Tomatoville® Gardening Forums


Notices

A garden is only as good as the ground that it's planted in. Discussion forum for the many ways to improve the soil where we plant our gardens.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old May 13, 2014   #1
solid7
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Florida (East Central Coast)
Posts: 78
Default Want to build a coco based organic mix for SWC/SIP

Does anyone here have any experience with bulding an organic coco based soil mix for a self-watering container, such as an Earthtainer, Earthbox, etc?

I want to try - if possible - to get away from the "the strip", as I don't like using synthetic fertilizers. If possible, I want to utilize my rabbits and worms to provide me with what I need.

Containers are easy. Self watering containers are new ground for me.

Thank you.
solid7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old May 13, 2014   #2
rnewste
Tomatovillian™
 
rnewste's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 4,064
Default

I would suggest you include significant amounts of Perlite to make sure your mix is well drained, especially in FL. Can't recommend anything on topical fertilizer application versus the strip approach. Perhaps folks using EarthBoxes can provide input.

Raybo
rnewste is offline   Reply With Quote
Old May 13, 2014   #3
solid7
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Florida (East Central Coast)
Posts: 78
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rnewste View Post
I would suggest you include significant amounts of Perlite to make sure your mix is well drained, especially in FL.
OK, thanks for your reply. Is vermiculite an acceptable substitute for perlite? I have 4 cu ft of "specialty" vermiculite, which most people around here use for starting seeds. It's very small - about pin head size.

For what it's worth - I'm not opposed to "the strip", but *if possible*, I'd like to use what I already have - which is my worm castings and rabbit poo. (although I'm not sure if that would be added to the soil, or applied the same as "the strip") Since the imperative phrase is "if possible", I'll also take suggestions on any type of organic ferts that people here would recommend.

It sounds like from what you've told me so far, the preferred choice is a fairly inert mix, with all nutrition being provided by way of "the strip". This would be sort of a hydroponic approach, no?

Last edited by solid7; May 13, 2014 at 06:53 PM.
solid7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old May 13, 2014   #4
jmhammRN
Tomatovillian™
 
jmhammRN's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Edmond,OK
Posts: 100
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by solid7 View Post
OK, thanks for your reply. Is vermiculite an acceptable substitute for perlite? I have 4 cu ft of "specialty" vermiculite, which most people around here use for starting seeds. It's very small - about pin head size.
I think vermiculite retains more water that perlite. So this may keep the mix too 'wet'. Both provide aeration and water retention but perlite is a volcanic glass that holds water by being porous and not "absorbing" it.

In my Earthtainers, Earthboxes and 5 gallon bucket SWC I used extra perlite (in addition to what was in my mix.) In my Smartpots I used vermiculite instead in hopes of keeping more moisture in the mix here in my hot climate.

I did mix up my own coir based mix to test out, one Earthtainer and one 5 gallon bucket. Most mixes I used already had perlite in them so I used the 8:5:2 ratio (see the Earthtainer guide - mix:fines:perlite.) However, the coir obviously had none to start so I used extra. I only used one extra scoop of perlite (8:5:3) as the coir mix seemed to feel and look more aerated on it's own. If I remember right from a post in the past you want around 30% perlite in the mix???

Now, I am no expert so this is all coming from a rookie and someone may give better or more detailed info. So hopefully somebody else will chime in. And depending on your summer weather you could probably use different ratios of perlite and vermiculite based on how quickly water is depleted from your soil.

Hope this is some help

Justin
jmhammRN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old May 13, 2014   #5
solid7
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Florida (East Central Coast)
Posts: 78
Default

Thanks for the feedback. Just to clarify - I am using coco peat. This stuff behaves, for the most part, like peat. (in container gardening, it's a direct substitute, minus the need for dolomitic lime or gypsum due to no PH issues) This is NOT fiber, and not chips. Although it makes me wonder if the coco chips that I have might be acceptable to substitute for fines. Not a problem, either way, as I have 55 gallons of beautifully composted pine bark fines that I made with layers of alfalfa hay inbetween the layers of pine bark

Thanks for clarifying the perlite vs vermiculite.
solid7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old May 13, 2014   #6
JamesL
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 1,992
Default

Solid7,

Coco Coir vs Peat - Any particular reason? The wicking properties are supposed to be the same but one of the issues appears to be wicking when using over 50% coir.
Salt is another reported issue.
I had considered coir, but after reading the Green Roof gangs experience, I stuck to Peat.
https://www.google.com/#q=green+roof+growers%2C+coir

A liquid fert made out of the rabbit manure and vermicompost would definitely work (presuming it has the the right NPK) in lieu of, or a supplement to, a fertilizer strip.
Fert Strip - Tomato tone and Fox Farms are both organic.

