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Old May 23, 2019   #16
bower
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Originally Posted by xellos99 View Post
That was my initial thought of what is was but looking at the brown areas there is no concentric circles at all. The photos of early and late blight I found show those circles.

Then someone said deficiency and it does look like a couple of deficiency types can look but the strange thing is that I have 5 gardeners delight and 9 sungold.

All 9 sungold were together in a row and all show the symptoms and the GD did not at all. But now the two GD plants that are right next to the Sungold row are showing symptoms the same which points to a spreading habit from one plant to its neighbour.

Its not simple to ID these things at all IMO like some people make out.
It could be to do with the cold, the soil, a fungus, a deficiency, watering.

It has baffled me and the changes I made this year like burying them very deeply, using microrizer, using concentrated chicken manure and taking plants from a neighbour. I will not repeat next year. Will keep it simple next time

Yes, the leaf at the top has interveinal streaking, likely deficiency related. As I mentioned, cold weather or poorly drained or oxygenated soils, pH imbalance, all can affect the uptake of essential nutrients. If you used dolomite lime then you know there is Mg available; if not you can add some. K is the other one that looks similar and which I think is more likely, if it's cold and wet the problem is this affects the uptake. Your chicken manure should have provided plenty.


The main point is that you must remove the bad leaves, because as they go necrotic (presumably from deficiency issue) then the diseases move in to finish it off, and they spread. There are circles on the leaf in your last pic at the bottom, looks classic EB to me.


Growing at high density in a greenhouse, you need to prune regularly not only to improve air flow but also to let the sun warm the ground. If you planted deeply, I agree with BrownRexx this can be an issue and the rooting process will go much faster if the sun is hitting the ground. So remove the lower foliage on your plants up to the first flower cluster. And take away all the afflicted leaves. If you are concerned about defoliating because they are already pruned, I sometimes take just part of a leaf, pinch it back to the point it is healthy and remove the rest later when new leaves are coming on.
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Old May 23, 2019   #17
xellos99
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I don't know what your soil is like but 12in down would be below where my best soil is located so the root ball would be in an area without good soil in my case if I planted that deep
At the end of the season i am going to do a post mortem of where the main root-ball went to see if there is evidence that there was a problem.

I cant dig down to check because roots have formed along the stem now
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Old May 23, 2019   #18
xellos99
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Yes, the leaf at the top has interveinal streaking, likely deficiency related. As I mentioned, cold weather or poorly drained or oxygenated soils, pH imbalance, all can affect the uptake of essential nutrients. If you used dolomite lime then you know there is Mg available; if not you can add some. K is the other one that looks similar and which I think is more likely, if it's cold and wet the problem is this affects the uptake. Your chicken manure should have provided plenty.


The main point is that you must remove the bad leaves, because as they go necrotic (presumably from deficiency issue) then the diseases move in to finish it off, and they spread. There are circles on the leaf in your last pic at the bottom, looks classic EB to me.


Growing at high density in a greenhouse, you need to prune regularly not only to improve air flow but also to let the sun warm the ground. If you planted deeply, I agree with BrownRexx this can be an issue and the rooting process will go much faster if the sun is hitting the ground. So remove the lower foliage on your plants up to the first flower cluster. And take away all the afflicted leaves. If you are concerned about defoliating because they are already pruned, I sometimes take just part of a leaf, pinch it back to the point it is healthy and remove the rest later when new leaves are coming on.

I just cut off the bottom 3 or 4 branches from all plants and it does look way more airy now and like you say the light is hitting the ground much better.
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Old May 23, 2019   #19
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I just cut off the bottom 3 or 4 branches from all plants and it does look way more airy now and like you say the light is hitting the ground much better.

They're going to love it. I'm not a pruner by nature myself, but learned the hard way growing at high density under cover in a cool climate. Some horrible mess happens if you let the tomatoes grow wild. And they really don't mind leaf pruning a bit. I think that nipping a few leaves also stimulates the plant's immune responses - herbivory response at least, which means more allelopathic stuff to reduce the appeal to bugs as well as pathogens.



I try to avoid those big pruning cuts to the stems, which always becomes a place for rot sooner or later. Leaf pruning once a week is usually enough to stop giant shoots from forming which require me to use cutters dipped in bleach instead of just snapping off the leaf by hand.
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Old May 23, 2019   #20
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Looks like mild Septoria. I had it at the beginning of the season down here, and was trimming foliage, but couldn't stop it. The good news is that I left the recent affected foliage alone, and it didn't advance, and the plants are fine. Of course I'm spraying with Daconil and Copper, but that didn't stop it.
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Old May 23, 2019   #21
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I found you this page which, although they are selling fertilizers, has imo the best pictures of tomato leaf deficiency symptoms, along with very clear descriptions that really help...
https://www.haifa-group.com/crop-gui...lant-nutrition
Thank you for this link!
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Old May 24, 2019   #22
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xellos99,

Great job on the photos! Marginal leaf necrosis is systemic and not fungal. It is possible you also have some secondary fungal problems but the main problem is systemic. This can be caused by excessive fertilizer (fertilizer burn), nutrient deficiencies (which, alone can have many causes), or soil too wet or cold. My first bet (3/2 odds) is the root zone is too cold and/or too wet. My second bet (20/1 odds) is you used a bit much of the chicken manure. My third bet (30/1 odds) would be on a nutrient deficiency.

I am thinking your plants will do better after roots form on the buried stem, closer to the surface, where it is warmer and drier.

Good luck!
Steve
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Old May 24, 2019   #23
xellos99
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xellos99,

Great job on the photos! Marginal leaf necrosis is systemic and not fungal. It is possible you also have some secondary fungal problems but the main problem is systemic. This can be caused by excessive fertilizer (fertilizer burn), nutrient deficiencies (which, alone can have many causes), or soil too wet or cold. My first bet (3/2 odds) is the root zone is too cold and/or too wet. My second bet (20/1 odds) is you used a bit much of the chicken manure. My third bet (30/1 odds) would be on a nutrient deficiency.

I am thinking your plants will do better after roots form on the buried stem, closer to the surface, where it is warmer and drier.

Good luck!
Steve
Thanks for the reply, luckily day and night temps are improving all the time now so i still believe.

And it kinda helps that i have 7 in pots and 10 more arriving next week that will also go in pots.

I have reserves for the reserves
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