Tomatoville® Gardening Forums


Notices

Information and discussion regarding garden diseases, insects and other unwelcome critters.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old July 3, 2010   #31
Timmah!
Tomatovillian™
 
Timmah!'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Elizabethtown, Kentucky 6a
Posts: 754
Default

Order some Exel while you're at it. =)

Daconil should be 29.6% concentration. It's available as a liquid concentrate. Spray every 7-10 days, unless it rains, then reapply. If disease pressure is more severe, every 5-7 days? Thorough uniform coverage is advised. Use 1 tablespoon per gallon.

Here's a link to a 29.6% product concentration use label: http://www.bestnest.com/bestnest/img_p/BOP-879.pdf
Timmah! is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 3, 2010   #32
RandyG
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: western North Carolina
Posts: 84
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Timmah! View Post
I agree Duckfan. By the way, that would be Dihydrogen Monoxide, Dihydrogen Oxide, et al. Hydrogen Dioxide is another name for hydrogen peroxide. =)


From a terminology standpoint, water is more correctly referred to as the chemical compound hydrogen hydroxide since it has the OH hydroxyl ion in combination with the H ion. Other common hydroxides are calcium (CaOH), sodium (NaOH), and potassium (KOH) hydroxides. Hydroxides are moderate to strong basic compounds and react violently with acids to form water and a salt giving off a lot of energy in the process. For example NaOH reacts with hydrochloric acid (HCl) to produce water (hydrogen hydroxide) and sodium chloride (NaCl). The pH of water is neutral because the negative charge on the OH ion is balanced by the positive charge on the H ion. Hydrogen hydroxide is an extremely stable compound because of the bonding and shape of the molecule. That's why it takes so much energy to separate hydrogen from the oxygen in water.
RandyG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 3, 2010   #33
duckfan
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Long Island formerly zone 6
Posts: 61
Default

You're right, I had a brain fart. I must be the sun beating down on my bald head.
duckfan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 3, 2010   #34
duckfan
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Long Island formerly zone 6
Posts: 61
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tjg911 View Post
okay i can't believe i am saying this but i'm going to try daconil.

the reason i have decided is i found this post by carolyn from last year and it says a few things that i needed to read. her comment is #5 in this link http://idigmygarden.com/forums/showthread.php?p=317569

now i have a couple of questions about this since i know nothing about this product.

(1) it sounds like you use this after every rain or every 5-7 days if it does not rain?

(2) i like concentrates because they are more cost effective. can i buy daconil as a liquid concentrate (i hate powders)?

(3) how long will liquid concentrate last? for example i have bt concentrate from the mid 90's and it's still effective when kept in a cool dark place.

(4) i'm guessing you really drench the plant when spraying it? i assume this means under the leaves as well as the top leaf surfaces?

(5) are there products with chlorothalonil that should be avoided? are there products with chlorothalonil that are better than others? please cite names.

i'll re-read this thread and try to glean info now that i am willing to try daconil. i think i'd better buy it now before everyone is trying to get it and it's not available. i also hope the concentrate will store for a couple of years and i'll get a quart. like i stated in my original comment in keith's thread if i can't have tomatoes what's the use of summer, this product seems to be somewhat safe based upon carolyn's comments and i'm going to die of something anyway!

tom
1) that's correct
2) Yes Otho makes it and it's relatively cheap. I got it at Home Depot
3) Can't answer that one. It's cheap enough that I can buy a pint a year without breaking the bank.
4) Yes
5) Stay with the Ortho and you won't have to worry about it.


There is another strategy. If it bothers you to use it you can take a gamble and not use it. There is a website that will provide you with the tools to make an intelligent bet. Late Blight is weather dependent. You need three things to get Late Blight, all must be present:
1) A susceptible plant, in this case the tomato plant
2) The presence of the disease
3) Cool, damp weather for a specific time period. These periods are referred to as Smith
Periods. A Google search will give you a better explanation of Smith Periods than I can.

Go to this site:
http://uspest.org/risk/tom_pot_map

Zoom in to your location on the map. It will tell you what the conditions were three days ago and if the disease is present. Click on the ballon that's closest to your location. It will then give you a chart showing the likelyhood of the disease for a one week period. If your location doesn't show the disease as present and the weather prediction indicates the the conditions for the development of the disease are unfavorable for the next 3 to 4 days you can take a chance and skip spraying. It's a guess and it doesn't positively eliminate the risk but it's an educated guess and it may be worth it if you're uncomfortable using daconil. I don't like to use any chemical unless it's necessary. I have the Daconil and it's ready to go but the USpest website indicates my risk is very low now and for the next few days. I'm not going to use the Daconil until I have to.

