Do you rotate?

[Worth1]

Here is a tip for you guys up north and for us in the south with annual rye grass and other crops like it.
You can sow or spread just about as early as you want and the seeds will stay dormant until the temperatures drop to the point they can germinate.
Seeds like clover are best worked into the soil.
So dont worry to much about how early you plant just worry about being too late.

Right now all of the annual rye I planted several years ago is sprouting where I didn't mow to keep it from seeding.
The places I didn't water the seeds didn't sprout due to a drought and it sprouted the next year or so.
The seeds I bought in a 50 pound bag at the feed store for way cheaper than Lowes or HD.
This stuff is really good at choking out unwanted winter weeds here.

For smaller or even larger plots you can simple keep it mowed or clipped until the heat kills it back.
This will keep it from seeding in the summer.
Even if it does go to seed it wont matter the place will just look weedy for a while.

Worth

[Gardeneer]

I have known an older gardener up in CT, who used to do fall clean up real early and plant rye. The rye would be an inch or so before the frost and snow. Then in the spring ( April ?) he would plow the gardens, mixing all the green rye into soil . He used to do that every year until he died. Bless your soul, Ross !.

Gardeneer

[jmsieglaff]

Originally Posted by Misfit

jm, I planted everything except the rye and vetch on 9/21. Rye and vetch maybe 10 days after? I knew it was late getting in the ground, but thought I had nothing to lose.

From what I've read on the Maryland ag extension. You should sow a minimum of 6-8 weeks before your first frost. I was playing with 4-6 weeks, and had to cover twice for below freezing temps. Late plantout and the changing sunlight hitting my garden (it get's a lot of shade now) were the culprits. I would have started earlier, but didn't want anything competing with my tomatoes.

Lesson learned. Next year, late August, or early September should do the trick.

-Jimmy

Thanks for the info. I don't think a cover crop is doable in my location (southern WI, our first freeze date is early Oct and that's about when I remove tomatoes), so I don't think the seeds would have time to take off after I pull the tomatoes.

[Misfit]

jm, I think that you can plant a cover in Wi. I know that some farmers are doing a cover mix in North Dakota. Worth's advice is spot on. Get it in early. if it's in late, and doesn't sprout it will come up in the Spring.

I also know that some farmers are working cover crops into their main cash crops. I should have done it with my toms.; will do next year.

A lot of studies are being conducted on cover crops right now. So the science is becoming more readily available. There are some small trade offs, I believe. A couple might include later production, or smaller yields.

I think the trade off would be worth it. High biomass, equates to better tilth, and soil health. That in it's own "might" help those (like me) who don't practice crop rotation.

The Md. ag. extension reports that hairy vetch is a good cover to grow, before your tomato crop. Especially in a mixed blend. Planted in the fall it will winter kill, or die back. But, it will come back in the Spring. To get the most out of it's nutrients, mow, cut, or till after it has gone to flower.

-Jimmy

[Zenbaas]

Originally Posted by Gardeneer

Me too. I call them raised beds .
Plus I have never had any wilt/soil borne problems, ever. I get molds.

Another +1 from me on both accounts. Powdery being my arch nemesis for the last 3 years now.

[Gardeneer]

Originally Posted by Zenbaas

Another +1 from me on both accounts. Powdery being my arch nemesis for the last 3 years now.

Try this home remedy. It is cheap and safe:
30% milk , 70% water.
Do it regularly and as often as you want. But better to start using it before you get the PM. I have a theory that the protein in milk coats the foliage. This is the same as
any spray with some kind of oil in it, like NEEM.

Gardeneer

[Zenbaas]

Originally Posted by Gardeneer

Try this home remedy. It is cheap and safe:
30% milk , 70% water.
Do it regularly and as often as you want. But better to start using it before you get the PM. I have a theory that the protein in milk coats the foliage. This is the same as
any spray with some kind of oil in it, like NEEM.

Gardeneer

Any specific times this should be done...? (eg. Morning or late afternoon etc.)