Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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May 6, 2012 | #31 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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I have had great success dry farming my cacti, agave, and yucca.
Melons grown in sandy soil with little water at the end are the bomb. Seems the only way to get them now here is to grow them. Sometimes we get them from Pecos or Midkiff that are sweet as can be. But the stores mostly purchas the irrigated tastless ones from the valley. Worth |
May 6, 2012 | #32 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Bedford, VA
Posts: 256
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Some insights on "Dry Farming" as found on the world wide web...
What Is Dry Farming? Dry farming tomatoes is a very simple process where you plant and water your tomatoes just as you normally would until the plant begins setting fruit. Once the fruit appears on the tomato plant, you cease to water it. Basically, dry farming is growing crops without any irrigation to supplement rainfall. This does not mean your tomatoes will not be watered, just that you are not irrigating them yourself with drip irrigation or other watering methods. The plants are water only by rainfall only. Of course in extreme drought conditions you will need to water the tomato plants a little to keep them alive. Under normal weather conditions, dry farming is used. What Is The Advantage Of Dry Farming Tomatoes? Tomatoes that are overwatered tend to taste bland and watery. Dry farming creates a more flavorful tomato because the tomato plant will concentrate its sugars into the fruit, and can also help the tomato ripen much quicker. Of course, there are obvious advantages in regards to water conservation, and a reduction in water costs if you are using city supplied water for your tomatoes. What Are Some Disadvantages Of Dry Farming Tomatoes? Although dry farming tomatoes has shown to improve the overall flavor of the tomato there are issues with this method of growing tomatoes. Dry farming increases the chances of blossom end rot due to the fluctuations in watering. This can also cause some cracking or splitting of the tomatoes if water fluctuations are drastic. Dry farming can also reduce yield sizes, and can promote smaller tomatoes. Tomato plants may also look straggly and foliage changes could occur. If the plant begins to severely wilt, you may need to irrigate moderately. Dry farming is a method by which tomatoes, as well as grains, grapes, fruit trees, winter squash and other deep-rooted food crops, are planted and trained to access retained subsurface water, instead of relying upon irrigation. The plants and fruit are smaller, but the sugar in the fruit is more concentrated and therefore sweeter than irrigated plants. On tomatoes, the skin may also be a bit tougher. Soil preparation is the first step. Double dig your entire bed of native clay soil. Double digging is a technique that fluffs up and aerates the soil to a depth of 16 to 24 inches. Remember that the soil should be moist enough that you can easily crumble a handful. If it is too wet or too dry, digging will result in poor soil structure that cannot support the plants well. When dry farming, plants need to be spaced about 4 to 5 feet apart in order to have enough water resources. Add up to 2 inches of finished compost and mix it into the top 3 to 4 inches of the double-dug bed. Water well, then add a layer of straw or leaf mulch and wait for planting day. Keep your seedlings in a warm location and allow them to get tall and a little leggy -- do not pinch them back. Continue to care for them and perhaps repot into gallon pots in order to give the roots more room for strong growth. The taller the plant, the deeper you can put it in the ground. All those little hairs along the stem will become roots when the stems are buried. Early to mid-May is typically warm enough for planting. Dig holes deep enough to leave only the top 4 to 5 inches of the seedlings above ground level. Add a specially formulated tomato fertilizer to the soil, water the hole and let it drain. Pinch or cut off all the leaves and branches up to the top 4 or 5 inches of the plant and pinch off any flowers and suckers between the branches. Plant the tomato, mixing a little compost with the clay, and leaving the top leaves and branches exposed. Water deeply; cover the surrounding soil with 3 to 4 inches of leaf mulch, straw or other mulch. Water deeply a few days later and then once a week for about three weeks. When you see fruit begin to develop, stop watering altogether. Do not be tempted to water your tomatoes after that because irregular watering can result in a disease called blossom end rot. If you have prepared the bed and mulched well, the tomatoes should be able to find their own water by searching deeply into the soil. Ideally, a cover crop of legumes would have been planted in the tomato bed the previous fall, and turned under in the spring as the legumes started to flower and the soil moisture content was at that crumbly stage. This adds nitrogen and organic material to the soil, which helps with the dry farming process. Last edited by barryla61; May 6, 2012 at 02:41 PM. Reason: Changed font size |
May 6, 2012 | #33 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Bermuda
Posts: 364
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I also tend to "dry farm" my tomatoes. They are deep rooted and once established rarely need water beyond rainfall. This yerba our rainfall is less than half the norm yet my best producers are dry farmed plants from may 2011. Seriously. Once established, I've never seen a tomato plant wilt. If the drought turns extreme, they yes I would water. Extreme summer heat is a non-issue (93 max) here but irrelevant anyway since fruit doesn't set in that heat anyhow... So far this year my plants have seen only 8 inches of rain (norm would be 19).
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