Calling Tucson/Southern Arizona Gardeners

[flyingbrass]

I pulled 6 of my 11 bigger plants. Now, one of the remaining 5 is showing symptoms. I'm not pulling any more plants. They may all have it. Symptoms don't show up for several weeks.

When I'm through harvesting tomatoes, I'll clear out all tomato and pepper plants. I don't want to leave anything that will serve as a host for the virus. Of course, that assumes this is actually TYLCV. It seems to be.

I won't plant any peppers or tomatoes this fall. For next year's spring season, I'll probably use some floating row cover or similar screen on my seedlings when they are outside during the daytime. I may also set up some yellow sticky traps proactively at plant-out.

I've planted some cantaloupe (muskmelon) seeds in the cages where I removed tomatoes. It will be interesting to see how they will work out planted this late and whether the cages work as trellises.

I planted some blackeye peas bought from the store in my currently unused 4x8 bed. High germination rate. I've read that Iron Clay (or Iron and Clay?) cowpeas are better for cover crops in the desert, but a bag of beans from the store is easier and cheaper. I do plan to buy some inoculant for next time I plant. Green beans in the same spot last year didn't have many root nodules.

On the plus side, my zucchini is growing as usual. And my little Sophie's Choice tomatoes are healthy and loaded with tomatoes. I counted over 50 set so far on 4 plants. Their leaves are rolled, but all I've grown have done that. It isn't a disease and doesn't seem to hurt anything.

[tuk50]

flyingbrass, I'm so sorry to hear you have lost so many plants. A couple years ago I had something hit and lost about a third of my tomato crop and it was very discouraging, but we live and learn... I've started to use a few disease resistant varieties each year, hopefully to avoid total loss when it hits again. I've always used crop rotation and I think it has helped a lot.

[flyingbrass]

Yeah, it is very disappointing. I compare my garden pictures from this time last year to now and cringe. As you said, live and learn. That's the best we can do.

Information is sparse online for gardening in Arizona deserts, but I gather that we generally don't have much problem here with Tobacco Mosaic Virus, Fusarium, and a few others that are more prevalent elsewhere. I don't know how useful the supposed "disease resistant" varieties compare here to anything else that doesn't carry a string of resistance letters on its tag or in the catalog. Have you found any benefit so far when growing anything "resistant"?

TYLCV is a whole 'nother can of worms. This virus is a big problem in other parts of the world, and has only fairly recently reached us. Work is being done. A few resistant varieties are available, but apparently only to the commercial market. I stumbled across one study that was way over my head technically which theorized in conclusion that altering certain genes may convey TYLCV resistance to existing tomato varieties without affecting plant growth habits or tomato qualities.

I'm still not positive my plants have TYLCV, but everything I've seen matches. Years ago, I'm guessing around 2007, we had mosquitoes that attacked the ankles and bit all day. It was horrible. That was so unusual I did some research and found that "yellow fever" mosquitos did exactly that. They had been reported several years earlier in more southern portions of the state, but nothing showed them as being in Maricopa County. Official reports lag behind.

[tuk50]

I use big beef and one that came from a commercial source called susy and haven't lost one yet to wilt. On the other hand my family's old standby green zebra... one we love for salsa has been growing in my garden for years and last year I had two going and lost both over a period of weeks without getting a single tomato from them... so until I lose a resistant variety with the string of letters, I have to believe they really are resistant. The taste is good though not as great as others that are more prone to disease. Bonnie Best has always been the one we use for canning, but again last year was terrible for it also. In fact I had never lost one before without getting some fruit, till then.

[desertlzbn]

I am sorry you are having so many problems. Have you read the book Desert Gardening by George Brookbank. He was a master gardener at the U of A for something like 20 years. I try to follow what his books say to do, and I find that that helps. the other thing that you can do is call the U of A extension office and see if they have any information that may help you. They were helpful when I needed to find out what was wrong with my plants.

[flyingbrass]

Tuk50, thanks, that's the kind of feedback I was seeking. I may try a couple lettered plants next year just to compare to others with whatever issue may strike.

desertlzbn, I don't have that book. I have Extreme Gardening by Dave Owens. IMO, it's not worth the purchase price. It's really basic and lacking. Better info can be found online and researching yourself, though I suppose that's the case with many books.

I e-mailed the U of A extension folks last year asking whether aminopyralid and similar long-lasting herbicides have been reported in manures here in Arizona. In case they didn't know what I was talking about, I provided some background info and links. They didn't reply.

[ginger2778]

Originally Posted by flyingbrass

I'm not 100% positive, but I think several of my plants have TYLCV (tomato yellow leaf curl virus). I noticed some whiteflies earlier in the season.

I've read that the virus first showed up here in the valley a few years ago.

I had been hoping the problem was a nutrient issue, or perhaps overwatering. I was also fearing the horse manure I applied may have been the cause. None of that explains why some plants are fine, while others have been developing this problem. They are planted in the same soil and watered the same.

I've tried letting the plants dry out more between waterings. That hasn't helped. Over the past weeks I've applied some blood meal, chicken crap fertilizer and even Miracle Gro to different affected plants. I've also foliar fed seaweed, epsom salt, and Miracle Gro. Nothing has had any effect. I really don't think it's a nutrient issue.

I pulled out that smallest plant today. 4-5 others are showing symptoms to varying degrees. If I pull them also, I'll be yanking half my plants. I'm debating whether to do that.

Any thoughts? Does this look like TYLCV to you?

