February 17, 2017 | #181 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Greenville, South Carolina
Posts: 3,099
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Well good news. I have been opening my healing chamber all week and yesterday I decided that it was live or die time. and removed the plants from the chamber, so far they look fine and it looks like they will all make it. I did notice one of the plants cuts didnt get lined up well so I don't know if I will use it regardless. My 7 newer grafts all look fine still and I think they should probably heal faster. I left most of the roots on a couple and so far no separation. I have been sticking the tops of my rootstock in DE to root and so far have only lost 1. I didn't even put them in the healing chamber just misted with water every day. If all of my 12 grafts live I'm going to be very happy plus getting to use the tops a second time is great.
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February 17, 2017 | #182 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Siena-Monteriggioni, Italy
Posts: 213
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http://www.tomatobomo.com/en/recherc...submit_search= 25 seeds for € 5,40 is a fair deal (0,22 cents per seed). Shipping costs are a flat € 2,00 so I added some seeds of a couple of varieties I had been looking for (Armenian, Tegucigalpa) and should be enough considering that this is an experiment and that by the way my garden is pretty small. I’m planning on using this rootstock to improve the size and the yields of some varieties that are supposed to be not so productive (Noire Charbonneise, Dr. Lyle and Slankard’s for example). To fight BER which affected basically all of the few paste tomatoes I had last year, I will use another rootstock. It’s called Franchi Scipio F1 (BER, VERT, FUS resistant). It’s not sold for this purpose but I’ll give it a try. If it doesn’t work…..never mind. |
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February 17, 2017 | #183 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Siena-Monteriggioni, Italy
Posts: 213
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I finally purchased the red clips but I should probably get myself a second type of a different size as everybody is suggesting that. However thanks for your tip. Dami |
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February 17, 2017 | #184 | |
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Side grafting is a different story however and I'm pleased to say that this year 100% of my grafts took and I have plants bearing fruit with double leaders 3m long |
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February 17, 2017 | #185 | |
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If I can side graft outside, just using those red clips and some plywood squares to shade the grafts from the midday heat then you might want to try it yourself - what have you got to lose? Granted it's easier to do in a semi-controlled environment. I just put the two plants into the same pot after making the graft then cover it with a plastic bag (with a wire hoop for support) and put them in the shade for a week or two, bottom-watering from the third day. Good luck whatever you try. |
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February 17, 2017 | #186 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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Quote:
another problem with continually rooting root stock is the plant will eventually develop diseases and pests like aphids. It is easier to use the young seedlings from seed as they are more consistent in size and more tender thus taking grafts better. I bought 500 RST-04-106-T seeds for a little more than a 100 dollars since I had good luck with germinating the old seed from last year. At 20 cents a seed the cost is not so prohibitive and I can afford to plant more to assure a decent stand each time. I'm sure as the use of root stock for grafting increases the cost of seeds will eventually come down as they already have. Buying very small quantities is still ridiculously expensive with some vendors I have noticed when browsing seed sites. Bill |
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February 17, 2017 | #187 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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Bill |
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February 17, 2017 | #188 | |
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Even if I did get pests though it wouldn't be hard to take the healthiest growing tip, remove any infestation and re-start the plant. I'm not saying it's better than how you graft by any means - that's why I'm taking in all of your generously shared information and why I'm ordering rootstock seeds. I just mention it as it enabled me to have healthy grafted plants* for two seasons when I couldn't otherwise access rootstock. [*] I like my plants grafted as I can get by most summers without having to water them (other than maybe three times over a week if it's dry after first planting out) due to the large and vigorous root systems. No watering not only means less work but also less fungal-type issues, less Whitefly for some reason and, last but certainly not least, far fewer weeds. At least that has been my experience to date, granted only with Maxifort and a couple of scion types. Shaun. |
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February 18, 2017 | #189 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: MN Zone4b
Posts: 292
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BVV, I wouldn't worry about the one that didn't go on quite straight. Once they start actively growing after they head, the plant more than makes up for it. By end of season even here, the stems all look like trees, regardless of whether they were perfectly straight to begin with.
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Bitterwort |
February 18, 2017 | #190 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NC - zone 8a - heat zone 7
Posts: 4,916
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Bad News : I have sadly to report a 100% failure rate.
My lone graft died of KNOWN cause : Root stock damping off or a BAD contact, me thinks. The scion was trying to make a joint but the root stock did not co operate. The scion tried hard to hang in there for 9 days. A close autopsy of the root stock showed a healthy root system. I am growing more Big Beef , as RS, to try again.
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Gardeneer Happy Gardening ! |
February 18, 2017 | #191 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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Bill |
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February 18, 2017 | #192 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: MA/NH Border
Posts: 4,919
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Quote:
In an earlier post he said he did not, which is concerning me because this is what I am considering trying. So I read back through the older posts on this plant's progression. Looks like it came out of the healing chamber on day six or seven. Do you think maybe it wasn't in there long enough? |
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February 18, 2017 | #193 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Greenville, South Carolina
Posts: 3,099
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The thing that seemed to make or break my success was removing the cover to ween them off the humidity. Mine would wilt badly in 30 mins or so at first, but over time I could go 2-3 hours then overnight then finally 24 hours before deciding that they were ready. Even then a couple were slightly wilted but I left them out anyway and now they are under the lights and doing well.
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February 18, 2017 | #194 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Greenville, South Carolina
Posts: 3,099
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February 18, 2017 | #195 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NC - zone 8a - heat zone 7
Posts: 4,916
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As I have said before , I did not remove the RS from its pot and grafted right onto it. You live and learn. Experience is another name for our mistakes. But there is always another time.
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Gardeneer Happy Gardening ! |
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