Fusarium Wilt - Page 9

Father'sDaughter · June 16, 2017

Quote:

Originally Posted by Worth1

Well if it is fungal couldn't a person fumeigait the soil with an anti fungal?
Worth

I don't think they've been able to find one that works. There are a few products out there that claim to treat it, but from what I've read in the past while researching possible solutions, they are just that -- claims by the manufacturer.

b54red · June 16, 2017

Quote:

Originally Posted by My Foot Smells

How can one tell if they have Strain 1, 2, or 3? Bill, I have heard you mention this on several occasions.

I found out that the third kind of fusarium was in my garden when hybrids that were resistant to the first two types of fusarium started getting fusarium. At first I thought I had hold of some bad hybrids but as the problem got worse I learned that nearby commercial tomato growers had been forced to go to hybrids resistant to all three races of fusarium in order to make a crop. When I tried growing them scattered throughout my garden as were the hybrids only resistant to two races of fusarium I found all the ones FFF resistant survived and thrived while every one of the hybrids like Big Beef and Bella Rosa which are FF resistant did very poorly and died frequently without putting on any fruit.

A good test to see if you have that third race of fusarium is grow some hybrids with different fusarium resistance levels. Grow some with F, some with FF and some with FFF. If the only ones that thrive are the FFF resistant varieties then you will have an answer. I couldn't tolerate the poor taste and rock like hardness of any of the FFF resistant varieties so I was forced to go to grafting onto FFF and RKN resistant root stock. Luckily I found one which I liked that was also tolerant of Bacterial Wilt so that was another bonus of grafting.

Bill

My Foot Smells · June 16, 2017

Thank you for supply of reply. Makes sense. Seems I get the "wilts" later in the season when things heat up and humidity is high. I find a good mulching system and drainage helpful.

I also drive by the community garden for comparison, which has some knowledgeable sorts. They grow in ground down in the river silt flood plain, and most years the heavy spring rain ruins tomato crop. This year about 98% of the crop down there looks d-e-a-d. Just a withered mess.

I'm going to try the graft next year and see if there is a difference. I don't grow big beef, better boy, or any of the more common hybrid types around here. I like the graft idea better for the types I like.

I do find it rather odd that the disease affects nightshade family plants, but I can't recall having a pepper plant go down.

Then again, I'm not sure I can tell the difference between v. wilt and f. wilt; I just lump the wilt family together.

Cole_Robbie · June 16, 2017

Along the lines of what Bill just said, I think you can tell verticillium wilt from fusarium by growing varieties like Esterina F1, which is highly resistant to V but has no F resistance at all.

AlittleSalt · June 16, 2017

Bella Rosa is one that I want to try. I have been looking at it for years in the Tomato Growers (TG) catalog. For us gardeners growing high heat and humidity, it is worth reading this link http://www.tomatogrowers.com/BELLA-R...ductinfo/3709/ It is a Determinate - which is something I haven't grown much of.

I have noticed that a lot of FFF varieties are Determinate.

There are some OP cherry varieties that are growing and producing fine through the RKN and Fusarium. They aren't listed as VFN, and maybe they just got planted in less infected spots? I don't know? These varieties are:

Japanese Pink Cherry
Oranje Van Goeijenbier
Peacevine
Sweetie Cherry

Luckily, those are favorites of ours.

Other favorites were hit hard. Including Sungold, Sunsugar, and Porter. They did produce well though. I still have one Sungold producing, but its days are numbered. Sun Cherry is still producing well, but the plants are small - under 3' tall.

Rockporter · June 16, 2017

Salt, did you see my post about the huge pallet picture and what I would do with it in the garden?

Check it out, you might find a use for it too. My big raised beds with bottoms are working out fantastic in the garden. My containers are good too.

http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=45302

Worth1 · June 16, 2017

Fifty gallons of 80% hydrogen peroxide and 50 gallons of iodine pumped into the soil soil get rid of it.

of course there would be nothing but a big hole left in the ground.
Worth

**carolyn137** · June 16, 2017

A few links.