Hi Flyingbrass,
Being in South Florida, and fighting off TYLCV for years I can tell you that yes , unfortunately this is what you have. I am so sorry for you. The whiteflies do respond to spraying neem oil every 5 days, it controls them very well, but if you let up they do come back. Unfortunately it only takes one whitefly feeding on your plant for 15 minutes to spread the virus, according to the PHD I spoke to on the phone at the USDA.
In the end they always get my tomatoes, but not usually before I get a nice crop, because I don't get lazy with my spraying until late in the season
The noticeably infected plants should be pulled as soon as you see the first signs of leaf change, because the whiteflies do hop and feed from one to the next closest.
They are my biggest nemesis. The USDA lady told me to look close by for their source because they don't fly very far ( but can be carried by wind). In my case all my neighbors have very lush foliage and whiteflies eat a lot of things besides tomatoes, so my neighbors yards are the likely source for them.
Yellow sticky traps are not a wonderful deterrent but all things help somewhat.I would start with the neem oil spray (mix with some liquid dish soap because their bosies sre soft and soap also kills them by destroying their "wax" on their bodies) as soon as your seedlings are planted permanently, and then every 5 days religiously. That prevention is what saves me every year. You probably already know this, but make sure it is very early or very late afternoon when you spray, else the Neem oil will burn the leaves in the bright sun and heat of the day.
I hope this helps you.

[ginger2778]

Originally Posted by flyingbrass

I'm not 100% positive, but I think several of my plants have TYLCV (tomato yellow leaf curl virus). I noticed some whiteflies earlier in the season.

I've read that the virus first showed up here in the valley a few years ago.

I had been hoping the problem was a nutrient issue, or perhaps overwatering. I was also fearing the horse manure I applied may have been the cause. None of that explains why some plants are fine, while others have been developing this problem. They are planted in the same soil and watered the same.

I've tried letting the plants dry out more between waterings. That hasn't helped. Over the past weeks I've applied some blood meal, chicken crap fertilizer and even Miracle Gro to different affected plants. I've also foliar fed seaweed, epsom salt, and Miracle Gro. Nothing has had any effect. I really don't think it's a nutrient issue.

I pulled out that smallest plant today. 4-5 others are showing symptoms to varying degrees. If I pull them also, I'll be yanking half my plants. I'm debating whether to do that.

Any thoughts? Does this look like TYLCV to you?

Being in South Florida, and fighting off TYLCV for years I can tell you that yes , unfortunately this is what you have. I am so sorry for you. The whiteflies do respond to spraying neem oil every 5 days, it controls them very well, but if you let up they do come back. Unfortunately it only takes one whitefly feeding on your plant for 15 minutes to spread the virus, according to the PHD I spoke to on the phone at the USDA.
In the end they always get my tomatoes, but not usually before I get a nice crop, because I don't get lazy with my spraying until late in the season
The noticeably infected plants should be pulled as soon as you see the first signs of leaf change, because the whiteflies do hop and feed from one to the next closest.
They are my biggest nemesis. The USDA lady told me to look close by for their source because they don't fly very far ( but can be carried by wind). In my case all my neighbors have very lush foliage and whiteflies eat a lot of things besides tomatoes, so my neighbors yards are the likely source for them.
Yellow sticky traps are not a wonderful deterrent but all things help somewhat.
I hope this helps you.

[tuk50]

ginger, do any varieties show resistance, or do all fall prey to the whitefly spread virus?
thanks.

[flyingbrass]

Thanks, ginger. I'll try some neem oil next season. It should help too with the aphids that gnaw on newly planted peppers.

I have the same question as tuk50. Have you found any commonly available varieties that are more resistant?

[Tracydr]

Ugh, 105 degrees predicted Tuesday. I hope this doesn't mean our 105+ days are here to stay or I won't be getting many tomatoes at all.
Had a bunch of striped roman fruit set but they all got blossom end rot. I'm wondering I'd I should put some gypsum or something on them? Or, is it just the weather? Seems like they've been evenly moist, maybe even a little too wet. This new bed has a little heavier dirt than I would like.

[ginger2778]

Tuk50 and Flyingbrass,
I have not personally used any resistant varieties, but I know Tomato Growers Supply has some. If you try them I would love to know how you like the taste, but it will probably be very different there than here, because we have high humidity.
At least you don't have too many fungal diseases to worry about!
I just have learned to be diligent at least for several months with the neem every 5 days, but that lesson got learned really just this season.
The 5 days is so that the nymphs that change to adults get "offed". It does work remarkably well.

[desertlzbn]

Have you considered using an insect growth regulator? I have been using Neemix 4.5 and I have seen a huge reduction in whiteflies this season. I am using it in con★★★★★★★★ with horticulture oil, and fish emulsion. It is very expensive, but it has cut down on the pests greatly.

[Tracydr]

Originally Posted by desertlzbn

Have you considered using an insect growth regulator? I have been using Neemix 4.5 and I have seen a huge reduction in whiteflies this season. I am using it in con★★★★★★★★ with horticulture oil, and fish emulsion. It is very expensive, but it has cut down on the pests greatly.

What brand do you use? What kind of oil? Any problem with burning?
My mother has another infected plant. The rest of hers look good. I have a whitefly issue on my eggplants, but haven't seen them on tomatoes, yet.

[tuk50]

Two varieties that seem to stand up to all diseases I've encountered so far are Big Beef and Bella Rosa.... I hope and pray I don't have to trial them with TYLCV..