One thing to remember. Daconil is a pre-emptive strike. It must be used before the disease strikes. It will not work on sick plants. If they get it, it's over. They can not be cured. Don't waste your time and the chemical. Pull the plants and dispose of them.
duckfan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 3, 2010   #35
VORTREKER
Tomatovillian™
 
VORTREKER's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Pottsboro Texas 7B-8A TRANSITION ZONE
Posts: 77
Default Common sense?

LOL--There was a guy years ago that collected 8,000 signatures in one week supporting an immediate ban of hydroxylic acid and dihydrogen monoxide in California.
A rumor has it that the signatories then went off and got hired by the EPA--but only after the EPA required a drug test and they had to fail it.

Beam me up Scotty--this earth asylum has been taken over by the inmates.
__________________
Have you gardened all of your life? Not yet.
VORTREKER is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 4, 2010   #36
Timmah!
Tomatovillian™
 
Timmah!'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Elizabethtown, Kentucky 6a
Posts: 754
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyG View Post
From a terminology standpoint, water is more correctly referred to as the chemical compound hydrogen hydroxide since it has the OH hydroxyl ion in combination with the H ion. Other common hydroxides are calcium (CaOH), sodium (NaOH), and potassium (KOH) hydroxides. Hydroxides are moderate to strong basic compounds and react violently with acids to form water and a salt giving off a lot of energy in the process. For example NaOH reacts with hydrochloric acid (HCl) to produce water (hydrogen hydroxide) and sodium chloride (NaCl). The pH of water is neutral because the negative charge on the OH ion is balanced by the positive charge on the H ion. Hydrogen hydroxide is an extremely stable compound because of the bonding and shape of the molecule. That's why it takes so much energy to separate hydrogen from the oxygen in water.
"From a terminology standpoint, water is more correctly referred to as the chemical compound hydrogen hydroxide"

Hence the 'et al.' in my statement. et al. = & others. It can be correctly called several, because water is amphoteric & can be classified as either an acid or a base & named accordingly. The IUPAC name is oxidane.

"...since it has the OH hydroxyl ion in combination with the H ion"

Actually both hydrogen atoms are in a covalent bond to Oxygen, not ionic. If there is a hydroxyl ion, it's because the water molecule proper has dissociated, resulting in the hydroxide ion & the associated hydronium cation.

Specifically considering the chemical nature of water molecule, it's dipole; the oxygen end being negative & the two hydrogen end being positive.

"The pH of water is neutral because the negative charge on the OH ion is balanced by the positive charge on the H ion."

As above, it is because of the balance of hydroxide (-OH), hydronium ions (H3O+), & hydrogen ions (H+) in solution that determines the neutral ph of water.
Timmah! is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 5, 2010   #37
tjg911
Tomatovillian™
 
tjg911's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: zone 5b northwest connecticut
Posts: 2,570
Default

all home depot sells is a 32 oz spray bottle no concentrate, i'd need 3 or 4 bottles to spray once!

i found this info on the internet "This product has been recently re-named by Ortho. Once known as Ortho Multi-Purpose Fungicide (Daconil 2787), it is now known as Ortho® Garden Disease Control " and i assume this the right stuff?

tom
__________________
I need a hero
I’m holding out for a hero ‘til the end of the night
He’s gotta be strong
And he’s gotta be fast
And he’s gotta be fresh from the fight
I need a hero
I’m holding out for a hero ‘til the morning light
He’s gotta be sure
And it’s gotta be soon
And he’s gotta be larger than life
tjg911 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 5, 2010   #38
Timmah!
Tomatovillian™
 
Timmah!'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Elizabethtown, Kentucky 6a
Posts: 754
Default

That would do the trick. Have you tried other stores such as Lowes, Ace Hardware, Walmart, etc.? If anything, as a resort you could order online:
http://www.amazon.com/Gulfstream-Gar...pd_sim_dbs_k_2
Timmah! is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 5, 2010   #39
danwigz
Tomatovillian™
 
danwigz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 150
Default

I want to thank whom ever mentioned the Ortho to begin with (I'm too lazy to re-read the thread right now).

I was wondering how I was going to find enough money to buy enough Daconil Spray bottles to apply to my plants. After going to my local home depot, and examining the Ortho Garden Disease Control I realized that would do the trick.

I sprayed this weekend, and man, a little goes a long way, so happy to have this concentrate!