Robert,that Japanese Pink cherry one is an OP verion of the original hybrid,so who knows what lurks in the seeds still.

Here is the best darn article I know of re Fusarium,from Keith Mueller's superb website.

http://www.kdcomm.net/~tomato/Tomato.../fusarium.html

Question? Is there anything you can use to treat the soil in F contaminated soils,yes there is and it was used widely in the south on commercial fields especialy by those companies who were sending tomato seedlings to many parts of the US

Yes,methyl bromide which was found to be very toxic.

https://www.google.com/search?q=meth...&bih=790&dpr=1

And you can read in the above those links where and how it can be used these days.F can enter damaged roots and that damage can happen when tractors or sprayers are going down the rows.Also in home gardens as well.

Hope the above helps,

Carolyn

AlittleSalt · June 21, 2017

Carolyn, I did read the link and several others on the methyl bromide.

Separate - The container idea is back on the table for me so-to-speak. I'm formulating an idea of growing in containers on a platform. That would stop splash-up from happening. I could frame and use OCB or Plywood to create the platform on our raised beds. Then use containers with store bought pro mix or container mix etc.. It's a thought in progress.

I was reading a Texas A&M site about RKN the other day. It said there are 4 crops that can grow in RKN infested soil.

Onions - which I agree with from personal experience.
Garlic - same as above.
Tomatoes with N in their description - I'm not sure I agree with that, but will try it.
Corn - It's in every large field near me, and it grows well. But, we don't eat much corn.

Even though I have read so many .edu and .gov sites about Fusarium, I'm still not sure if it can become air-borne?

There's also the thought of what I think is going overboard. I could graft onto FFF,N rootstock and grow them in the store bought mix in containers on platforms...

After three straight years of disappointing results - I'm questioning if I even like tomatoes anymore? Then today, I picked a Japanese Pink Cherry tomato - the taste was unbelievable. It was sweet like pie/cake. Our kitchen bar is covered with Porter tomatoes which we love. I had to pull the plants because both Fusarium and RKN got them.

It sounds depressing, and in a way it is, but gardening is but one thing in life. There are tomatoes growing out in the main garden. Next year, the main garden will be home to chickens. All of my family is excited about this. It is something new to us. We love pets - ones that both eat grasshoppers and lay eggs that taste better than supermarket eggs sounds good to me.

Tomatoes will be grown in the raised beds or what I described above.

b54red · June 22, 2017

Salt if you are successful with grafting I think you will find that if you use the right varieties of both root stock and scion that you will have all the tomatoes you can use with far fewer plants. My increase in production amounts after grafting shocked me. It wasn't that the grafting caused any super increase in fruit production so much as the fact that the plants stayed healthy for so much longer and I only had to worry about diseases, pests, fertilizing, supporting, watering, and picking.

Bill

AlittleSalt · June 22, 2017

Bill, I am thinking the same. I would rather have less plants that are healthy and producing better results. Your late Spring through early Fall weather is a lot like where I'm at in Texas. Maybe one big difference is we have very low humidity in mid August through September.

So many varieties just do not taste right this year. I have to think that Fusarium and RKN robbing the nutrients effects the way a tomato tastes. Too much rain doesn't help either.

AlittleSalt · June 22, 2017

For a change, I want to post some pictures of plants that do well in Fusarium and RKN infested soil. Morning Glories, Purslane, Marigolds, and Lantana. Some of the flowering Marigolds are growing in almost complete shade. Others are growing right beside tomato plants that had to be pulled.

Rockporter · June 22, 2017

Salt, maybe you can start a cut flower shop and sell at the farmer's market?

**carolyn137** · June 22, 2017

(Even though I have read so many .edu and .gov sites about Fusarium, I'm still not sure if it can become air-borne?)

