Diatomaceous Earth as a seed starting medium - Page 24

BruceinGa · February 5, 2013

I bought my UltraSorb at ORileys Auto Parts. I had to ask for it as they didn't have it on the sales floor.

February 5, 2013

I have a question for the DE users-I have sowed some pepper seeds in 3 ice trays(holes in bottom)-I am amazed how water wicks up! But after about 5 days, the surface seems like the sprouts may have a hard time poking through- kind of firm and stuck together. Will they be strong enough to break through?

Redbaron · February 5, 2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by JoParrott

I have a question for the DE users-I have sowed some pepper seeds in 3 ice trays(holes in bottom)-I am amazed how water wicks up! But after about 5 days, the surface seems like the sprouts may have a hard time poking through- kind of firm and stuck together. Will they be strong enough to break through?

Mist the top with a spray bottle and cover the egg cartons with a sheet of clear plastic wrap

This will keep the DE (or any seed medium) from forming a crust. It will also help keep the surface temps from dropping due to evaporation.

RayR · February 5, 2013

JoParrot, I've never had a problem with the UltraSorb or the OptiSorb (that's what you're using?) forming a crust. Seedlings pop through it like it wasn't there.
What Redbaron said is good advise, especially while your trays are on bottom heat with the heat mat.

February 5, 2013

OK, that's what I have been doing- it really isn't a crust, it just sems like they are sort of solid- I'll poke them with a toothpick!

zeroma · February 5, 2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by RayR

That's the wrong one, it's not DE. Oil Absorbent is their Montmorillonite clay, which I already tried is too acidic for seed starting. If you got that #7133 at Autozone, they also carry Ultrasorb which is part# 8818, 100% Diatomaceous Earth, 15lb bag, that's the one you want.

Just bumping this thread up for all who did what I did and bought the wrong stuff!!!

zeroma · February 5, 2013

If using egg cartons to start out, how do you mark your seeds?

February 5, 2013

zeroma, I used paper and sketched out the configuration ofthe cells. See attachment- The upper part is for info- lower I guess I will write when they emerge- 1st time, so I'm learning!

b54red · February 5, 2013

Quote:

Originally Posted by zeroma

If using egg cartons to start out, how do you mark your seeds?

If I am planting a lot of different varieties than I take the flap and fold a piece of duct tape over it and then write on that. It gives me a foot long nice writing surface about 3/4 of and inch tall. I use a Sharpie and always plant two cells with the same seed making it easier to keep them straight. That way I can plant 6 different varieties in each carton or less if I want more of a particular variety. I have been doing this for years and it is easy and neat. Just make sure the tape is put on before you fill and water the cells. I use the bottom of the tray for a watering pan by taking a two pieces of tape and folding it over the area with the fastener holes so it will hold more water.

I don't leave my trays in the bottom watering pan after they are wet because I still worry about damping off and keeping them wet too much caused so much algae to grow on the surface. I just check them every day and any that are drying out I re-water from the bottom again. Don't top water DE as it moves too much when water hits it. I top water plants that have good established root systems sometimes because the roots will hold most of the DE in place; but even then you have to be very careful and use a slow fine sprinkle.

When potting up it is better to have recently watered the DE as it will cling to the roots better when transplanting. I just scoop the seedlings out of the cells with a spoon and place in the larger cup with potting soil. They don't even wilt.

February 5, 2013

red, I really appreciate all of your info- since this is a new venture, getting into DE. I have high hopes, and want to do it as correctly as possible. I sprouted some cabbage for a neighbor in just 4 days in DE- she is really happy!

b54red · February 6, 2013

I forgot to mention that you have to be careful when putting drain holes in the cells of the egg cartons. If they are too large you will lose too much of the DE through them. I use a small drill bit and put 4 or 5 holes in the bottom of each cell. I put so many holes because it speeds
up the bottom watering process.

zeroma · February 6, 2013

Well, I cut the tops off the first egg carton and the cup part doesn't fit nicely into the top. The bottoms of the cups don't touch the 'tray'. So I came up with my own plan.

I'm a knitter/sewer/crafter, so I got a large eyed, very pointed big needle, poked one small hole in the cups, then threaded the yarn needle with the cotton yarn you make dishcloths with, and added a wick to each egg cup. So I have wicking egg cartons. I could now use the tops as trays.

But of course, I'd already decided not to use the tops of the carton, because yesterday I got my order of 4 X 4" pots and trays in the mail. I decided to get them instead of using the yogurt cups and 9 x 13" foil cake pans. I can fit 1 large 18 egg carton, 1 regular 12 egg carton side by side and then cut the end 2 cups off 2 cartons and fit them in the opposite direction. 50 egg cups per tray.

I'll grow 150 tomatos - I have 150 4 " pots. I'll have the 24 plus I need for the garden I volunteer with and some to give family and friends and some to trade at the CHOPTAG exchange on May 5. Oh, and some for me too.

I don't think the DE will fall out of the tiny hole I made, and the thick cotton yarn fills the hole made from threading it through, so no fall out there either. I did it all while watching TV last night. We just have to eat more eggs as I need more cartons!!!!

