Should I be worried?

JetStar1 · February 20, 2015

I have planted from seed for a number of years. This winter, I decided to try grafting. I received some rootstock for Christmas and decided that I should practice before "go" time. I set the seeds on New Year's Day, grafted ~ three weeks later. Although I lost a few, the plants that did take looked pretty good, until I transplanted them. Shortly after the transplant, the lower leaves started to turn yellow (see picture)

The scion seed came from my recent harvest and while I did spray (daconil) as a preventative measure. The plants that these seeds came from did not appear to have any issues. My rootstock was purchased, so I am assuming it was disease free. The transplanting potting mix was previously used in my flower boxes. I am using 6500K fluorescent lights @ 16 hours each day in my basement.

I am trying to determine if I should be concerned, or if this is a nutrient issue. I don't normally keep my seedlings this ling before they are in their permanent homes. This was just a test run, but any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Cole_Robbie · February 20, 2015

It looks nutrient-related to me. It could be caused by a lot of different problems, though. I have had plants look similar when their mix got too mucky and the roots didn't grow well, especially in cooler weather. You might try more perlite in your mix, or less frequent waterings, or maybe raise your temperature if it is cool. The pythium bacteria that cause root rot like it cool, wet, and mucky. And rotten roots will express themselves as nutrient deficiencies. I can't tell for sure if that's your problem; just food for thought. Good luck with them.

AlittleSalt · February 20, 2015

The lowest branch turning yellow. The same happened to nine of mine. I started introducing MG plant food at 10% recommended rate a few days ago, and then a 50% rate today (Bottom watering) Three plants lost that bottom (Tiny) branch, and the other six are looking better. It seems that they are hungry.

It's my first year of growing from seed, but so far, this is working for me.

maf · February 21, 2015

Sounds like a nutrient issue. Using second hand potting mix from your flower boxes will not have helped.

KarenO · February 21, 2015

Is that a jiffy pellet showing? I would take it back out, cut off all the lower leaves and replant it, in new potting soil so that all of the stem is buried up to the top leaves. Wait one week then fertilize. They will take off.
KarenO

jmsieglaff · February 21, 2015

If he does that won't the scion potentially root thereby negating the benefit of grafting onto different rootstock? At the very least the peat pot shouldn't be exposed to the air.

Blueaussi · February 21, 2015

I think the coating of the peat pellet should either be removed, or at the very least ripped. That fiber-type cover over the pellet does not degrade well; and, in my experience, it can slow root growth and spread. Peat pellets used to come with more of a net cover that tore easily, but that fiber cover looks a lot like weed paper, and it does not degrade or rip as easily. I use peat pots to start some of my tomatoes and lots of my flowers, but I never leave the cover intact when transplanting.

KarenO · February 21, 2015

I'm not a grafter, but why would roots coming from the scion, in addition to the rootstock roots be a negative thing? Either that or could you graft onto a longer rootstock stem?
KO

frdlturner · February 21, 2015

the reason that roots would form from the scion is that any part of the tomato stems that are in the soil will root.. Say the plant is 12 in tall and you transplanted it you would bury the plant all the way up to the bottom of the top leaves that way the part buried would produce roots and then give you a better plant.

JamesL · February 21, 2015

Good job! You got this far!
Would agree with it being a nutrient / uptake issue.
Could be the peat pot, could be an issue with the graft.
Repot, check and fix any root bound issues. Feed if there isn't any food in there.

As to burying the graft or not - it only matters if you are grafting to combat soil issues.
If the scion is allowed to root, it has no resistance to what you are trying to combat so the plant is more susceptible.
If you are only grafting to improve vigor, the more roots the merrier, scion or rootstock.

JetStar1 · February 21, 2015

Thanks everyone for the help. This was just a test plant and isn't going to make it into my garden anyway. I was most concerned with the yellowing leaves. When I start my real plants, I'll take some of the advice on here. Cutting the fiber net, using fresh potting mix and burying the plant a little deeper. Not too deep so the scion doesn't send out roots. This would lose the disease resistance that the rootstock is supposed to provide.

