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Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.

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Old May 26, 2014   #226
jmhammRN
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Originally Posted by Salsacharley View Post
Justin's example above demonstrates why I am afraid to use TTF in Sub-Irrigated-Planter systems. I still use it but I fertilize from the top with it.
Charley,

I wonder if the only reason it settles so quickly is because it is extremely concentrated?? When I add to the reservoir I make sure the the container has a little lower water level than normal, not empty as to hurt wicking though. I just put the fert in undiluted and blast a stream of water, jet setting on the sprayer, to really mix it up. Hopefully when it becomes dilute in the reservoir it stays that way.

Also, I try to keep the reservoir topped off in between fill ups - so hopefully this mixes any settling that may occur......in addition to keeping the water from being stagnate for very long.
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Old May 26, 2014   #227
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Originally Posted by Salsacharley View Post
Justin's example above demonstrates why I am afraid to use TTF in Sub-Irrigated-Planter systems. I still use it but I fertilize from the top with it.
The pics aren't displaying for some reason. But it sounds like a "shake" comment.

Our nutrients will settle quickly, but they "agitate" right back. If using regularly, you only need to shake 3-5 seconds immediately before pouring. If stored in cold temps (not recommended) or over extended shelf time it's better to put the bottle in a greenhouse or warm car and bring the bottle temp up. Shake off and on for 1-3 mins until it looks like chocolate milk again.

Once our nutrients are dissolved and stirred at working strength they won't settle out again (well, maybe some of the humic acid will), and this shouldn't be more than 20-30 seconds, if that. As long as you aren't using as a concentrate and drawing directly from them with an injector/proportioner, you will be fine in any system, so your sub-irrigation should be no problem.

Actually, in response to a question last year, we began experimenting with a Dramm Siphonject (20:1) and a Hozon (16:1). We can go as high as 8oz per gal of water in a concentrate bucket. That makes for a 16:1 ratio, which is a perfect match for the Hozon and close enough for the Dramm. Stir the bucket every 5-10 mins. But we haven't had the best luck with these proportioners being consistent....sometimes they work and sometimes they don't. No doubt, user error.

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Old May 29, 2014   #228
CrazyAboutOrchids
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Question - I used Vegie on my seedlings as they grew. They were planted out May 15 and this week I have blossoms appearing. Do I switch to Tomato now or wait till I see fruits starting?
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Old May 29, 2014   #229
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Originally Posted by CrazyAboutOrchids View Post
Question - I used Vegie on my seedlings as they grew. They were planted out May 15 and this week I have blossoms appearing. Do I switch to Tomato now or wait till I see fruits starting?

I just looked at the TTF jug and it says to use the Vegetable from "germination to fruit set." I'm at the same stage -- blossoms appearing -- and have been wondering the same thing, so I guess I'll be sticking with the Veg. formula for a bit longer.
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Old May 29, 2014   #230
ScottinAtlanta
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Just applied TTF for the first time - mixing in watering cans and applying by hand.

One comment: the bottles dribble when pouring, which is annoying and wastes product.
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Old May 29, 2014   #231
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Originally Posted by ScottinAtlanta View Post
Just applied TTF for the first time - mixing in watering cans and applying by hand.

One comment: the bottles dribble when pouring, which is annoying and wastes product.
the bottle i ordered came with a hole in the lid, a good eighth inch diameter, and about a quarter of the bottle had spilled into the bag it was in. luckily i didn't lose any because of the bag but i poured it into a mason jar and wrapped it in tin foil to keep the light out. i shake it up and use a syringe with a length of airline tubing to measure it out

edit: after seeing this post urbanfarmer sent me a pm explaining that the hole is a vent system and shouldn't normally fail, it must have been thrown around in shipping to cause it to leak. i'm pretty impressed with the customer service i didn't ask for a replacement as i didn't lose any product so no harm done but just the fact a replacement was offered says a lot about the service!

