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Old July 9, 2012   #16
jerryinfla
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I should have another input on Arkansas Traveler in a few weeks because, on a lark, I transplanted two of them along with two Heatwave IIs to the garden July 5. Hot days and nights will be the norm here in central Florida for the next several weeks.
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Old July 9, 2012   #17
lakelady
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We've had a lot of high heat here in NJ and one plant has really stood out for me setting flowers and fruit; Chapman. It had zero flowers when all the other plants were setting flowers like crazy and I thought it was a dud. Zippo flowers. Past two weeks with the heat, it suddenly kicked into high gear and is setting huge clusters of flowers and fruits are growing fast. I'm impressed. The Berkley Tie Dye is also fruiting moreso in the heat so that might be a good one for you too Scott. It too, had a slow start here and now is going like gangbusters.
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Old July 9, 2012   #18
ScottinAtlanta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solanum315 View Post
NY here so not quite the same heat but the past few weeks have seen a lot of 90+ days. Two of my plants couldn't care less. Ildi and VC-11.
What is VC-11?
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Old July 9, 2012   #19
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WOW that is some welcome news, I guess I will have to see about them, the only problem is I have such limited space. Too bad these are in the dwarf program. Small compact plants that grow in the heat, now that would be a win win for me...LOL

Can't wait to hear how they taste.
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Old July 10, 2012   #20
riceke
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Hey Scott...you can find a table of heat tolerant tomatoes at the Tomato Dirt website. Heres their address: http://www.tomatodirt.com/heat-toler...varieties.html Also there is a website Tomato Index where growers can rate varieties and list their opinions at:
http://www.tomatoindex.com/index.cfm. Good luck with your endeavors but remember that a variety can perform successfully one year and the next terrible, depending on the climate. If you ask how a variety did for someone also ask how many times they have planted it. Example for me was I grew Chocolate Cherry 2 years in a row and swore how great they were. Last year I grew them and they were practically inedible due to the drought we had. They were actually orange-brown. Didn't even look appetizing. So growing frequiency is important to know.
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Old July 11, 2012   #21
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That was good info Scott & Ken. I am right down the road from you & have looked for feedback on Super Sioux & Bella Rosa in this area. Amazin that Mule Team made it in Atlanta. Maybe I will give it a 2nd chance. I just posted a request on flavor, viral diseases & hybrids down south & this is a start
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Old July 12, 2012   #22
JamesL
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Interesting article here discussing heat.
http://www.arktimes.com/arkansas/ark...nt?oid=2333930
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Old July 13, 2012   #23
b54red
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottinAtlanta View Post
Thanks, everyone. I am putting together a "high heat" list for our gardeners in this area, and your posts are very helpful.

B54, Stump and Cherokee Purple both slowed down for me when the heat rose. Did yours keep flowering and setting fruit in 100 degree weather?
Scott, it mainly was determined by the age of the plant. The younger plants continued to produce in the heat and the older ones did not but that is true of most of the plants setting in the heat. It seems that once the plant has grown off a lot of fruit and has very long stems with the new growth mainly on the tips that setting in high heat is difficult. I have had older plants do very well setting again once the heat lets up a bit in the fall.
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Old July 13, 2012   #24
Mikedog
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hey guys tell me about B54. I once knew some of the B52s but that's a different time Never MInd Stupid question

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Old July 13, 2012   #25
ScottinAtlanta
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Scott, it mainly was determined by the age of the plant. The younger plants continued to produce in the heat and the older ones did not but that is true of most of the plants setting in the heat. It seems that once the plant has grown off a lot of fruit and has very long stems with the new growth mainly on the tips that setting in high heat is difficult. I have had older plants do very well setting again once the heat lets up a bit in the fall.
Very interesting point. Thanks for making it.
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Old July 13, 2012   #26
Tania
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Hey, I got mine the same way. Thanks, Tania.
Thank you Scott! I am happy to see that many folks find space to grow out some of my bonus packets . These are usually the varieties I collected TONS of seeds, which means they were insanely productive in my garden.
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Old July 13, 2012   #27
Solanum315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottinAtlanta View Post
What is VC-11?
Noted for resistance to bacterial wilt and heat, VC-11 was used in a fair amount of research in the Philippines in the 1970s, notably by the Asian Vegetable Research Development Center. See below for an example.
http://www.apsnet.org/publications/p...o67n07_909.PDF

Here is a pic of a few greenies in my back yard. Look like they will be somewhat larger than cherries. Not super productive, but I didn't see any blossoms drop in the heat and the plant shows no signs of stress.
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File Type: jpg IMG_2241.jpg (154.0 KB, 7 views)
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Old July 14, 2012   #28
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I've been wanting to comment on this thread for a few days now, but have hesitated because I didn't want this to come across as a confrontational in any way. But after looking at the exceptional pictures Scott added showing those great trusses of tomatoes, I'm just wondering if those plants actually set fruit prior to the period of intense heat.

I've examined the weather data from the Atlanta area that indicates the intense heat began there on Thursday, July 28th with a high of 97°. Prior to the 28th, temperatures were quite moderate with highs mostly in the 80's with lows in the lower 70's (and even some in the 60's).

Scott posted the pictures, I believe, this past Sunday, 11 days after the period of intense heat began, so I guess what I'm curious about, based on the size of the tomatoes in the pictures, is whether his plants actually did set the fruit during the heat. Instead, I'm wondering if they actually set fruit prior to the period of intense heat.

I suppose its important to somehow be able to define the point when a tomato sets fruit. I know I can examine some of my blossoms and can gently remove a deteriorating flower that's drying up to see the smallest green nub that will grow to be a tomato. To me, that's an indication that pollination has occurred and fruit has been set. But I don't think I've ever seen that small nub grow to the size shown in Scott's pictures in just 11 days.
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Old July 14, 2012   #29
ScottinAtlanta
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You know, that's a possibility. I didn't see the green nubbin until we were a few days into the heat, but I might have missed the early signs. You might well be right.
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