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Old June 5, 2018   #31
SpookyShoe
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Default Cherokee Purple

I pulled this plant a few days ago. It was obvious during it's growing season that it was infected....it didn't grow very tall and looked wilted. Got only a fair amount of fruit from it. This variety always has been susceptible to RKN for me, but I grow it anyway b/c the fruit is so tasty. However, this year I tried a JD's Special C-Tex and liked the fruit at least as much as that of CP. JD's still looks healthy.

Donna, Texas Gulf Coast
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Old June 6, 2018   #32
DonDuck
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Your photo is very good to demonstrate the appearance of roots when infected with root knot nemotodes. The roots should be rather smooth in appearance, but instead are covered with knots where the nemotodes have penetrated the roots.
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Old March 20, 2019   #33
rick9748
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May have asked you this before but which root stock do you find best stopping RKN??
What type foliar disease rotation do you do during the season??
Thanks
Rick
Location; central South Carolina hot [95+s] and very humid July, August and part Sept.
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Old March 20, 2019   #34
DonDuck
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Rick, If your asking me, I don't do anything for root selection except trying to select varieties which have shown some natural resistance. I was expecting a lot of root knot evidence last fall when I pulled my dead plants after the first frost. It was not there. I finished the summer growing only Big Beef and Heatmaster. Their roots were in very good condition. This year, I am using an organic fungicide as a soil drench which is supposed to be effective for controlling plant fungus"s as well as providing some root knot protection.
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Old March 21, 2019   #35
b54red
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rick9748 View Post
May have asked you this before but which root stock do you find best stopping RKN??
What type foliar disease rotation do you do during the season??
Thanks
Rick
Location; central South Carolina hot [95+s] and very humid July, August and part Sept.
Rick I found the absolute best nematode resistance with Multifort, Maxifort and Estamino all from Paramount Seeds. The problem I had with all three was that they didn't seem to have little or no resistance to Bacterial wilt and a couple of them were far too vegetative so pruning was a chore. I have been using RST-04-106 from NE Seeds for a few years with great results because of its good resistance to BW along with triple Fusarium wilt resistance and nematode resistance. I have had two or three plants over a five year period have a little nematode damage but they have been very rare and not so severe that the plants had any loss of production til near the end of the season. I never saw a plant with any nematode damage from the first three root stock varieties I mentioned but then I didn't use them but a couple of years before switching to RST-04-106 because it was compatible with more varieties and it had the best resistance to the multitude of problems down here.

Why don't you try a few different ones like I did and find the one that works best in your situation? It took me a couple of years to settle on the one that works best for the varieties I plant each year and for dealing most effectively with the diseases that are prevalent here. Below are links to the above mentioned root stock seeds.

https://paramountseeds.com/product-c...tstock-tomato/

https://www.neseed.com/product-categ...ato-rootstock/

Good luck.
Bill
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Old March 21, 2019   #36
rick9748
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Thanks, Will keep on file and use for reference.Here in South Carolina our go date is 2/3 week of April.
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Old March 28, 2019   #37
rick9748
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Default actinovate use for root knot nematodes

Does actinovate have any effect on root knot nematodes??I so how did you use, apply it??
Thanks
Rick
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Old April 4, 2019   #38
DonDuck
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Actinovate supposedly works for nemotodes. I will find out this year.



I used a two gallon watering can and mixed two tsps of actinovate into the can and liberally water the plants in their grow cells. Since it is an organic fungus or organism, it supposedly reproduces in the plant, plant roots, and soil.


At plant out, I dug the small, but deep hole for each plant. I inserted the plant/rootball to the bottom of the hole and filled the holes with the actinovate mixture and back filled the hole with soil. I finished by soaking the plant and backfilled soil with actinovate. I will repeat the same procedure in eight to ten weeks by soaking the plants again.



Two ounces of actinovate covered about thirty tomato plants at one teaspoon of actinovate per gallon of water.


My primary target are various fungus instead of nemotodes, but I will observe nematode activity on any infected plants.


There are now a variety of active organic products on the market to treat root disease and fungal disease. Actinovate is more expensive than most, but is more concentrated and covers more area. Actinovate packages have a "use by" date on them. The organisms only remain active for twelve months after packaging. Check the date before using the product. Some vendors pay no attention to the expiration date and sell it anyhow.

Last edited by DonDuck; April 4, 2019 at 02:59 PM.
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Old April 4, 2019   #39
rick9748
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Is it required to use non chlorinated, treated water for bacteria to survive and work??
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Old April 7, 2019   #40
DonDuck
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Quote:
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Is it required to use non chlorinated, treated water for bacteria to survive and work??

I don't think so! Since it will poured into the soil where it will be exposed to all sort of minerals, it shouldn't matter. The instruction indicate it works best to apply it when the soil is wet because soil moisture allows the spores to move more easily in the soil.
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Old May 11, 2019   #41
rick9748
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Have any best results from plants for this year's growing season.Ours in SC is just getting into full swing.
Rick South Carolins VG
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Old May 11, 2019   #42
GoDawgs
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I'm looking forward to your updates on this, Don!
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Old June 7, 2019   #43
DonDuck
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I don't believe I've experienced any nemotodes this year. I've experienced so much leaf fungus from the extended cool, moist weather, it has decimated my tomato plant foliage. It hasn't killed the plants and they are generating new foliage, so I will be okay. Most tomato growers in my area have had the same problems due to the weather.


I do have one Big Beef plant which will probably bite the dust. If it dies, I will examine the roots for nematode damage. I did saturate my planting holes last fall with vinegar and Epson salts. I also used Actinovate in the planting holes this spring as I was planting my seedlings. I should have a better idea of what worked and what didn't help when I can examine my plants better. I'm pretty sure the Actinovate helped with soil borne fungus, but couldn't do anything against the air borne spores on the leaves. Soil fungus seems to kill the branches of the plants while fungus spores in the air seem to attack only the foliage. My branches and stems are still healthy. My tomato crop also seems undamaged because my plants set fruit before the fungus out break.
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Old June 8, 2019   #44
GoDawgs
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So far I've not seen any nematode damage either. Strange. In that infected bed where I'm testing a molasses drench, both the drenched and undrenched summer squash are looking good. And it sure has been hot enough to activate those little buggers. I wonder if there's a soil temp too hot for 'todes...
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Old June 8, 2019   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoDawgs View Post
So far I've not seen any nematode damage either. Strange. In that infected bed where I'm testing a molasses drench, both the drenched and undrenched summer squash are looking good. And it sure has been hot enough to activate those little buggers. I wonder if there's a soil temp too hot for 'todes...
During solarizing the temperature of soil or mix can get up to around 140F/60C degrees. That's at 2 inches deep and is supposed to kill nematodes. I know, basically useless info, but soil/mix can get too hot...from what I've read
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