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Old February 4, 2007   #1
missionrandy
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Default Germinating Pepper Seed

Could a few members give their best method of germinating pepper seeds! There are a few methods used, some very simple, some more complex... Please give your method!

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Old February 5, 2007   #2
wilderness1989
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Use good potting soil and and a heating pad to bring the soil to 75 degrees F. Use a thermometer to check the temp. and keep the soil damp but not soaked. I water from the bottom after the plants get going. You will need good lighting, I use 4' fluorescents about 2" above the plants and leave them on about 18 hours a day.
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Old February 5, 2007   #3
Worth1
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Sounds good to me.
You have to keep the soil temps up.
I have great luck just planting them in good soil and sraying them with water to keep the soil moist.

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Old February 6, 2007   #4
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I surface sow in cells under a clear plastic dome with bottom heat of 86°F using s soil less mix (ProMix BX) When radicle appears I cover the seed with a little more ProMix.
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Old February 6, 2007   #5
grungy
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Default Germjnating Pepper Seeds

the fastest way I have found yet, is to soak them in lukewarm water for about 4 hours and then plant them in warm soil with bottom heat. Last year I had peppers up in 4 days.

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Old February 6, 2007   #6
landarc
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I also use a soiless seed starting mix with a heating pad to keep soil temps up. I have found that moisture control is important, just enough to keep the seed moist, it is easy to drown the seed. Then bottom water for the seedlings.
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Old February 6, 2007   #7
missionrandy
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I was told by a pepper grower that they soak their seeds in a mild solution of Baking Soda and room temperature water for a half hour to an hour. Then rinsed with room temperature water. Suppose to kill off any infection(if any) on the outer seed and soften the seed enough to help speed up germination.

Seems to work well for them, with high germination rates. They also use a heating mat under their flats...

Checked into the Baking Soda idea, and it is recognized as part of the National Organic Program for riding seed of outer infection, same with bulbs. Technically it would soften up the outer case of the pepper seed too...

Interesting!


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Old February 23, 2007   #8
darlochileman
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Hi Missionrandy,

The biggest determinant of the germination rate is the quality of the seed. Buy only from reputatble suppliers which should ensure you grow what you think you are growing. Watch out for any which are cracked, discoloured or deformed.Dark spots on seeds can be a sign of disease.

Chile growers & Seed companies use various techniques in an attempt to increase germination rates. Amongst the most common are Physical Scarification & Chemical Pre soaking:

With Physical Scarification, the idea is to either remove part of; or thin the outer seed casing to aid germination. This can be done either with a sharp knife or a piece of abrasive sandpaper.

With Chemical scarification (pre soaking) the idea is to either soften the seed casing or mimic the chemical process of a birds digestive system, natures way of encouraging seed germination. It is an area of much myth and folklore amongst chile growers and involves soaking seeds in a range of chemical substances ranging from exotic hormone solutions such as gibberellic acid (GA3) to ordinary tap water, weak tea and even pigeon droppings.

Ive found that simply soaking seeds in ordinary tap water overnight to soften the outer seed case is just as effective as any fancy chemical treatments for most varieties. Rinsing them in Vinegar will also help reduce problems associated with seed borne diseases. The 'Tea Bag method' referred to by herne_the_hunter is very good for helping along difficult to germinate seeds (like some on the Chinese varieties (Naga, Chocolate Hab etc)

Now we move on the environment factors. Three inparticular are important:

1. The growing medium (whether it be soil, rock wool or hydro)
Chile peppers prefer to grow in light, well-drained soil where the pH level is around 6 (slightly acidic). The roots of young plants also need air as much as they need sufficient heat & moisture. The addition of perlite or vermiculite to sterile soil mixtures helps to stop compaction and improve soil aeration. When starting seeds, you should also avoid soil mixtures that are rich in added salts, bone meal or other fertilisers as these can burn tender young roots. Although everyone has there own special soil mix, I prefer five parts peat free seed compost mixed with one part of Vermiculite and one part of Perlite. Dontuse garden soil or previously opened compost that has spent half of its life stored in the shed. Both are likely to contain weeds, bugs and fungal pathogens which will kill off your little seedlings almost as soon as theyve sprouted.

A another common cause of failure is sowing seed too deeply. A seed has only enough food within itself for a limited period of growth and a tiny seed sown too deeply soon expends that energy and dies before it can reach the surface. A tip is to place the seeds on the soil surface and use an plant pot (with holes in the bottom) to gently sieve your soil mixture over the seeds, covering them to a depth of 2 to 3mm.

2. Moisture
During the germination process seeds take in water and begin to swell until the tiny seedlings emerges from the seed case and begin to make their own food by photosynthesis. Although moisture is essential to the germination process, the growing medium used should be damp not wet. Wet & waterlogged environments encourage damping off and mould formation and seeds are more likely to rot than germinate.

3. Soil Temperature
Chile plants, like their genetic cousins the tomato, are a warm season crop. This means that as well as a moist environment, chile seeds need sufficient warmth to break their dormancy. However, even under optimum conditions the germination process can be slow and irregular as the degree of dormancy varies considerably between species.

The tropical origins of the wild and chinense species in particular tend to have the strongest dormancy, expressed by their slower germination times (often up to 6 weeks) and higher soil temperature requirements (75oF-90oF). On the other hand, seeds of the annuum species; which includes bell peppers and many of the ornamental varieties have a much weaker degree of dormancy and will germinate readily even at lower temperatures (50oF -75oF).

Whatever the species, as a general rule you should aim to keep the temperature between 75oF- 90oF (24oC-32oC) with the optimum believed to be around 85oF. Light is not critical to the germination process, but a heat source is. A seed propagator, an airing cupboard, on the top of the refrigerator or even an old electric blanket are good places to create good germintions conditions.

A more detialed guide is available on the chileman site (www.thechileman.org) . Good luck. If you have any further questions, just ask.

Mark
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Old February 25, 2007   #9
missionrandy
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darlochileman,

Thank-you Mark for all your detailed information! I learnt something from what you wrote...

Over 70% of the Pepper seeds I had in germination, are growing well under lights. I had most of the problems with seed from a certain seed company(not naming), and most likely immature seed from a trader. The rest are great though!

Will post my results in the Gallery as the season goes along!

Thanks,
Randy
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