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Old March 18, 2011   #1
BigdaddyJ
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Default Seedcoats Sticking

Ok, I've only been starting tomato seeds for 20 years now and you'd think I'd know this already But what causes seadcoats to stick to cotyldons? Am I planting seed too shallow? (1/8 inch) Should I be using a humidity dome? (I hate those things) Also, I don't use lights or heat mats if they matter either. Some of these seeds are really stuck on themselves...
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Old March 18, 2011   #2
carolyn137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigdaddyJ View Post
Ok, I've only been starting tomato seeds for 20 years now and you'd think I'd know this already But what causes seadcoats to stick to cotyldons? Am I planting seed too shallow? (1/8 inch) Should I be using a humidity dome? (I hate those things) Also, I don't use lights or heat mats if they matter either. Some of these seeds are really stuck on themselves...
Think of the responses you'll get and there are many:

Seeds too old

Seeds too shallow

Seeds too deep

Not enough moisture, as in you didn't keep them watered well even tho they were sown at the proper depth

Your seed starting mix doesn't hold moisture well, here's what I use and it's much better

You should use a heat mat, or no you shouldn't

And I'm sure more explanations will appear.

I've rejected all of the above and just say it happens from time to time and when it does, I deal with it. And heaven knows I've tried all sorts of ways to get that seed coat off there, especially if it's a hard to get variety with few seeds even available.

But what works best for me is to just dab some spit on the seed coat, wait a bit, like an hour, dab again, wait a bit and then with a pair of tweezers gently pull if off. Spit is filled with enzymes that break down proteins and carbohydrates and I think that's why it works so well, at least for me.

Please don't use domes, please? I've seen more problems when folks use those domes as in baking the seeds and killing them, encouraging damping off if the proper spores are in the seed mix, and on and on. At least prop open the dome at one end for air circulation.
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Old March 18, 2011   #3
Irv Wiseguy
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Big Daddy J,

I'm glad you asked that question because I'm having the same issue with a few seedlings.

Thank you Carolyn for the detailed answer. I've heard of the spit method before but haven't been able to find specifics on how to properly spit on my seedlings.

Out of 6 "Seedheads" this year, I've only successfully pulled the seed off of one plant. The other 5 are now headless and I assume they are going to die. The shafts are still green but even after a couple weeks there's no sign of leaves growing.

Thanks,

Irv
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Old March 18, 2011   #4
Barbee
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I use the spit method too. Tastes oooky, but it works!

My method:
Get a good ol spit going in your mouth. Take your thumb and forefinger on either hand and grab your tongue and pull a nice wad of spit off and transfer it to the seed coat. Move on the the next seed coat. You will make a sour face between spit grabbings I promise
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Old March 18, 2011   #5
rxkeith
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what i have noticed with some of my stickies, is the cotyledons are damaged or missing, and what's left doesn't have the strength or mass to push off the seed coat. happens more often with some of my older seeds. i've rescued some plants by keeping the seed coat moist with a spray bottle, and gently teasing the seed coat off. decapitated my share too. unless its my only one or two to sprout, i usually let them go, and fend for themselves. survival of the fittest.


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Old March 18, 2011   #6
carolyn137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irv Wiseguy View Post
Big Daddy J,

I'm glad you asked that question because I'm having the same issue with a few seedlings.

Thank you Carolyn for the detailed answer. I've heard of the spit method before but haven't been able to find specifics on how to properly spit on my seedlings.

Out of 6 "Seedheads" this year, I've only successfully pulled the seed off of one plant. The other 5 are now headless and I assume they are going to die. The shafts are still green but even after a couple weeks there's no sign of leaves growing.

Thanks,

Irv
Irv, you don't spit AT the seed coats, you do what Barbee described. Spit is also used for saliva, and it's the saliva you want to dab on the seed coats, and I did use the word dab above.
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Old March 18, 2011   #7
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The key is to get the seed coat wet. The spit method mentioned above is doing just that. But, I don't relish the ugly flavor that would generate.

