askd the same thing early this yr. Raybo recommended "Take Down" with Pyrethrin and canola oil. I ordered some yesterday and got an email this morning saying it was discontinued. I'm getting ready for them here. They will start in a month or so. One person also used insect grow inhibiter with good success. Hope they will respond to this thread when they see it.

May 21, 2012	#9
stackhouse_kbtom Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2012 Location: south carolina Posts: 28	general hydroponics has a great product named azamax that is a highly pure form of neem.... costs a little bit but the stuff works great on spider mites b4 they happen.... seeing u already are infested u should find u some pyrethrins as well.... I'm sure u can find a product with pyrethrins @ lowes or home depot... i think there is a green light brand for fruit trees... anyways if u alternate between these two products every 7 days... ull be golden

May 21, 2012	#10
Dewayne mater Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2008 Location: DFW, Texas Posts: 1,212	I used Takedown once this season and for a few days, it pretty much did what its name says. I ordered it maybe 3 weeks ago and would be surprised if it is discontinued by Monterrey. Neem and other oil products may reduce but in my experience do not eliminate spider mites. It all depends on how toxic you want to get. There are other miticides that will do the job, but, you may not want to eat tomatoes that they were sprayed on, at least I don't. Pyrethrins and Permethrins (sp?) are both pretty doggone toxic already, at least to bees, fish, etc. So, if you use them, the most environmentally conscious way to do so, imo, is to spray at night after dusk if possible, then come back out the next morning early and spray them again with something else to wash off the pyrethrins. Overnight should be sufficient to kill spider mites. Does anyone know if Kaolin clay will effect these little demons? It is supposed to work on leaf footed bugs and I'm wondering if spider mites might be deterred as well? Good luck. Dewayne mater

May 21, 2012	#11
kurt Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Homestead,Everglades City Fl. Posts: 2,491	Ladybugs are cheaper(Im sorry "less expensive") than a bottle of chemicals.They will stop the life cycle of the critters.And while they are eating they also polinate at the same time.Two for one.

May 21, 2012	#12
Heritage Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: San Diego Posts: 1,255	From this article http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7405.html which has some good recommendations on controls, both biological and chemical: "Spider mites frequently become a problem after applying insecticides. Such outbreaks are commonly a result of the insecticide killing off the mites’ natural enemies but also occur when certain insecticides stimulate mite reproduction. For example, spider mites exposed to carbaryl (Sevin) in the laboratory have been shown to reproduce faster than untreated populations. Carbaryl, some organophosphates, and some pyrethroids apparently also favor spider mites by increasing the level of nitrogen in leaves. Insecticides applied during hot weather usually appear to have the greatest effect, causing dramatic spider mite outbreaks within a few days." I have had fair luck with Neem oil, however it is always the spider mites that determine when my tomato season ends. If I wanted a longer season I would try other oils or the IGR's. Steve

May 21, 2012	#15
RayR Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Cheektowaga, NY Posts: 2,466	Pyola Insect Spray Concentrate from GardensAlive! and Espoma Earth-tone Insect Control are the same product as Monterrey Take Down.