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Old April 9, 2008   #1
kimpossible
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Default Another Raised-Bed Issue

I'm adding several raised beds this year. I have been pricing materials. I have priced pressure=treated, since arsenic is supposedly no longer an issue. Still, it does not come in the height I would like (6" (which equals 5'5, and therefore I would want to double up on the boards.)

The quy at the lumberyard suggested 10" high "rough pine - one side finished" - not treated, but apparently you can treat with with a brushed-on preservative. It is substantially cheaper (1/4 the price).

Any opinions or experience with treating pine as to how long it may last - if it is worth it to go this route vs. spending 75% more, biting the bullet, and going pressure-treated? I guess the other issue to consider is that we do live in Canada - April to October are relatively mild to hot, and plenty humid during July & August, but then we have the rain, snow and sometimes harsh winter weather from about November to March.

I don't think I'll be living here 15 years hence, but I don't like the idea of re-building everything in 5 or so years time.
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Old April 9, 2008   #2
cottonpicker
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KIm........... 'scuse me, but I grew a garden in raised beds for years and NEVER had sides...wood, or otherwise..... simply piled the loose soil up into beds measuring 10 feet X 4 feet and I had 10 of them. Must have grown veggies that way for 20 years. I first saw the raised-bed method in CHINA back in 1981 when I visited my wife's relatives & I modeled after them. NO need for expensive $$ materials... just pile up the soil into beds every year & it works fine!! Saves water & fertilizer (compost).
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Old April 9, 2008   #3
Hilde
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Can you buy the lumber in the US? With the strong Canadian dollar it might be cheaper here. Prices here in WNY are $4.75 for a 2"x6"x8' at LenCo lumber, and 5.97 or so at the Home Depot. I just got some myself.

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Old April 9, 2008   #4
mresseguie
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Hi, Kim.

I have to agree with cottonpicker's post cuz you certainly can go without. If......you want to go with the rough boards though, treat the garden side of the boards with linseed oil. The linseed oil will help prevent water from penetrating the wood fibers, and bugs dislike it as well. I do not know how long an application of linseed oil will last.
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Old April 9, 2008   #5
kimpossible
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I have created raised beds without the supports - but of course they tend to lose their shape - unfortunately my garden area is in a low spot compared to the house/pool etc. (probably a good 12 or so feet lower. I find that the wind and rain take their toll, & I wanted the asthetics of distinct beds, with mulched paths for the wheelbarrow, etc. I like the idea of having narrow beds (2' wide) because I will be planting my maters in single rows, plus all the other veggies will be fairly adaptable to those dimensions. I guess I am tired of wasting foot after foot to foot traffic, compaction etc. I'm lucky because I have unlimited space to expand my veggie garden. Right now the area is 30'x60'. I have literally hundreds of feet in each direction to create my additional raised beds. I like the idea of making it interesting and asthetically pleasing, so I'm not afraid to spend a bit of money - but I would still like to be frugal and cost-effective. Eventually, my dream is to add a picket fence, a few arbour entrances, a bench & fountain etc. (Dream, dream, dream ... )
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Old April 9, 2008   #6
piegirl
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Kim - like cottonpicker, my beds do not have 'official' sides and are about the size mentioned. If you mulch the pathways and side with lawn clippings, the soil doesn't wash away. The clippings dry and form a mat of sorts or you could use straw. My raised beds are to get my plants above the never ending tree roots. I redig the paths each year (first I dig the edge of each bed) then throw the dirt on the bed, finish the bed and rake shaping the sides. Once in a great while a bed will wash down but not often. They are about 4 foot by 20-25 feet and I have five in the main garden. Tried tilling but the tree roots wrap around the tiller, stop, remove roots, till, stop. Just easier to dig.
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Old April 10, 2008   #7
creister
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I used cedar boards. I have also treated plywood myself with the brush on treatment. I used the plywood as a level surface to put a pool on. When I moved from that house, I gave them to a friend of mine. He built a deer blind that was still in great shape as far as the wood was concerned.

The only drawback to the treatment is the odor. Long lasting and distasteful. So far, the cedar boards are doing well, however, they are about twice the price. I only used 1 inch boards, as they are much more durable than pine lumber.
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Old April 10, 2008   #8
celticman
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My garden is on a slope with raised beds with clay. We average 40" of rain a year so something has to hold my dirt in place. I used Pine with 4 coats of tungoil. (Alot of work up frugal) It has lasted 8 years on the oldest one. I think they will hold their shape another 8 as very little rot has occured yet.
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Old April 10, 2008   #9
ddsack
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I use untreated pine 2x6's for beds either 4x8 ft or 4x12 ft in size. For my first beds years ago I could get rough cut lumber from local small sawmills. But since those have gone out of business, I just buy regular building lumber from Home Depot or whoever has it on sale.

I don't worry too much about it rotting away. Even after parts of the boards start to get mushy, it still holds the shape of the bed for a few years. When a side finally buckles and dirt starts to wash out, it's easy to replace the frame. Yank the old boards, dig the sides back a bit by tossing the dirt in the middle of the bed, and fit the new pre-built frame back into place, adjusting the dirt to make it level.

The boards seem to decompose at various rates. I still have a few of my original board beds from about 8 years ago, but had to start replacing a couple at about 5 years. I would imagine decomposition speed will vary on heat, humidity and moisture levels in your locality.

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Old April 10, 2008   #10
feldon30
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Whether you can skip the lumber has to do with soil type, rainfall numbers, etc. Here in Houston, if you skip the lumber, after our 72 hour monsoon rainstorms that drop 15-20 inches of rain, you will have 1" of good soil scattered across the yard, or worse it will all wash away down the storm drains.
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Old April 10, 2008   #11
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Kim, from you have described, including asthetics and your desire to create your own pretty little paradise, I suggest finished and treated lumber, even if you have to search more. I think of the pile of treated 2 X 12 X 12's I have and wish I could email you enough to get started!

I really believe you will be happier with nice, attractive, finished and treated lumber for your beds. As to the two foot widths, be sure that's what you want. I did a lot of 4 X 12's, and this year I made some 5 X 12's which I like a lot. More versatile. With that extra foot you can do melons and corn better, and of course my new passion, strawberries. If I did it all over I'd probably make them 5 x 16, using 12 inch treated material. There is no scientific evidence that I am aware of that treated lumber will leach harmful chemicals that effect the plant or you. At least that's the research I've seen. If it's still a concern you can always line it with visqueen.

Suze did hers a lot like what you are wanting. Maybe she could give you some additional advice. I do know I wish I had more spacing than 4' between beds. It can get mighty crowded when the plants are full size.

Good luck! Take your time and get what you want. You'll be a lot happier.

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