Texas Fall planting question

[glypnirsgirl]

Hi - I missed the best planting window for this spring, so I am hoping to have a fall plant out. Being new to this, I have no idea how to time for fall.

I would really appreciate any advice that you might be able to give to me.

Thanks!
Elaine

[kwselke]

I have no tomato experience in the DFW area, but this should be a good guide.

http://plantanswers.tamu.edu/fallgarden/falldirect.html

[robin303]

Well Tx is unique. I grow or have a season year round. When the summer season winds down and around the first frost that is when I plant my Collard Greens, Broccoli, Carrots, Chives and about 400 onion plants. Even my Catnip does good.

[glypnirsgirl]

I am looking forward to direct seeding lettuce, carrots and onions in the fall. And I have found a great recipe for a mustard green salad -- so I might try mustard but what I was really hoping for was advice on when to plant the seeds so that I can put them out for the fall garden. Using the guide that kwselke posted, it looks like I should plant the seeds July 1st ... but how will the plants be big enough to plant out on July 15th when they recommend?

thanks for the help so far
Elaine

[Polar_Lace]

Elaine,

Start the tomato seeds in the beginning of June. Just count backwards : x= germination/sprouting days + the added days to plant out in your garden. I think 2 weeks time in the open air, in your garden should be enough time to transplant them into permanent spots is long enough. Unless you want the stems on your tomato plants to be longer to make deeper roots.

That shouldn't be long; because at that time it should be warm enough to germinate the seeds outdoors; Directly in your garden.

Do remember that it will challenge you to keep the seeds moist enough for the seeds to germinate. It's not just the heat, it's the hot air and wind that will work against you too.

~* Robin

[feldon30]

Robin is right on. Start seeds the first week of June. I start seeds indoor, planting pre-soaked seeds into moist (but not sopping) seed starting mix, and cover with a clear plastic dome. I don't water until they sprout, and once they do, they go immediately under fluorescent lights. Plant out around mid-July or whenever you can go outside and garden for more than 10 minutes without bursting into flames.

I'm not growing fall tomatoes this year. After 3 years of it and getting a few good tomatoes before we have an overnight low in the 40's which saps the flavor out of them, I'm going to shift gears. There are lots of other things I can grow like potatoes, beans, lettuce, etc.

[Dewayne mater]

Good advice has been given so far. If you can keep your Spring plants healthy enough, it is also possible to start from cuttings of those vs. from seed. I would suggest that you only chose cherry and/or early varieties, because the fall growing window is shorter. Also, consider where you plant in the garden because by Oct 1, the sun is markedly lower on the horizon and what was sunny in summer may be shady in the fall and too much shade won't work. Good luck.

[Mojo]

Feldon has it right-on. That first serious cold snap around November 10 or so (Houston) really slows things down. You have a very limited window for fruit-set between Hot Time and Not-Hot Time. Putting out transplants too early and you fight to keep them alive; put them out too late and you either miss the fruit-set window or are running the race against first frost.

If you are going to try, go with a short variety. I've gotten passable results with Early Girl. Cherries are also a good option.

[dew]

ditto for 'cherries are a good option.'
http://plantanswers.tamu.edu/fallgarden/falldirect.html another vote for this, I used it to plant chard and broccoli and arugula and lots of lettuces

[kwselke]

Elaine,

The guide has both direct planting dates for seed into the prepared garden, and transplant dates for things like tomatoes. Allow six weeks when starting tomato transplants indoors.

Ken

Half the fun of gardening is doing and trying to figure it out.

[creister]

Fall is tough, because you have to watch overheating real close. I always lose some plants to heat when I do fall tomatoes. Last year, Super Sioux and Thessoliniki did well as fall tomatoes.

[creister]

Forgot to mention, I had to use some shade cloth last year.

[glypnirsgirl]

WOW! Lots of helpful information.

It sounds like tomatoes are tough for fall --- so I will try to stick with my black cherries and tiny tims for fall - about 2 plant each.

I really appreciate the advice on moving the garden for the fall. Right now I am able to plant close to a fence that I figured out I will not be able to plant next to in the fall. I will be planting further north in the garden.

I may try the African Togo Tegelese (sp?) since it is supposed to do well in heat to see if it will set fruit in the flames of summer.

Thank you so much.

Elaine

[glypnirsgirl]

Well I feel very lucky. Despite my late start, I am having wonderful production from my tomatoes. The African Togo Teferle are still blooming and setting fruit. The tomatoes are tasty. The Brandywines are HUGE and turning red. But the star of the garden BY FAR is the Brown Berries! I love the flavor of this tomato --- and I would not have planted except for the recommendations here.

So far the fall, given the recommendations here, i am planting 8 Brown Berries (all germinated) and I am trying the Cherokee Purples and Boxcar Willies again.

I have several varieties that were not worth the room. Top of that list are the Tiny Tims - so so flavor, not productive, why bother. And the Ceylon tomatoes which are also still producing and still flowering and have disease resistant, too bad that they do not taste better than a supermarket variety. I have Yellow Zebras, not productive - three tomatoes on the whole plant, but they do taste good.