I've had a lot of seed coats hanging on this year for some reason. Here's what I've been doing with great success. If you're using flats, then put one of the plastic domes on. Leave it for a few hours and the humidity level will help the little plants get rid of half or better of the sticky hulls. The other method that works well for me is to take a squeeze-type squirt bottle and carefully get the seed coat to retain half a drop of water. This will soak in and soften up the hull. An eyedropper with a small hole will also do the job of placing half a drop on the seed coat. I can even imagine a water pistol with a good slow pull that will put out half a drop.

If you can get the seed hull wet and soft, you can VERY gently remove the seed coat with your fingers or some tweezers. If it doesn't come off VERY easily, then squirt some more water on and try again after a few minutes. Each time you soften up the hull, the little plant expands a bit and you'll see a little more green.

Out of 1500 plants so far, I haven't lost the first one. Some take a couple of days, but most are done in a few minutes.

Hope this helps

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Old March 18, 2011   #8
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Carolyn I hate those domes too so no worries, I won't start now. Had a bad case of damp off many years ago with them. And I also use the spit method and yes it works about 80% of the time. I was just wondering that if I planted deeper that would help but I guess not. I also noticed a slight more stick with older seed. None of my seed was old this year and I just had more stickers than usual. All my varieties have produced at least one healthy seedling though so I'm good to go and I'm a happy seeder! Even though none have true leaves yet they spent the entire day outside in the beautiful mid 70 sunshine and are looking fine...;-)
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Old March 18, 2011   #9
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I have good luck w/ others have mentioned and that is to keep the seed coat damp. I will then carefully use a sewing needle to move the coat or open the coat off.
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Old March 18, 2011   #10
Mark0820
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BigdaddyJ,

I'm glad you asked this question. I have a few seed coats that stick every year, but like yourself, it seems to be a much bigger problem for me this year.

I don't mind when the seed coat sticks to the end of the cotyledon. I can deal with that. What irritates me is when the cotyledon doesn't develop under the seed coat, and all I am left with is a stem with a seed coat on top.
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Old March 18, 2011   #11
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Yeah, when the coty's don't develop they are goners. You don't even have a hope of "spit surgery"...
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Old March 19, 2011   #12
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For really stubborn seed coats, I use the wet-with-a-drop-of-spit method, but then take a teeny-tiny piece of saran wrap and fold that over the spit head so it soaks and can't dry out. Later, in the next hour, I use a straitened safety pin to tease the seed case off. Sometimes I feel like a micro surgeon trying to tear the seed case without damaging the folded cots. I have a piece of red yarn tied to the safety pin, or I'd always be losing it.
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Old March 19, 2011   #13
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If the seed coat is really stuck and you're on the last seed of the variety and need it to grow, you can also try snipping off the tiniest edge of the seed coat with a nail clippers and then adding a drop of water to what's left. Pepper seeds have tougher coats, and I've had them just grow through this hole, with the seed coat left intact until the stem grows large enough to split the coat. It doesn't work every time or if you cut too deeply, but it's worth a try if you're desperate.
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Old March 19, 2011   #14
BigdaddyJ
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Great answers here from self taught seed surgeons! LOL! I actually did have a scare last week. I had about 8 seeds left that Minnie Zac sent me years ago. Last year I started 5 of them and only one germinated but it was a mule cursed without cotes and RIP'ed. So I was down to three seeds this year and only 1 germinated but it had a sticky seed coat. I spit it off and the seedling is doing well. These seeds were from a 5.5 pounder she said and wrote F1 on the envelope. I am really happy that I have a good chance now to save seed from this plant. Something I should have done years ago but hadn't realized my supply was that low...
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Old March 24, 2011   #15
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This is my first year starting my own tomato seedlings and I seem to have an epidemic of this problem. Hopefully I can get at least one plant per variety to pull through surgery.
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