Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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November 28, 2011 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: South East Pennsylvania 6b
Posts: 9
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Recommendations on where to have soil tested?
Can anyone recommend where to have my soil tested? I vaguely remember seeing that Cornell had the best coverage for the cost, but when I went to the website it looks different and seems to be for large growers. It also only accepts soil for a short window in the spring. I always forget then and would like to have mine tested now while I am not as garden-busy. Is there any reason soil should only be tested in the spring instead? I am interested in the basic tests but also for a place that will test for contaminates.
Thank you for any help, Bellatrix |
November 29, 2011 | #2 | |
Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Upstate NY, zone 4b/5a
Posts: 21,169
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Quote:
So do let you local Coop Ext give you advice first.
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Carolyn |
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November 29, 2011 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 1,150
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I use Logan Labs in Ohio and heartily recommend them. I've never tested for contaminates, but they are a "full-service" lab and may well work in that area as well.
In any event, I would suggest finding a lab that uses the "base saturation test." This test determines the Cation Exchange Capacity (often abbreviated CEC or TEC) which is the soil's ability to adsorb or "hold" nutrients. This is important because a sandy soil and a heavy clay soil are vastly different and, when it comes to nutrients, "enough" or "too much" for one may not apply to the other. The CEC is then used to calculate the % base saturation of each of the major macronutrients (e.g. calcium, magnesium, etc.) and several of the important trace elements. Not all labs use the base saturation method, but IMO, it provides the necessary data for informed decision-making. In answer to your question regarding timing, Fall is a fine time to test--as is Spring. Some say that your Fall numbers (i.e. nutrients) will be lower post-harvest and then recover somewhat by Spring. But I haven't found this to be significant and I like the flexibility of adding some amendments in the Fall. Testing in both the Fall and Spring is even better. At $20 per test, it can get expensive if you have a lot of beds with different soils. If you have one big garden that only requires one test, it's obviously going to be more economical. One final word. If you find a lab you like, stick with them for the sake of consistency. Soil tests are part art and part science and will vary from lab to lab--even those using the same tests and extractions. I've attached a copy of one of my soil tests so you can see the information provided. Good luck! |
November 29, 2011 | #4 |
Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Upstate NY, zone 4b/5a
Posts: 21,169
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41, if you think I can read that list, well, I can't.
But I can tell you I have a water rerport here that was done by the man who owned my home for only two years before I bought it and he had a womb to tomb report done that cost him a few thousand dollars and is many pages long. And other than the obvious with water reports this one had assays for contaminants you can't believe, all b'c I'm in dairy country here and local farmers grow lots of corn and use all sorts of products. But the report came back fine as far as potability/contaminants and probably b'c I'm up off the valley floor and my well is 80 ft deep in rock, thank heavens. My house sits on rock as well and to site the house near the brook and waterfall they had to do a lot of dynamiting. I know the whole history of my home b'c when I bought it the wife who with her husband had this home built was still alive and shared with me some wonderful stories and pictures she gave to me. Craig L, who was here in early summer can tell you about the unit for the large front hexagon which was sent from Oregon and a huge crane set it in place here. But I ramble when I shouldn't.
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Carolyn |
November 29, 2011 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: New York State
Posts: 286
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You do mean Pennsylvania State University (Penn State), and not the University of Pennsylvania, right? Two completely different institutions.
http://www.aasl.psu.edu/SSFT.HTM
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"The best thing about a vegetable garden is all the meat you can shoot and trap out of it!" |
November 29, 2011 | #6 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: New York State
Posts: 286
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Quote:
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"The best thing about a vegetable garden is all the meat you can shoot and trap out of it!" |
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November 29, 2011 | #7 | |
Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Upstate NY, zone 4b/5a
Posts: 21,169
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Quote:
Yes, I do know they're different in that if the University even has a football team it isn't as good as Penn State's team. Sorry, I just couldn't help myself with that one.
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Carolyn |
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January 4, 2012 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: South East Pennsylvania 6b
Posts: 9
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Thanks everyone! I may hold off until spring. The warm weather let me procrastinate, but with 14F last night the ground is probably frozen solid now. Sigh.
Thanks again, Bellatrix |
March 3, 2014 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Ohio
Posts: 33
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I wouldn't understand why it is frozen by now as cold as it's been there this year.
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