Father'sDaughter · February 6, 2013

Quick question --

Some have said to let the DE dry out before removing seedlings when repotting, and other have said to make sure it's moist, so do you want the DE clinging to the roots, do you want to be able to shake it off the roots, or does it really matter???

RayR · February 6, 2013

If you are using the smaller aggregate (UltraSorb) let it dry a little bit, it's easier to separate the roots. For the larger aggregate (Optisorb), I don't think it makes much difference from my experience.
Root hairs will grow into the pores of the DE, I just leave them be.

Father'sDaughter · February 6, 2013

Thanks RayR!

I just got a bag of the Ultrasorb from Autozone and will be starting my next round of seeds in it shortly. Onions have already been started in MG seed starting mix, so too late for trying them in DE this year. Germination was close to 90% for the Tropea onions, but much lower for the Copras, and Red Wings. I'm wondering how they would have done in DE, but unfortunately I only have Tropea seeds left.

February 6, 2013	#357
zeroma Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2012 Location: SW Ohio Posts: 637	Well, I cut the tops off the first egg carton and the cup part doesn't fit nicely into the top. The bottoms of the cups don't touch the 'tray'. So I came up with my own plan. I'm a knitter/sewer/crafter, so I got a large eyed, very pointed big needle, poked one small hole in the cups, then threaded the yarn needle with the cotton yarn you make dishcloths with, and added a wick to each egg cup. So I have wicking egg cartons. I could now use the tops as trays. But of course, I'd already decided not to use the tops of the carton, because yesterday I got my order of 4 X 4" pots and trays in the mail. I decided to get them instead of using the yogurt cups and 9 x 13" foil cake pans. I can fit 1 large 18 egg carton, 1 regular 12 egg carton side by side and then cut the end 2 cups off 2 cartons and fit them in the opposite direction. 50 egg cups per tray. I'll grow 150 tomatos - I have 150 4 " pots. I'll have the 24 plus I need for the garden I volunteer with and some to give family and friends and some to trade at the CHOPTAG exchange on May 5. Oh, and some for me too. I don't think the DE will fall out of the tiny hole I made, and the thick cotton yarn fills the hole made from threading it through, so no fall out there either. I did it all while watching TV last night. We just have to eat more eggs as I need more cartons!!!! Last edited by zeroma; February 6, 2013 at 10:07 AM.

February 6, 2013	#359
RayR Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Cheektowaga, NY Posts: 2,466	If you are using the smaller aggregate (UltraSorb) let it dry a little bit, it's easier to separate the roots. For the larger aggregate (Optisorb), I don't think it makes much difference from my experience. Root hairs will grow into the pores of the DE, I just leave them be. Last edited by RayR; February 6, 2013 at 07:21 PM.

February 5, 2013	#346
BruceinGa Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Marietta, Ga Posts: 83	I bought my UltraSorb at ORileys Auto Parts. I had to ask for it as they didn't have it on the sales floor.

February 5, 2013	#349
RayR Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Cheektowaga, NY Posts: 2,466	JoParrot, I've never had a problem with the UltraSorb or the OptiSorb (that's what you're using?) forming a crust. Seedlings pop through it like it wasn't there. What Redbaron said is good advise, especially while your trays are on bottom heat with the heat mat.

February 5, 2013	#350
JoParrott Guest Posts: n/a	OK, that's what I have been doing- it really isn't a crust, it just sems like they are sort of solid- I'll poke them with a toothpick!

February 5, 2013	#352
zeroma Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2012 Location: SW Ohio Posts: 637	If using egg cartons to start out, how do you mark your seeds?

February 5, 2013	#355
JoParrott Guest Posts: n/a	red, I really appreciate all of your info- since this is a new venture, getting into DE. I have high hopes, and want to do it as correctly as possible. I sprouted some cabbage for a neighbor in just 4 days in DE- she is really happy!

February 6, 2013	#356
b54red Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Alabama Posts: 7,068	I forgot to mention that you have to be careful when putting drain holes in the cells of the egg cartons. If they are too large you will lose too much of the DE through them. I use a small drill bit and put 4 or 5 holes in the bottom of each cell. I put so many holes because it speeds up the bottom watering process.

February 6, 2013	#358
Father'sDaughter Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: MA/NH Border Posts: 4,917	Quick question -- Some have said to let the DE dry out before removing seedlings when repotting, and other have said to make sure it's moist, so do you want the DE clinging to the roots, do you want to be able to shake it off the roots, or does it really matter???

February 6, 2013	#360
Father'sDaughter Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: MA/NH Border Posts: 4,917	Thanks RayR! I just got a bag of the Ultrasorb from Autozone and will be starting my next round of seeds in it shortly. Onions have already been started in MG seed starting mix, so too late for trying them in DE this year. Germination was close to 90% for the Tropea onions, but much lower for the Copras, and Red Wings. I'm wondering how they would have done in DE, but unfortunately I only have Tropea seeds left.