Let me again link to Keith Mueller's article about Fusarium where he mentions that and trust me, being trained by Dr.Randy Gardener, one of THE best tomato breeders ever,I would say that Keith knows much more than any gov or edu site.

http://www.kdcomm.net/~tomato/Tomato.../fusarium.html

Carolyn

AlittleSalt · June 22, 2017

Carolyn, I don't know how I missed it, but here it is - "Fusarium can even spread in the wind with dust particles." http://www.kdcomm.net/~tomato/Tomato.../fusarium.html

We have dust storms here. It is also very windy between February and May.

June 16, 2017	#126
Rockporter Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Texas Coastal Bend Posts: 3,205	Salt, did you see my post about the huge pallet picture and what I would do with it in the garden? Check it out, you might find a use for it too. My big raised beds with bottoms are working out fantastic in the garden. My containers are good too. http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=45302 __________________ In the spring at the end of the day you should smell like dirt ~Margaret Atwood~

June 16, 2017	#128
carolyn137 Moderator Emeritus Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Upstate NY, zone 4b/5a Posts: 21,169	A few links. Robert,that Japanese Pink cherry one is an OP verion of the original hybrid,so who knows what lurks in the seeds still. Here is the best darn article I know of re Fusarium,from Keith Mueller's superb website. http://www.kdcomm.net/~tomato/Tomato.../fusarium.html Question? Is there anything you can use to treat the soil in F contaminated soils,yes there is and it was used widely in the south on commercial fields especialy by those companies who were sending tomato seedlings to many parts of the US Yes,methyl bromide which was found to be very toxic. https://www.google.com/search?q=meth...&bih=790&dpr=1 And you can read in the above those links where and how it can be used these days.F can enter damaged roots and that damage can happen when tractors or sprayers are going down the rows.Also in home gardens as well. Hope the above helps, Carolyn __________________ Carolyn

June 22, 2017	#133
Rockporter Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Texas Coastal Bend Posts: 3,205	Salt, maybe you can start a cut flower shop and sell at the farmer's market? __________________ In the spring at the end of the day you should smell like dirt ~Margaret Atwood~

June 22, 2017	#134
carolyn137 Moderator Emeritus Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Upstate NY, zone 4b/5a Posts: 21,169	(Even though I have read so many .edu and .gov sites about Fusarium, I'm still not sure if it can become air-borne?) Let me again link to Keith Mueller's article about Fusarium where he mentions that and trust me, being trained by Dr.Randy Gardener, one of THE best tomato breeders ever,I would say that Keith knows much more than any gov or edu site. http://www.kdcomm.net/~tomato/Tomato.../fusarium.html Carolyn __________________ Carolyn

June 16, 2017	#123
My Foot Smells Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Pulaski County, Arkansas Posts: 1,239	Thank you for supply of reply. Makes sense. Seems I get the "wilts" later in the season when things heat up and humidity is high. I find a good mulching system and drainage helpful. I also drive by the community garden for comparison, which has some knowledgeable sorts. They grow in ground down in the river silt flood plain, and most years the heavy spring rain ruins tomato crop. This year about 98% of the crop down there looks d-e-a-d. Just a withered mess. I'm going to try the graft next year and see if there is a difference. I don't grow big beef, better boy, or any of the more common hybrid types around here. I like the graft idea better for the types I like. I do find it rather odd that the disease affects nightshade family plants, but I can't recall having a pepper plant go down. Then again, I'm not sure I can tell the difference between v. wilt and f. wilt; I just lump the wilt family together.

June 16, 2017	#124
Cole_Robbie Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Illinois, zone 6 Posts: 8,407	Along the lines of what Bill just said, I think you can tell verticillium wilt from fusarium by growing varieties like Esterina F1, which is highly resistant to V but has no F resistance at all.

