Tomatoville® Gardening Forums


Notices

General information and discussion about cultivating beans, peas, peanuts, clover and vetch.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old February 25, 2019   #16
ContainerTed
Tomatovillian™
 
ContainerTed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 6a - NE Tennessee
Posts: 4,538
Default

I was raised up in Bristol, and had never heard of "Greasy Beans". Down here just north of Knoxville, my neigbors all asked me to grow them, and I did. My problem with them was that the danged Japanese Beetles insisted on defoliating them. The ones I had were surely a dwarf variety. They only got to about 18 inches tall on average. But, they really loaded up.

I think that there are a lot of places like East Tennessee and Western North Carolina that have "regional" favorites. My brother is like you. There's only one bean to grow and that is the White Half Runners. In the last ten years, I've grown maybe 30 or so different varieties and they all taste good to me. I especially liked the Rattlesnake variety. Turkey Craw and Kentucky Wonder were excellent as well.

Take care neighbor.
__________________
Ted
________________________
Owner & Sole Operator Of
The Muddy Bucket Farm
and Tomato Ranch





ContainerTed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old February 25, 2019   #17
LDiane
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I have lots of runner beans, but not the ones you mention.

A U.S. company is selling a mixed packet which might be useful and economical for you.

https://www.adaptiveseeds.com/produc...h-pop-organic/

This is their description: Phaseolus coccineus. Mix. 70-90 days.

A genetically diverse population of edible-pod type runner beans from the British Isles. We have loved growing runner beans from across the pond for some time now and with so many good ones in our trials, we decided to let the best coalesce into one big British Pop mix. Our favorites in this crossed- up mix are Tenderstar, Prizewinner, White Emergo, and Polestar. We have selected for vigor, yield, long pods, and a diversity of seed coat color – a rainbow of lavender pastels, black, white, tan, and speckles that are hard to describe. While the long and tender green pods are the main crop for this variety, the fresh shelled and dry beans themselves are also delicious. Since they are more tolerant of cooler weather conditions than common beans, they may grow back as a “perennial vegetable” if the ground doesn’t freeze too deeply in winter.
  Reply With Quote
Old February 26, 2019   #18
Tormato
Tomatovillian™
 
Tormato's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: MA
Posts: 4,968
Default

In general terms...


Phaseolus vulgaris = "common" bean


Phaseolus coccineus = "runner" bean



The confusion is where a common bean can be a (general terms again) "bush", "half runner", or "pole" (with "pole" sometimes called "runner").


I've begun to list beans at the MMMM thread, for the few participants who've been patiently waiting. I've started with "common" "bush" beans.



"Common" beans of "half runner" and "pole" habit will be listed next.
Tormato is offline   Reply With Quote
Old February 26, 2019   #19
salix
Tomatovillian™
 
salix's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: north central B.C.
Posts: 2,310
Default

So Gary, is it in fact true that the P. vulgaris varieties are pretty well self-pollinating and that seed saving is straightforward? And that P. coccineum requires insect or hummingbird pollination and must be grown somewhat in isolation for seed saving purposes? (or is this something not true that has been lodged in my brain for too long?)
__________________
"He who has a library and a garden wants for nothing." -Cicero
salix is offline   Reply With Quote
Old February 26, 2019   #20
ContainerTed
Tomatovillian™
 
ContainerTed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 6a - NE Tennessee
Posts: 4,538
Default

Salix, a bag of Blue Lake seed costs about 7 bucks at the local Co-op. With that kind of pricing, I can easily afford to buy new seed every year. Takes all the stress out of wondering if the new "seeds" will give the right plants. Some things are just not worth the "stress".

I have one recommendation that I can comfortably give. "Fields" seeds are as good as seeds get and the prices and shipping are great. I've had time to really judge whether or not seed suppliers can deliver the correct stuff. I do not give my approval lightly. Regardless of what we pay, we really want the variety to be the correct one.

Take care and hug your love ones before they aren't there to hug.
__________________
Ted
________________________
Owner & Sole Operator Of
The Muddy Bucket Farm
and Tomato Ranch





ContainerTed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old February 26, 2019   #21
LDiane
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by salix View Post
P. coccineum requires insect or hummingbird pollination and must be grown somewhat in isolation for seed saving purposes?
I don't isolate them in the garden as I'm just growing for myself so don't mind a bit of hybridization.

