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Old March 22, 2013   #1
John3
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Default Update for those using MycoGrow Soluble Mycorrhize

They have MycoGrow Soluble in 1 lb's now for $79.95 (plus shipping)
http://www.fungi.com/product-detail/...uble-1-lb.html
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Old March 22, 2013   #2
b54red
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I wonder how long the stuff is viable because a pound would last a long time used at the recommended rate of one ounce to twelve gallons of water. I use the one ounce packages and have not seen a freshness date on them.
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Old March 22, 2013   #3
John3
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b54red
I just got off the phone with the company from asking them your question.
100% viability for two years - then losses 10% per year after that (so total would be about 12 years}.
You are correct about 1 oz per 12 gal as it's concentrated.
However I talked with a owner a few years back and explained here we had a lot of humidity and he told me to use 1 oz per gal - and I like doing it that way. The extra I was told no way hurts the plants but would allow more of the bacteria to work against a lot of the high humidity type molds etc.

Last edited by John3; March 22, 2013 at 04:09 PM.
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Old March 22, 2013   #4
b54red
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John at that rate I cant afford to use the stuff. If it doesn't work at something close to the recommended rate then I will have to quit using it. I have found it most useful in the plants after they are potted up. All of my plants are now treated when they are potted up so the roots have some time for the fungus to colonize before they go into the ground. Using it seems to increase the uptake of nutrients and the plants are a darker green and just look healthier. In the garden I have found it of little use as a fusarium repellent even when used as a soil drench. Maybe I just have too much fusarium but even when using far more than recommended I could see no difference in the treated and untreated plants the last few years. The most effective thing for serious fusarium is a plant with high resistance to it. I am doing some experimenting with grafting onto various rootstock that are of proven resistance to see if that will be a help with the fusarium.
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Old March 22, 2013   #5
armac
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You need to store it in a cooler environment, heat kills.
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Old March 22, 2013   #6
RayR
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You've got to have some serious acreage to need 1lb.
1oz will do me for the season and then some.
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Old March 22, 2013   #7
John3
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b54red - it sounds like it is not working for you if it didn't work for me I wouldn't use it either. Sounds like that experimenting with grafting onto various rootstock might be a good direction.
If you have time google this phrase
Trichoderma destroying pathogenic fungi fusarium

The only time I drench MycoGrow is when I transplant out using Ami’s dip method – I take what is left and pour out around the plants.
Besides foiler spraying I apply MycoGrow like in this video but pour the liquid down the holes

And use a Rolling Head Pry Bar for making the holes looks like the one in the video




Thanks armac for the heat information.

RayR - I have some fruit trees and camellias which like to drink it

Last edited by John3; March 22, 2013 at 07:40 PM.
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Old March 22, 2013   #8
b54red
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John I'm not saying it isn't working, because I definitely see improvement in the plants while still in the cups with potting soil. I just have seen no discernible difference in the plants once in my fusarium laced soil. It may well be killing a bit of the fusarium but not enough to make a big difference.

What I really need are a couple of really cold winters so that my beds freeze solid. That hasn't happened in years. We have been having exceptionally mild winters with no really cold weather for a few years and the fusarium which is always here has just gotten worse.

Bill
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Old March 24, 2013   #9
Wi-sunflower
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Bill,

Have you tried solarizing your beds ??

Wet the beds well then cover with clear plastic for at least a month to heat up that covered soil.

I don't know if that would "cook" the fusarium enough to kill is, but it might be worth a try to see if it would help.

Carol
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Old April 3, 2013   #10
dice
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One mycorhizzae vendor (not Fungi Perfecti) said that Trichoderma
Harziana, while a beneficial, protective organism in the rhizosphere,
may interfere with endomycorrhizae colonization of the roots. With
that in mind, I have been using Mycogrow for Vegetables
(endomycorrhizae only; it does not have the cocktail of beneficial
soil organisms that is in Mycrogrow Soluble, which includes
trichoderma) when potting up.

Then I use Mycogrow Soluble at around a teaspoon per gallon in the
water that I water seedlings in with when I transplant into the garden
or into larger containers. By then the endomycorrhizae in Mycogrow
for Vegetables has had 5-6 weeks to colonize the roots of the seedlings
before they have their first exposure to trichoderma harziana.
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Old April 5, 2019   #11
rick9748
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Default Use of Myco Grow

Do you need to use untreated water for this to work??
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Old April 5, 2019   #12
korney19
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I don't use that specific product, but I do use Mykos, which is around $25 for 2.2lbs w/Amazon Prime delivery... it's a granular.
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