You can be equally successful using liquid feed as opposed to the fertilizer strip. Provides more control, but it is more work.
JamesL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old May 14, 2014   #7
solid7
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Florida (East Central Coast)
Posts: 78
Default

JamesL - the main reason for coco peat, is because I have so much of it. I use it almost exclusively over peat for containers. Because I can get away from having to PH the mix, it eliminates a layer of complexity, with (at least in containers) no noticeable decrease in performance over "traditional" mixes.

The salt issue doesn't concern me at all. Over the course of a growing season, there should be no more issue with salt in coco than salt accumulation from synthetic fertilizers. Most distributors of coco coir have caught onto the salt issue, and most brands on the market these days are thoroughly rinsed. But even so, in my not-so-informed opinion, I can't imagine building a SWC without a flush port. Between anaerobic bacteria, sludge, and insect larva, there's just no good reason not to install a clean-out method.

For the fertilizer - liquid ferts are possible, but I'd be more inclined to want to use the castings and poo in solid form, just like I do with my other containers. Rabbit poo can be applied directly in containers, so I generally like to let it dry out, and apply it liberally at the surface with a good mulch over.

Thanks for the fert recommendations. When I actually get enough info to proceed in a direction, I'll like to do a side-by-side comparison. After all, one mustn't argue with results.
solid7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old May 15, 2014   #8
HydroExplorer
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 132
Default

A lot of people use coco because it's more sustainable. I prefer coco because it stores in a nice compact block.

I agree with the first reply, you want to put pearlite in with coco. I'm doing my hydroponic carrots like that and it seems to retain enough moisture without drowning them even if I forget to water them. I'm hand watering that container (trash can) and I've been really non-attentive with it. The plants survived.

Life forced me to be away from my garden for 2 weeks and they survived (no watering). They were sad but they're still alive.
HydroExplorer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old May 15, 2014   #9
JamesL
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 1,992
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by solid7 View Post
JamesL - the main reason for coco peat, is because I have so much of it. I use it almost exclusively over peat for containers. Because I can get away from having to PH the mix, it eliminates a layer of complexity, with (at least in containers) no noticeable decrease in performance over "traditional" mixes.

The salt issue doesn't concern me at all. Over the course of a growing season, there should be no more issue with salt in coco than salt accumulation from synthetic fertilizers. Most distributors of coco coir have caught onto the salt issue, and most brands on the market these days are thoroughly rinsed. But even so, in my not-so-informed opinion, I can't imagine building a SWC without a flush port. Between anaerobic bacteria, sludge, and insect larva, there's just no good reason not to install a clean-out method.

For the fertilizer - liquid ferts are possible, but I'd be more inclined to want to use the castings and poo in solid form, just like I do with my other containers. Rabbit poo can be applied directly in containers, so I generally like to let it dry out, and apply it liberally at the surface with a good mulch over.

Thanks for the fert recommendations. When I actually get enough info to proceed in a direction, I'll like to do a side-by-side comparison. After all, one mustn't argue with results.
Good luck and would definitely like to know if you can make the R manure work in a sub irrigated setup.
JamesL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old May 15, 2014   #10
solid7
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Florida (East Central Coast)
Posts: 78
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesL View Post
Good luck and would definitely like to know if you can make the R manure work in a sub irrigated setup.
We have a local grower who claims to only use manure and worm tea. I'd sure love to be able toget away with that...
solid7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:36 PM.


★ Tomatoville® is a registered trademark of Commerce Holdings, LLC ★ All Content ©2022 Commerce Holdings, LLC ★