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New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.

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Old February 4, 2013   #16
ArcherB
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Just curious... why not simply start them in the cups?

I drill holes in the bottom of a cup, fill it with dry mix, place it into another, smaller cup with water in it, and allow it to soak up water from the bottom. Think self watering containers on a smaller, less scientific scale. Once the soil is moist, I place the seeds in. Once they sprout, I water from the top and use the bottom cup for drainage.
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Old February 4, 2013   #17
Dewayne mater
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Looking good Ray!

I potted up Sunday. Yours look about 5 days beyond mind, but the roots growing way out of the bottom of the cells made me think it was time. I found a Sunshine brand potting mix I'm using this time. We'll see. I do need to put some weak fertilizer in them every now and again. What do you use? I also bought another set of lights that are so called plant lights. Supposedly they have more red and blue spectrum lights. They do look different than the others. Should be interesting to see if it makes any difference. They are still just 40 watt florescent tube lights.

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Old February 4, 2013   #18
Gobig_or_Gohome_toms
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Looking good raybo do I see a few jumpstart t5's there I only have about 10 just waiting to jump out of the box in a few more months

Craig
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Old February 4, 2013   #19
rnewste
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ArcherB,

I like the Burpee XL Ultimate Grow System as the cell trays sit on a wicking mat which pulls up water from the reservoir tray. Therefore, I only need to top up once per week. Also, potting up the seedlings at least once seems to strengthen the root system in the process. Carolyn and others have also posted this observation.

Go Big,

I know you use a whole array of the Hydrofarm 24" lighting systems in your setup. I have ganged 3 of them on to a single footer as you can see in the photo:



This produces a uniform lighting pattern for two trays and the bases are not interfering with each other.

Raybo
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Old February 4, 2013   #20
ArcherB
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That's awesome, Ray. I have a similar setup, except where your is professionally produced and sold, mine is the trailor park/ghetto version. I took a three foot wide wire rack, hung two four foot long shop lights from a shelf about eye level, placed plywood a 5 ft piece of plywood on the shelf below it for the cups, and if I want a self watering tray, I "acquire" one from my local Burger King.

The shelf will hold somewhere between 50 and 75 cups (without the Burger King trays), but with that many, it becomes a pain to shuffle them around come watering time.
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Old February 5, 2013   #21
ScottinAtlanta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArcherB View Post
Just curious... why not simply start them in the cups?

I drill holes in the bottom of a cup, fill it with dry mix, place it into another, smaller cup with water in it, and allow it to soak up water from the bottom. Think self watering containers on a smaller, less scientific scale. Once the soil is moist, I place the seeds in. Once they sprout, I water from the top and use the bottom cup for drainage.
I couldn't do it because with 600 seedlings, the cost of filling cups with the starting mix would be enormous. I dense sow in the Craig-style into seed starting mix, then pot up into much less expensive Promix BX with Mycorrhiza.
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Old February 7, 2013   #22
Dewayne mater
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Ray - do you continue to use the wicking mats to pull water up from the bottom once you've potted up to solo cups? I am already weary of watering cup by cup by cup every 2-3 days. I'm not sure if sufficient water would wick up from the 2 holes per cup I drilled, even if they were sitting in water. Hmm.

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Old February 8, 2013   #23
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Potted up a week ago. I have a heat mat keeping the soil temperature around 73.5 degrees. Plants are exploding with growth.

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Old February 8, 2013   #24
Delerium
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I potted my plants up recently to.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg pottedup.jpg (502.6 KB, 28 views)
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Old February 8, 2013   #25
rnewste
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Six days after potting up:



Treated with a full strength drench of Azos on Feb 6.

Dewayne,

The wicking fabric will not work with the Solo cups - the concave design of the cup's bottom will not sit flush on the mat. I find the 50/50 mix of Happy Frog / Ocean Forest retains moisture for about 4 days.

Baizanator,

Very nice looking set-up!

Raybo
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Old February 8, 2013   #26
Baizanator
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rnewste View Post
Six days after potting up:



Treated with a full strength drench of Azos on Feb 6.

Dewayne,

The wicking fabric will not work with the Solo cups - the concave design of the cup's bottom will not sit flush on the mat. I find the 50/50 mix of Happy Frog / Ocean Forest retains moisture for about 4 days.

Baizanator,

Very nice looking set-up!

Raybo
Raybo,

I've got the Azos and would like to drench my seedlings. How is this done? What measurements are used?
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Old February 8, 2013   #27
rnewste
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Check the dosage recommendation listed on the package. For my full size seedlings in the photo, I used one tablespoon per gallon of water. My Azos is a year old.

Raybo
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Old February 8, 2013   #28
Baizanator
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rnewste View Post
Check the dosage recommendation listed on the package. For my full size seedlings in the photo, I used one tablespoon per gallon of water. My Azos is a year old.

Raybo
If I'm sub-irrigating could I just pour it in the tray or does it need to be poured over the potting mix?
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Old February 8, 2013   #29
rnewste
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As it needs to make positive contact with the roots to be effective, I recommend a soil drench around the base of the plant.

Raybo
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Old February 9, 2013   #30
RayR
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Raybo is right, azospirillum brasilense is a free living bacteria but it needs to be in the rhizosphere to survive.
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