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Old July 30, 2014   #1
b54red
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Default Daconil or copper?

I have really fallen down on applying fungicide the last few weeks because of the need to keep spraying spider mites to keep them under control. The result is I now have a definite problem with Early Blight moving too far up the plants. I sprayed this morning with the bleach spray in hopes of stopping it and will apply a fungicide this afternoon. I was just wondering which is better for Early Blight the copper spray or Daconil as a preventative?

Bill
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Old July 30, 2014   #2
Barbee
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I have good luck with Daconil because I spray multiple things at once and copper is not compatible with some other things I use. I like to spray pesticide, fungicide, and ferts all in one swoop.
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Old July 30, 2014   #3
carolyn137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barbee View Post
I have good luck with Daconil because I spray multiple things at once and copper is not compatible with some other things I use. I like to spray pesticide, fungicide, and ferts all in one swoop.
A twofer.

Bill, Daconil by a mile.

Barbee, quite a few years ago I wanted to spray both Daconil and a liquid fertilizer at the same time, hesitated and called I think Ortho's Daconil number, it could have been Bonide as well, and I was told never to spray anything else with Daconil at the same time>

The reason being that the dilution from the concentrate was such that there were sufficient molecules to cover the specific attachment sites of Early Blight and Septoria Leaf Spot on the upper leaf surface, but if the Daconil was diluted by adding something else, to which the chlorothalinol could attach to, or diluted so that there weren't enough molecules to block those attachment sites, it wouldn't be as effective as it should be.

Long sentence there, so I hope you followed me.

I was advised to spray for my low NPK fertilizer either three days before or three days after Daconil was to be applied, and did so and still have Freda who cares for the few plants I have here at home does so.

Just passing this along to others who may mix other stuff with the Daconil.

Carolyn
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Old July 30, 2014   #4
Dewayne mater
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Copper by itself is not that effective as an antifungal. Somewhere on T-ville a university study was posted that compared the effectiveness of various anti-fungals. Copper was quite a bit more effective if combined with mancozeb. If you don't want to use that combo, I'd go with daconil instead.

What were you attacking the spider mites with? In one bed (dirt) a spray of IGR and soap worked. In another bed (containers) multiple sprays of those, plus neem, plus spinosad, plus Take down, and I"m still not keeping the red devils at bay. Evil bugs.

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Old July 30, 2014   #5
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Everything I spray is in concentrate or water soluable powder form including the Daconil. I add each item to the same gallon of water then agitate all items together. Not sure how that would dilute the Daconil further but I guess it's possible? All I know is it works well. If I had to spray each thing separate I would be spraying something every week.
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Old July 30, 2014   #6
carolyn137
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Everything I spray is in concentrate or water soluable powder form including the Daconil. I add each item to the same gallon of water then agitate all items together. Not sure how that would dilute the Daconil further but I guess it's possible? All I know is it works well. If I had to spray each thing separate I would be spraying something every week.
But I said above, either or and the or was that the Daconil molecules could bind to other stuff and thus that alone could lessen the number of Daconil molecules available/

And I was spraying Daconil every week and sometimes more often when rain was an issue, which it is where I lived and gardened. And I mentioned Daconil to Freda this AM but she said she didnt see any problems on the foliage.

I had to turn on a small electric heater this AM, but the COLD weather is preventing my few tomato plants from going anywhere, sadly.

Carolyn
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Old July 30, 2014   #7
Barbee
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But I said above, either or and the or was that the Daconil molecules could bind to other stuff and thus that alone could lessen the number of Daconil molecules available/

And I was spraying Daconil every week and sometimes more often when rain was an issue, which it is where I lived and gardened. And I mentioned Daconil to Freda this AM but she said she didnt see any problems on the foliage.

I had to turn on a small electric heater this AM, but the COLD weather is preventing my few tomato plants from going anywhere, sadly.

Carolyn
I hear ya on the cold! I have been covering my giant watermelons every night to try and keep them warmer. Its very colorful out there right now with all the blankets LoL
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Old July 30, 2014   #8
b54red
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Thanks all.

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Old July 31, 2014   #9
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Bonide says you can combine this product with copper products.
From Fungonil label (same product as Daconil)
This product may be
combined in the spray tank
with EPA-registered pesticide
products that claim copper as
the active ingredient and are
labeled for control of bacterial
diseases of tomatoes. Check the
copper manufacturer's label for
specific instructions, precautions
and limitations prior to mixing

with this product
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Old July 31, 2014   #10
carolyn137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drew51 View Post
Bonide says you can combine this product with copper products.
From Fungonil label (same product as Daconil)
This product may be
combined in the spray tank
with EPA-registered pesticide
products that claim copper as
the active ingredient and are
labeled for control of bacterial
diseases of tomatoes. Check the
copper manufacturer's label for
specific instructions, precautions
and limitations prior to mixing

with this product
Thanks Drew.

Fungonil is what I have here at home but since Freda does the spraying I didn't read the label once I knew it was the same as the Ortho product I had used before.

EPA registered products I thought were to be used only by those persons, my farmer friend Charlie was one, who had an actual commercial pesticide license. I remember meeting Charlie's man from whom he ordered all those kinds of products.

The information I got when I called about Daconil was in the early 2000's, shortly after I moved to this new location.

And I'm wondering if home growers can use EPA registered products without a license.

I know that Charlie used various strengths of Bravo which was just a stronger concentration of Daconil, as did all the commercial farmers that I knew when I was still back in the Albany area.

Carolyn
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Old July 31, 2014   #11
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The labels are confusing but the info is from a home product. The Lime sulfur label is worse. You can combine with an oil for dormant treatment, but warns all over not to, yet says you can. it can be very confusing. Why it says not is if in leaf, it will kill all leaves, but during dormant season lime-sulfur with oil is excellent for fruit trees except Apricot.
No sulfur on apricots.
I myself would not use copper now, it can cause leaf damage. Just use the Daconil.
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Old August 1, 2014   #12
b54red
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I already sprayed with Daconil yesterday.

Bill
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Old August 1, 2014   #13
drew51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b54red View Post
I already sprayed with Daconil yesterday.

Bill

I sprayed today, some yellowing on bottom leaves. just in case.
Darn I was putting a net over my blueberries and knocked a huge green tomato off, dang!
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Old August 28, 2014   #14
manyplews
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I spray Daconil & Sevin about once a week - less frequent if it doesn't rain and humidity is decent - more frequently if it rains some daily.
I use a 3-gallon tank sprayer and concentrate per the instuctions on the label.
Have never had a serious problem with blight,even when the local Amish were plowing their crops under.
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Old March 22, 2015   #15
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Ive been mixing Daconil and Spinosad this year; Daconil 1 week and Daconil + Spinosad the next and so on

Was very happy with the results
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