After the MMMM and a few SASE swaps, I am itching to go. Come on spring!

JetStar1 · February 21, 2015

@JamesL - Thanks for the comment. I will be planting in a small garden (with disease issues) and EarthBoxes. I hadn't thought about being able to plant deep in my EBs, where soil borne diseases are not an issue.

February 20, 2015	#3
AlittleSalt BANNED FOR LIFE Join Date: May 2014 Posts: 13,333	The lowest branch turning yellow. The same happened to nine of mine. I started introducing MG plant food at 10% recommended rate a few days ago, and then a 50% rate today (Bottom watering) Three plants lost that bottom (Tiny) branch, and the other six are looking better. It seems that they are hungry. It's my first year of growing from seed, but so far, this is working for me. Last edited by AlittleSalt; February 20, 2015 at 11:00 PM.

February 21, 2015	#8
KarenO Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Vancouver Island Posts: 5,922	I'm not a grafter, but why would roots coming from the scion, in addition to the rootstock roots be a negative thing? Either that or could you graft onto a longer rootstock stem? KO Last edited by KarenO; February 21, 2015 at 02:42 PM.

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February 20, 2015	#2
Cole_Robbie Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Illinois, zone 6 Posts: 8,407	It looks nutrient-related to me. It could be caused by a lot of different problems, though. I have had plants look similar when their mix got too mucky and the roots didn't grow well, especially in cooler weather. You might try more perlite in your mix, or less frequent waterings, or maybe raise your temperature if it is cool. The pythium bacteria that cause root rot like it cool, wet, and mucky. And rotten roots will express themselves as nutrient deficiencies. I can't tell for sure if that's your problem; just food for thought. Good luck with them.

February 21, 2015	#4
maf Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: England Posts: 512	Sounds like a nutrient issue. Using second hand potting mix from your flower boxes will not have helped.

February 21, 2015	#6
jmsieglaff Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Southern WI Posts: 2,742	If he does that won't the scion potentially root thereby negating the benefit of grafting onto different rootstock? At the very least the peat pot shouldn't be exposed to the air.

February 21, 2015	#7
Blueaussi Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: South Carolina Zone 8a Posts: 1,205	I think the coating of the peat pellet should either be removed, or at the very least ripped. That fiber-type cover over the pellet does not degrade well; and, in my experience, it can slow root growth and spread. Peat pellets used to come with more of a net cover that tore easily, but that fiber cover looks a lot like weed paper, and it does not degrade or rip as easily. I use peat pots to start some of my tomatoes and lots of my flowers, but I never leave the cover intact when transplanting.

February 21, 2015	#9
frdlturner Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Galena, MO Posts: 215	the reason that roots would form from the scion is that any part of the tomato stems that are in the soil will root.. Say the plant is 12 in tall and you transplanted it you would bury the plant all the way up to the bottom of the top leaves that way the part buried would produce roots and then give you a better plant.

February 21, 2015	#10
JamesL Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Long Island NY Posts: 1,992	Good job! You got this far! Would agree with it being a nutrient / uptake issue. Could be the peat pot, could be an issue with the graft. Repot, check and fix any root bound issues. Feed if there isn't any food in there. As to burying the graft or not - it only matters if you are grafting to combat soil issues. If the scion is allowed to root, it has no resistance to what you are trying to combat so the plant is more susceptible. If you are only grafting to improve vigor, the more roots the merrier, scion or rootstock.

February 21, 2015	#11
JetStar1 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Missouri Posts: 18	Thanks everyone for the help. This was just a test plant and isn't going to make it into my garden anyway. I was most concerned with the yellowing leaves. When I start my real plants, I'll take some of the advice on here. Cutting the fiber net, using fresh potting mix and burying the plant a little deeper. Not too deep so the scion doesn't send out roots. This would lose the disease resistance that the rootstock is supposed to provide. After the MMMM and a few SASE swaps, I am itching to go. Come on spring!