I made the mistake one winter of growing some runners in the greenhouse and got no beans from them at all as of course there were no pollinators.
  Reply With Quote
Old February 27, 2019   #22
Tormato
Tomatovillian™
 
Tormato's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: MA
Posts: 4,968
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by salix View Post
So Gary, is it in fact true that the P. vulgaris varieties are pretty well self-pollinating and that seed saving is straightforward? And that P. coccineum requires insect or hummingbird pollination and must be grown somewhat in isolation for seed saving purposes? (or is this something not true that has been lodged in my brain for too long?)

P. vulgaris are pretty well self-pollinating. I average about 1 in 250 saved seeds crossing (0.4%). Some varieties appear to be more promiscuous than others, with Jeminez being a stand-out.



I have no knowledge, yet, of P. coccineum's requirements for pollination or isolation. Some day, I'll look into it.


Lima beans are known to readily cross. So, I request that participants in the swap trial only one variety, or isolate.



I've yet to explore requirements for soy, yardlong, adzuki, etc...
Tormato is offline   Reply With Quote
Old February 27, 2019   #23
Tormato
Tomatovillian™
 
Tormato's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: MA
Posts: 4,968
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ContainerTed View Post
Salix, a bag of Blue Lake seed costs about 7 bucks at the local Co-op. With that kind of pricing, I can easily afford to buy new seed every year. Takes all the stress out of wondering if the new "seeds" will give the right plants. Some things are just not worth the "stress".

I have one recommendation that I can comfortably give. "Fields" seeds are as good as seeds get and the prices and shipping are great. I've had time to really judge whether or not seed suppliers can deliver the correct stuff. I do not give my approval lightly. Regardless of what we pay, we really want the variety to be the correct one.

Take care and hug your love ones before they aren't there to hug.


All the money in the world can't buy seed that no one has in stock. With beans, there have been many times where someone has posted this problem somewhere on the web.
Tormato is offline   Reply With Quote
Old February 27, 2019   #24
ContainerTed
Tomatovillian™
 
ContainerTed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 6a - NE Tennessee
Posts: 4,538
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tormato View Post
All the money in the world can't buy seed that no one has in stock. With beans, there have been many times where someone has posted this problem somewhere on the web.
I agree with you. But in the case of Blue Lake 274, even the seed displays at Walmart have my favorite in small quantities.

I always plant enough beans to make two rows about 12-18 apart and with seeds every 3-5 inches in each of the rows. I normally buy a bag of seeds that will give me that ability. I do all my beans, peas, and okra this way and gives me excellent harvest quantities.
__________________
Ted
________________________
Owner & Sole Operator Of
The Muddy Bucket Farm
and Tomato Ranch





ContainerTed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old February 28, 2019   #25
Tormato
Tomatovillian™
 
Tormato's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: MA
Posts: 4,968
Default

Blue Lake 274 shouldn't be a problem to find. I think Kentucky Wonder and Contender are about the only varieties I see even more of.



And, Cntender is the only bean variety (out of hundreds) I do not recommend to try.
Tormato is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 2, 2019   #26
Tormato
Tomatovillian™
 
Tormato's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: MA
Posts: 4,968
Default

I've listed most of my collection over at the 2018 Mostly Mystery 'Mater Mailing thread. I don't know if any of the runner beans are short vine varieties.
Tormato is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 2, 2019   #27
tootaloo
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: dayton ohio
Posts: 158
Default beans

I have quite a few beans for trade.
tootaloo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 4, 2019   #28
Gardeneer
Tomatovillian™
 
Gardeneer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NC - zone 8a - heat zone 7
Posts: 4,916
Default

Interesting discussion.
To my understanding, runner beans do well in the cool PNW, Enland like climate. I planted someo torp their flower, when i was up there. They produce huge pods, as shown in one of the posts above. Pole beaans, also grown as ornamentall. They produce thin small beans.
I am going to grow some bush type garden beans. I think it is some kind of Kentuckfy Blue lake.
__________________
Gardeneer

Happy Gardening !
Gardeneer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old June 17, 2020   #29
Jeannine Anne
Tomatovillian™
 
Jeannine Anne's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Canada
Posts: 1,553
Default

Ols post revived.Regular pole beans don't need the bees, runner beans do, oh and they cross easily.


I have 4 types of runner beans growing this year, 3 are supposed to be the new self pollinating ones, so far they are grwoing slower than the other one.
Jeannine Anne is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
beans , container , runner , seeds , wanted seeds

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:55 PM.


★ Tomatoville® is a registered trademark of Commerce Holdings, LLC ★ All Content ©2022 Commerce Holdings, LLC ★