Thanks!

Danwigz
danwigz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 9, 2010   #40
Talon1189
Tomatovillian™
 
Talon1189's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Farmington, Michigan. Zone 5b/6a
Posts: 421
Default

I have read this whole thread and then more. I have sprayed my 5 plants with Daconil today and feel proud that "early or late blight" will NOT kick my butt this season >>>>>>>>>>>>>> Talon
__________________
Always looking for a better way to grow tomatoes ..........
Talon1189 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 9, 2010   #41
duckfan
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Long Island formerly zone 6
Posts: 61
Default

The weatherman predicted the spores would start forming in my area today. I sprayed yesterday.
duckfan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 9, 2010   #42
Talon1189
Tomatovillian™
 
Talon1189's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Farmington, Michigan. Zone 5b/6a
Posts: 421
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by duckfan View Post
The weatherman predicted the spores would start forming in my area today. I sprayed yesterday.
Do you feel guilty for spraying your plants with Daconil?? I do NOT! >>>>>>>>>>>>Talon


















i
__________________
Always looking for a better way to grow tomatoes ..........
Talon1189 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 10, 2010   #43
duckfan
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Long Island formerly zone 6
Posts: 61
Default

Last year I felt guilty so I didn't use it and I lost almost my entire crop. I did more research on it over the winter and found it's not as bad as some of the OG zealots would have you believe. I found that a lot of their 'organic' sprays were just as bad or worse than chlorothalonil. Chlorothalonil is not as toxic to earthworms and other beneficial creatures as some of the stuff they use. You gain nothing by using their ineffective organic methods and may in fact be causing more harm.
I find this is a common occurrence with the Environmental crowd. Does anyone remember MTBE? They put it in gasoline to improve the air quality and wound up destroying our groundwater. Good thinking there Sherlock. I love the EPA. What a bunch of maroons.
I've never seen a need to use organic fertilizers. The plants just see the nutrients, they don't care where they come from and none of the OG folks gives a second thought to the salmonella and other nasty things they're spreading in their garden along with the manure. I decided to follow the directions given by the real experts and have a full tomato crop this year. Although I don't think the world will end if I use chlorothalonil, I will still be making every attempt to limit its use. I do that with everything that goes in my garden..
duckfan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 10, 2010   #44
tjg911
Tomatovillian™
 
tjg911's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: zone 5b northwest connecticut
Posts: 2,570
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Timmah! View Post
That would do the trick. Have you tried other stores such as Lowes, Ace Hardware, Walmart, etc.? If anything, as a resort you could order online:
http://www.amazon.com/Gulfstream-Gar...pd_sim_dbs_k_2
i had a list of about 12 places! blue seal feed and grain and agway were the only 2 i found that had the concentrate and then i stopped calling. many places have just a 32 oz spray bottle! imagine buying a 32 oz spray bottle? what the heck is that going to do? i never used this but i suspect it'd do 2 maybe 3 plants one time! it cost about $6.60, i bought the concentrate 16 oz for $19, 2.5 teaspoons makes 1 gallon.

i have yet to use it as it's been hot, full sun and no rain since 6/24. the next 6 days have rain in most days but those are t storms so they may not happen. i'm gambling that with the hot dry weather and virtually no LB i can wait. i know once infected but last year it took 7 weeks of virtually rain every day (98% of those days) sometimes multiple times per day, no sun and very cool weather with lots of infected plants in the north before i got hit. so i think i can wait since i really hope to not need this.

i wonder exactly what products that organic gardeners use that are worse than daconil? i'm og and i don't use anything other bt and seldom at that. people have used compost and especially manure for centuries so i don't buy that it's worse than a fungicide.

tom
__________________
I need a hero
I’m holding out for a hero ‘til the end of the night
He’s gotta be strong
And he’s gotta be fast
And he’s gotta be fresh from the fight
I need a hero
I’m holding out for a hero ‘til the morning light
He’s gotta be sure
And it’s gotta be soon
And he’s gotta be larger than life
tjg911 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 10, 2010   #45
duckfan
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Long Island formerly zone 6
Posts: 61
Default

Hopefully you're not to close to Torrington. The weather conditions there are ideal for LB.

http://uspest.org/risk/models?sta=C2522&mdl=tplb

P.S. Fertilizers and fungicides are two different topics. There's no way to compare the two.
duckfan is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:41 AM.


★ Tomatoville® is a registered trademark of Commerce Holdings, LLC ★ All Content ©2022 Commerce Holdings, LLC ★