Shady, steep slope

[babice]

Sigh . Slight set back. Had an appt with a company Monday to check that crack and then they cancelled (pooey on them) because the backside of the crack is likely in a place that can't be accessed from behind. There's this tiny crawlspace that DH says is like only 2-3 ft and it just has gravel in it. It was sealed many years ago by a company that came out to do things in the basement to lower the radon levels. So, currently that space is sealed up. We could have that company unseal it, of course. DH thinks we still wouldn't even be able to see the backside of the crack (he thinks it's lower than that space).

ANYHOO - now what to do? Stupid company.

[Worth1]

What is the progress on the crack?

The discolored line on the foundation, is that where the soil used to be?

I also see that it looks like the deck posts are just sitting on round concrete blocks and no footings, is this true.

I have almost exactly the same thing on the back of my house just no deck.


What kind of soil is it?

It could be that the soil below is moving causing the soil under the deck to move.
My solution would be to dig down and put a retaining wall around the deck then close it in with lattice.
I wouldn't grow anything under there.


Worth

[Worth1]

I know this would be costly but to avoid washout from your foundation or any foundation on a slope this is what should be done.
You dont have to do this in rocky areas where your house is built on stone.

You may also think about putting these retaining walls around the rest of the house.
I feel that a house that is built on clay soil should be level around it for a good piece before the slope starts.

If not you will always have problems with erosion in the wrong place.

Even with gutters.

Here is what I am going to have to do and it may be an option for you.
The back of my place is level for 12 feet before the slope starts.

Attachment 27759

Worth

[babice]

Originally Posted by Worth1

What is the progress on the crack?

The discolored line on the foundation, is that where the soil used to be?

I also see that it looks like the deck posts are just sitting on round concrete blocks and no footings, is this true.

I have almost exactly the same thing on the back of my house just no deck.


What kind of soil is it?

It could be that the soil below is moving causing the soil under the deck to move.
My solution would be to dig down and put a retaining wall around the deck then close it in with lattice.
I wouldn't grow anything under there.


Worth

Hi - no progress. Sadly noticed another crack yesterday. I really can't believe that company doesn't want my business. I asked them if they couldn't just come out and tell me if it is worth unsealing that crawl space. They said they'd get back to me....that was a week ago. I'm going to have to call someone else.
Yes, the discolored line is where the soil used to be. The area above this is a deck. I think you're right - I "think" the posts are just sitting on round concrete blocks. (by footing - you mean that it's not cemented into the block, right?).

I'm not very sure what kind of soil it is. I know I put a layer of garden soil on top a couple of years ago. I'm not sure if it's top soil below that or what. How do you tell?

Your idea about the lattice surround is good. So, out of curiousity - why are you saying you wouldn't grow anything under there? Bear in mind that is does get water dripping down in between the deck slats either when I water the tomatoes or when it rains.

[Worth1]

A footing is concrete that is dug down to a prescribed depth in the soil.

The size and depth is determined on the weight of the structure and what it will be used for.
They also sell adjustsble post brackets you can put into the footing to attach the posts to.
Here is an example of one.


I prefer this over putting the post into the concrete because-----
The post can be replaced.
The deck can be leveled.
The deck is secured the the ground and helps keep it in place during high winds.
It keeps the post from standing in water.

I'm not concerned about the soil that was put down during the construction of the house.

But the soil that was there before the house was built.
If it is clay soil you dont want to deeply soak the ground around the house and let it dry out.
This causes the soil to shift and play the devil with your foundation.
Rain gutters are a must.

As far as the lattice and not growing anything under the deck?
It is my own personal taste in design, I feel not having the bottom of the deck inclosed gives it an unfinished look.
To me it is more aesthetically pleasing to the eye.

Many people make the mistake of designing their own house and landscape.
To some it comes naturally to others it is a nightmare.

By the way I love your deck and our yard I am just rambling about some of the crazy things I see around here.

About 7 miles down the road there is the house that never gets finished.
It seems as though the people change their mind and head off in another design direction every year or so.

Worth

[babice]

Thanks so much for your input Worth! I really appreciate it. I have kinda been in panic attack mode since yesterday when I discovered the other crack. It helps me to "discuss" it. But, I'm trying to just remind myself that we'll get someone out here to take care of it and it will be all right.

I don't know what kind of soil the house was built on. But I will try to find out! Geesh. So - beyond the cost of first repairing the foundation - how much would it typically run to do the type of walls and lattice work you're planning to do with your deck?

p.s. DH wants us to get a structural engineer to look at it before we get a contractor out. I think that's wise.

[Worth1]

Originally Posted by babice

Thanks so much for your input Worth! I really appreciate it. I have kinda been in panic attack mode since yesterday when I discovered the other crack. It helps me to "discuss" it. But, I'm trying to just remind myself that we'll get someone out here to take care of it and it will be all right.

I don't know what kind of soil the house was built on. But I will try to find out! Geesh. So - beyond the cost of first repairing the foundation - how much would it typically run to do the type of walls and lattice work you're planning to do with your deck?

p.s. DH wants us to get a structural engineer to look at it before we get a contractor out. I think that's wise.

One thing that might help you out a little is the cinder block does not have re-bar in it.
It can and will crack due to stress, it does not positively mean your foundation footings are cracked.

If it doesn't get any worse I wouldn't worry about it, life's way too short.

I have to put an addition to the back of the house then the deck and that is in the future.

As far as the cost I would have no idea what it would be.

I do know from pricing around that I saved about $4.000 maybe more, on the hardwood floor I put in the garage myself for $1.000

The idea of hiring an engineer to do the design is the right way to go.
To have a contractor come out and tell you what they will do is the wrong way to go.

Anybody that has work done needs to make that contractor realize he works for you, its your money not his.
You call the shots.

They shall work off of a spec sheet to the engineers specifications and they will sign your contract not theirs.

When I had my driveway installed I told the contractor what I wanted and how much concrete they would use to do the job.

I did the specs on the PSI the minimum thickness and the re-bar to be used and how much.
They did it the next day and was finished the day after that.
I had my wife put money into their account as the work was done in stages with the finale pay off at the end of the job.

I told them they would use 27 yards of concrete and when it was finished.
The truck receipts showed that 26.5 yards was used with about a 5 gallon bucket left.

The first day they were to show up they called me and said they were going to be about 45 minutes late and they were.
I knew from that I had picked the right contractor.

Don't ever-ever allow a contractor to not answer your calls, not show up or blow you off.
It is a bad sign and you dont want them on your property.

They should have a computer and even better a smart phone.
They should have an email address you can communicate with them with at the very least and they should answer it in at least 2 hours.

If you have to politely remind them their problems aren't your problems, dont let them make up excuses.

I have years of experience doing this and I have seen it all and know what to look out for.

One last thing, look at the road cutouts in you neighborhood and surrounding area.
This will help you know what kind of soil you are on.
The local county engineer can help you out a lot too and he is free to get advice and and information from.

Worth