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Old September 8, 2016   #16
b54red
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Wilbur next year you need to try Indian Stripe PL, Pruden's Purple, Margaret Curtain, and Arkansas Traveler for your late summer and fall tomatoes. The first two varieties I listed will set heavily even in temps above 90 degrees so that you will have a good crop at the end of summer and the other two do pretty good at setting in the heat. I don't have any Berkley Tie Dye Pink this year but it always does good for me during late summer and fall.

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Old September 8, 2016   #17
WilburMartin
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2nd and 3rd crops, really - when I transplanted the Creole and Patio set outs from Bonnie in March, I started the Pink Brandywine and Mortgage Lifter seeds as an experiment. I caught the gardening bug and started some heavy research, and ordered the Wild Boar seeds - Pink Berkeley Tie Dye and Sweet Carneros Pink about a month later.

The Brandywine and Mortgage Lifter took so long to bud, and by the time they did, the heat really messed them up. While they set fruit a lot sooner than the Wild Boar plants, I do consider them a 2nd crop with a Better Bush clearance set out and the Wild Boar plants being the third set.

If I am figuring correctly, at least one more round of the Brandywine and M Lifter (maybe two) and maybe two harvests of the others before they succumb to the MS cold in December.;
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Old September 8, 2016   #18
WilburMartin
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Originally Posted by b54red View Post
Wilbur next year you need to try Indian Stripe PL, Pruden's Purple, Margaret Curtain, and Arkansas Traveler for your late summer and fall tomatoes. The first two varieties I listed will set heavily even in temps above 90 degrees so that you will have a good crop at the end of summer and the other two do pretty good at setting in the heat. I don't have any Berkley Tie Dye Pink this year but it always does good for me during late summer and fall.

Bill
Sounds like a winner - also looking to do Sun Gold because I have heard such great things about them; maybe Stupice and good ol Early Girl for my early crop, and that mix looks good

I didn't realize until after I got the seed I pretty much had all pinks - I need more diversity
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Old May 30, 2017   #19
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When will/did seed starting commence for Fall tomatoes?
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Old May 30, 2017   #20
BigVanVader
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I'm going to aim for July first here to plant my seedlings.
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Old June 1, 2017   #21
b54red
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When will/did seed starting commence for Fall tomatoes?
Down here where the season can be very long due to the late arrival of frosty nights usually well into November I try to set out some fall tomatoes in July but sometimes late July or very early August. I just set out my seeds for my fall tomatoes a week ago and they are already mostly up. I also lose a few weeks because of the time that grafting takes up and the healing process before they can even start hardening off. Whatever you do make sure the plants are well hardened off before they go into the hot summer garden and set them out in the evening or during a rainy spell. Make sure the ground is well mulched before setting the plants out to cool it off and also well watered a day or so before planting out.

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Old June 1, 2017   #22
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I guess these qualify as fall tomatoes-I have small seedlings of Toad Suck Toad and the breeding lines 1200-22 (Cherokee Purple seedlings) and 1200-45 (Heirloom Pink with a blue) all from Double Helix. I need to get rid of some kale and chard to make room but the current harvest (90 plus plants of tomato, pepper and eggplant-mostly tomatoes) are keeping me busy.
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Old June 1, 2017   #23
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I started some tomato seeds around May 21. I'm about to go shopping and I'm hoping to find some seeds that are VFN. I'm writing down which varieties that Fusarium seems to like more. I noticed last night and today that our two Sweet Million plants have a lot of yellow leaf sections, but no wilt so far. They are right beside other varieties that have no yellowing or wilt. Our Porter plants are starting to get yellow leaf sections too, but not nearly as much as the Sweet Million.
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Old June 1, 2017   #24
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I started some tomato seeds around May 21. I'm about to go shopping and I'm hoping to find some seeds that are VFN. I'm writing down which varieties that Fusarium seems to like more. I noticed last night and today that our two Sweet Million plants have a lot of yellow leaf sections, but no wilt so far. They are right beside other varieties that have no yellowing or wilt. Our Porter plants are starting to get yellow leaf sections too, but not nearly as much as the Sweet Million.
You sure these aren't just older lower leaves doing this?
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Old June 1, 2017   #25
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I just got back in from picking tomatoes with our youngest grandchild. The yellowing is all the way to the top, and the plants have quit growing too. There is wilt that I didn't see from in the house. The garden is 7' out from a couple of windows. Those two plants look bad when you walk up to them.
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Old June 14, 2017   #26
Gardeneer
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On/about June 3rd I sowed 12 varieties. 11 came up and now they have a pair of true leaves each. I keep them in partial sun/shade, increasing direct a lot more everyday
I also did 6 cuttings. Now they have rooted. Time to do potting. For sure , cuttings beat those from seed big time. But I wanted to try some different varieties for fall garden.
I bought 2 bags of pine bark mulch from WM. Screened one. I'll add some Flo until I get some vacancy/opening. My spring garden is at its peak.
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Old June 15, 2017   #27
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Gardeneer and everyone, I have some right at the same stage as yours - planted around the same time. It doesn't take long for them to germinate out in dappled shade this time of year.

I have some others in solo cups that I started in mid-May. Those will be ready to plant out around July 4. Going by what the internet says, the first week of July is when I'm supposed to start tomato seeds for a fall garden. I tried that a few years ago, and it is too late to start seeds here. I have never been to NC, but it sounds like you have a lot of weather like Zone 8A Texas. Our heat zones are different though.

I built a keyhole raised beds that are 12' x 34' just for growing fall tomatoes. It gets shade during the hottest part of the day. If you have 100+ degree days, you might want to provide some shade during those days. Before I built the raised beds, I used T posts and bed sheets to provide shade out in the main garden.
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Old June 15, 2017   #28
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Robert, thanks .
This is my first attempt trying to grow fall tomatoes. I have no idea what works. I am just following you and Bill.
From what I have gathered our weather in this Southern part of NC (close to SC state line, an hour drive from Myrtle Beach ) is similar to DFW area weather. So I will just try copy you guys.
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Old June 15, 2017   #29
My Foot Smells
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gdaddybill View Post
I guess these qualify as fall tomatoes-I have small seedlings of Toad Suck Toad
Wow, never heard of that variety and live about 15 miles down river of Toad Suck. Used to have a parking spot round there where me and my college gf would......... hang out.
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Old June 15, 2017   #30
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Robert, thanks .
This is my first attempt trying to grow fall tomatoes. I have no idea what works. I am just following you and Bill.
From what I have gathered our weather in this Southern part of NC (close to SC state line, an hour drive from Myrtle Beach ) is similar to DFW area weather. So I will just try copy you guys.
Gardeneer, you and I are sort of in the same shoes so-to-speak. This your first year to garden in a completely different area. This is my first year to learn how to grow with Fusarium wilt along with RKN. Bill has a lot more experience than me.
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