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Old March 11, 2017   #22
Worth1
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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One thing you need to do first is to get rid of the irrigation valves you have maybe.
You need ones with flow control.
This will give you the exact output pressure you want.
These are the ones I use.
They can be used from .025 to 30 GPM.
https://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/I...e-p/2500tf.htm
All irrigation controllers have what is called a Master valve/Pump start station.
What you will see on them is the connections for the power (maybe) two connections for the rain sensor (jumped out), the master valve and then the stations for how ever many stations you have.
And a common for all valves.

There are two ways you can connect the pump start relay.
One is to wire it parallel with the master valve.
The other is to wire it parallel with the valve that controls the drip system.
Both will work.
Connecting it to the master valve the pump will always come on anytime a station comes on.
Connecting it to a station it will only come on when that station comes on.

Here is a description of one.

  • Electrical relays for both low voltage (24V ac) control switching and high voltage (120V ac or 240V ac) main power contacts
    - Allows remote pump switching using 24V ac output from an irrigation controller’s master valve/pump start circuit
    - Opens and closes main power contacts for pumps (1HP at 120V ac 1 Phase or 2HP at 250V ac 1 Phase)
    - Note: 2HP at 120V ac will exceed maximum amp rating.
  • Highly efficient 0.1 Amp operating requirement
    Draws less holding power than most solenoid valves
  • Can also be used with the Irritrol PC Control system for switching control of low voltage landscape lighting
    Saves the expense of an extra timer and puts irrigation and landscape lighting control in one location on the owner’s computer
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