Last edited by RootLoops; May 29, 2014 at 12:00 PM.
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Old May 30, 2014   #232
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Rootloops, one of the 2 bottles I'd ordered also arrived like yours did, but the liquid lost in my case was minimal as the packaging was excellent. I saved it too.
But like ScottinAltanta says, yes they do dribble, esp in the beginning when the bottles are full. So what I do is, I always get a 5 gal bucket full of water ready and shake and measure out the liquid over the bucket. I then close the cap and gently dunk the bottle in the bucket, being careful to hold it by the cap portion so no water can get in. So far so good, I like the products.
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Old May 30, 2014   #233
Lindalana
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Am getting my order delivered. Am wondering what is most favored way of application for regular garden- foliar feed or soil drench.
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Old May 30, 2014   #234
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Am getting my order delivered. Am wondering what is most favored way of application for regular garden- foliar feed or soil drench.
Soil drench. I use an Ortho Feed n Spray. I dilute the TTF 2 to 1 then set the delivery rate at one ounce to the gallon and just soak the ground under the plants. When the plants get really large I do the same thing except I set the delivery rate at an ounce and a half per gallon. Through out the season I adjust the strength of the solution I deliver to the plants according to how the plants look. If they are slightly pale or not growing and setting good enough I up the dose to the full recommended rate and if they are very dark green I will lower the rate to about half normal. With experience you will be able to read the health of individual plants and adjust the feeding to meet their needs. The reason I dilute the fertilizer first when I put it in the sprayer is so it won't clog up the little screen on the end of the suction tube. I also shake the sprayer frequently to keep the mix from settling.

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Old May 30, 2014   #235
Lindalana
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Bill,
thank you! Also if someone can elaborate why we are using 2 different ones all vegetable for growth stage and TTF after fruiting set. The NPK number does not seem that dramatically different...
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Old May 31, 2014   #236
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Bill,
thank you! Also if someone can elaborate why we are using 2 different ones all vegetable for growth stage and TTF after fruiting set. The NPK number does not seem that dramatically different...
I could be wrong but I think the calcium levels are much higher in the TTF. I have used the TTF on seedlings with no problems. I do know that for me fruit set is better with the TTF.

Bill
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Old May 31, 2014   #237
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just ordered some of the vegetable formula last night gonna see how it does!
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Old June 3, 2014   #238
CrazyAboutOrchids
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I asked about the switch and reasoning behind it....

Seems that most using your fertilizers, including me, are using the Vegie formula on seedlings, however in reading some use Tomato, some Fruit. So, at what point do I switch over to Tomato? My seedlings were hardened off, planted out on May 15th and I have flowers starting. Should I make the switch now? Later? And then, what is the reasoning behind using vegie first then switching? Instead of just following along with the crowd, I'd like to know what is the best way and why. Apples & Oranges is also a good NPK ratio for seedlings, because seedlings don't need as much P and K. That's why, early on, A & O might be the better choice. Switch when the first little tomatoes are noticeable. And you can make a slow 1/2 and 1/2 transition if you want.


The reason for the 1-2 punch is to provide an optimized match for the changing nutrient needs of vegetables as they pass through their life cycle. This is standard practice in the commercial greenhouse production world. Higher N early, less N later, with a significant bump in Ca, K, and Mg. Loaded tomato plants feed on these heavily.
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Old June 4, 2014   #239
b54red
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrazyAboutOrchids View Post
I asked about the switch and reasoning behind it....

Seems that most using your fertilizers, including me, are using the Vegie formula on seedlings, however in reading some use Tomato, some Fruit. So, at what point do I switch over to Tomato? My seedlings were hardened off, planted out on May 15th and I have flowers starting. Should I make the switch now? Later? And then, what is the reasoning behind using vegie first then switching? Instead of just following along with the crowd, I'd like to know what is the best way and why. Apples & Oranges is also a good NPK ratio for seedlings, because seedlings don't need as much P and K. That's why, early on, A & O might be the better choice. Switch when the first little tomatoes are noticeable. And you can make a slow 1/2 and 1/2 transition if you want.


The reason for the 1-2 punch is to provide an optimized match for the changing nutrient needs of vegetables as they pass through their life cycle. This is standard practice in the commercial greenhouse production world. Higher N early, less N later, with a significant bump in Ca, K, and Mg. Loaded tomato plants feed on these heavily.
I used Apples and Oranges on all my seedlings this year and it actually worked a little better than the Vegetable formula on my tomato seedlings.

I switch to the TTF when most of the plants are blooming but use it at a reduced rate until they are a little larger. My first and second dose of TTF are usually around 1/2 strength then after that use TTF at the recommended rate unless the plants are looking really dark green then I will cut back a little.

Bill
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Old June 4, 2014   #240
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Got my order today! Bill, I so get what you are saying about how green is green, took me a while but eventually one gets to see and recognize healthy green. We are starting with half strength today...
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