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Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.

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Old January 20, 2011   #31
RinTinTin
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Any good nursery.
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Old January 20, 2011   #32
Marko
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Bag blossoms earlier. Last year I lost all bagged blossoms in extreme heat.
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Old January 20, 2011   #33
veggie babe
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First I would like to wish Catwabbit a wonderful growing season, it must be very difficult to hold back planting/growing tomatoes during long periods of illness. Good luck.

Ray put your wife's quilt up and stop putting your dirty gardening STUFF on it for pictures.

Everything I have planned has already been listed but..............
1. fewer unknown tomatoes to me. I am trying to restrict myself to toms I know prefrom in Texas heat/humidity.
2. I crowded my plants last year trying to plant 2 or 3 of everything, no crowding.
3. Like Kat, I plan to mulch more. I can't find straw either so I guess it will ge good ole East Texas hay with all of it's problems. (grass burrs and weed seed)
4. I am planting less garden....I did not have enough time last year to weed, can, keep up the yard, house and work full time.
5. get help. I am babysitting grandkids in the mornings this summer for daughter-in-law to go to school......they can be and are usually great help.

a great season to all

Neva
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Old January 20, 2011   #34
habitat_gardener
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stormymater View Post
where does one locate this grafting wax you speak of? (or pruning sealer for that matter)
Some rosarians use glue sticks to seal pruning cuts. There's some debate about whether cuts need to be sealed at all, though.
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Old January 20, 2011   #35
b54red
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Stormy, you will have diseases no matter what because you live in a high humidity and high heat area. It could be worse you could move further south. I have worse diseases when I don't prune than when I do prune. I quit caging about ten years ago and now use trellises which help keep the plant more open to air flow and sunshine and leaf diseases have been easier to control.
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Old January 20, 2011   #36
tam91
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Marking the tomatoes sure does sound like a good idea - what kind of pen is that? (I presume it just washes off, and is non-toxic)
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Old January 20, 2011   #37
PaulF
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I am not growing melons or pumpkins and adding more tomato space. After the last several years when the topic came, I always vowed to cut back. Well, the heck with it. After reading the thread about how many varieties folks have grown and all the dwarfs and crosses that need to be grown out, I figure I need to get it in gear especially since with the birthday threads reminding me how late it is getting. If I up my output to 40, which is all the space I have and if I can squeeze out another 30 years ... still not enough. I know a farm outside town I could rent... then there is my wife's iris and daylily beds ...
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Old January 20, 2011   #38
barkeater
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Like Marko, I will bag blossoms early for seed I want to save. I usually wait until mid summer and most of the time the bagged blossoms don't fruit.
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Old January 21, 2011   #39
lurley
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If someone will tell me what kind of marker to use ON the actual tomatoes, I am going to label them this year. Also, putting down permeable weed fabric in the pumpkin and melon patch and turning it's care and maintenance over to my 15 year old son who thinks he'd like to try and grow them to make some money and at the same time try growing a giant pumpkin.
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Old January 21, 2011   #40
FILMNET
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Thick Sharpie black pen the tomato must be dry, I write the simple name very close to the stem or around any cracks. Examples are BTD for Berkerly Tie Dye, Krim instead of Black Krim and so on. also check before i let to go if the ink dryed, somethimes it doesnt. just flip it over dry the other side. I put 2 whole large Stump of the world in a plastic bag. I use the vacuum plastic bag machine, i can still read the names of each fruit in bags in the freezer.
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Old January 21, 2011   #41
Dawningstar1
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Okay the thing I am doing differently this year is making my own tomatoe cages.... my tomatoes every year grow between 6 and 10 feet high and what are those dang cages about 2 feet high so we are constantly looking for ways to stake them.... so this year I am going to make my own cages I figure for around $50.00 I can make 24 to 30 cages that will be about 7 feet high.... I just don't know if I will use fishing line or strong rope type string any ideas.... I worry that the string could rot in the rain before the season is over... am I over thinking it lol
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Old January 21, 2011   #42
dipchip2000
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What do you need the string for if using cages??

ron
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Old January 21, 2011   #43
Dawningstar1
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I am going to build my own cages as the ones you buy are cheaply made, and not tall enough.... my idea is to by 2 X 2's and tie three in a circle design same as cheap ones but longer lol... and the string or fishing line is the part that keeps the poles together lol I just want to make sure if I use string it won't rot before season is through, sometimes with the cheap wire cages I found they break from the weight...

Now I have tried buying two wire cages and putting them together but that didn't work so well, I figure the wood would be stronger lol...
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Old January 21, 2011   #44
dipchip2000
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I am not sure I understand how you are going to put these together. Unless you have an inexpensive source for the wood, you are going to have more money in a single cage than if you make it out of concrete reinforcement wire. These will run about 3to4 dollars depending how big around you make them but they will be 5feet tall. If you use the wood and string, use hay baling poly twine as it will last a long time and is very strong.

ron
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Old January 21, 2011   #45
husker nana
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You can find many video's on building tomato cages. If you look up the one below you can get an ideal of a better cage. We made these last year and were very pleased with them. We did go a little larger with the width. Not neccessary. The cost well worth them as they will last for years. You can reach in to get your produce without a problem.

bayou gardener tomato cage
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