June 16, 2017	#125
AlittleSalt BANNED FOR LIFE Join Date: May 2014 Posts: 13,333	Bella Rosa is one that I want to try. I have been looking at it for years in the Tomato Growers (TG) catalog. For us gardeners growing high heat and humidity, it is worth reading this link http://www.tomatogrowers.com/BELLA-R...ductinfo/3709/ It is a Determinate - which is something I haven't grown much of. I have noticed that a lot of FFF varieties are Determinate. There are some OP cherry varieties that are growing and producing fine through the RKN and Fusarium. They aren't listed as VFN, and maybe they just got planted in less infected spots? I don't know? These varieties are: Japanese Pink Cherry Oranje Van Goeijenbier Peacevine Sweetie Cherry Luckily, those are favorites of ours. Other favorites were hit hard. Including Sungold, Sunsugar, and Porter. They did produce well though. I still have one Sungold producing, but its days are numbered. Sun Cherry is still producing well, but the plants are small - under 3' tall.

June 16, 2017	#127
Worth1 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Den of Drunken Fools Posts: 38,539	Fifty gallons of 80% hydrogen peroxide and 50 gallons of iodine pumped into the soil soil get rid of it. of course there would be nothing but a big hole left in the ground. Worth

June 21, 2017	#129
AlittleSalt BANNED FOR LIFE Join Date: May 2014 Posts: 13,333	Carolyn, I did read the link and several others on the methyl bromide. Separate - The container idea is back on the table for me so-to-speak. I'm formulating an idea of growing in containers on a platform. That would stop splash-up from happening. I could frame and use OCB or Plywood to create the platform on our raised beds. Then use containers with store bought pro mix or container mix etc.. It's a thought in progress. I was reading a Texas A&M site about RKN the other day. It said there are 4 crops that can grow in RKN infested soil. Onions - which I agree with from personal experience. Garlic - same as above. Tomatoes with N in their description - I'm not sure I agree with that, but will try it. Corn - It's in every large field near me, and it grows well. But, we don't eat much corn. Even though I have read so many .edu and .gov sites about Fusarium, I'm still not sure if it can become air-borne? There's also the thought of what I think is going overboard. I could graft onto FFF,N rootstock and grow them in the store bought mix in containers on platforms... After three straight years of disappointing results - I'm questioning if I even like tomatoes anymore? Then today, I picked a Japanese Pink Cherry tomato - the taste was unbelievable. It was sweet like pie/cake. Our kitchen bar is covered with Porter tomatoes which we love. I had to pull the plants because both Fusarium and RKN got them. It sounds depressing, and in a way it is, but gardening is but one thing in life. There are tomatoes growing out in the main garden. Next year, the main garden will be home to chickens. All of my family is excited about this. It is something new to us. We love pets - ones that both eat grasshoppers and lay eggs that taste better than supermarket eggs sounds good to me. Tomatoes will be grown in the raised beds or what I described above.

June 22, 2017	#130
b54red Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Alabama Posts: 7,068	Salt if you are successful with grafting I think you will find that if you use the right varieties of both root stock and scion that you will have all the tomatoes you can use with far fewer plants. My increase in production amounts after grafting shocked me. It wasn't that the grafting caused any super increase in fruit production so much as the fact that the plants stayed healthy for so much longer and I only had to worry about diseases, pests, fertilizing, supporting, watering, and picking. Bill

June 22, 2017	#131
AlittleSalt BANNED FOR LIFE Join Date: May 2014 Posts: 13,333	Bill, I am thinking the same. I would rather have less plants that are healthy and producing better results. Your late Spring through early Fall weather is a lot like where I'm at in Texas. Maybe one big difference is we have very low humidity in mid August through September. So many varieties just do not taste right this year. I have to think that Fusarium and RKN robbing the nutrients effects the way a tomato tastes. Too much rain doesn't help either.

June 22, 2017	#135
AlittleSalt BANNED FOR LIFE Join Date: May 2014 Posts: 13,333	Carolyn, I don't know how I missed it, but here it is - "Fusarium can even spread in the wind with dust particles." http://www.kdcomm.net/~tomato/Tomato.../fusarium.html We have dust storms here. It is also very windy between February and May.