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Old February 26, 2018   #13
b54red
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
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Originally Posted by beetkvass View Post
Can someone please advice me on seed starting? I need to start my root stock first and then my scions, is that correct? How many days apart should I start them?

I hope no one minds. This is my first year trying grafting and I'm probably going to have a lot of questions. I have my DM to start my root stock in too. Thanks!
I like to start my scions before I start my root stock. Generally about 4 to 7 days between. The reason for this is that it is much easier to use a too large scion than a too large root stock. It is always best if they are nearly the same size but if the scion is too tall I just go up it to make the cut where it matches the diameter of the root stock. If the root stock it too tall or too large in diameter it is very hard to use it without grafting so far up the plant that it is difficult to place it in a good healing chamber.

I have so far this season grafted three batches totalling around 70 plants. They have all been through the healing process with no fatalities which is very unusual. I just transplanted the healing plants from the large or medium DE that I use when putting them in the healing chamber into cups with potting soil. I will reuse the DE. I use small grain DE for starting all my tomato and pepper seed and use the medium DE (Optisorb) when potting the grafted plants to go into the healing chamber. I go through all this to save myself the heavy loses from damping off type diseases that are so common down here. I am listing the steps I take in grafting below for you if you want to try them. I think they will help you have better success.

I pull the root stock seedling out of the small grain DE in which it has been growing and pull off most of the roots. I then cut off a scion and lay it on top of the root stock on a cutting board making sure to line up the two stems so I can see where they are the nearest to each other in shape and thickness. I then make a diagonal cut through them both where they match the best. Make sure there are no leaf junctures that will interfere with joining the tow together before making the cut. Then I join them together with a silicon clip and hold it up to a strong light and make sure they fit well together and that the clip is the right size so it isn't too loose.

I put some Optisorb in a Styrofoam coffee cup that has holes in it so it will drain well making sure to label the graft variety. I then pour some dilute fertilizer like Miracle Grow over the DE until it is draining out the bottom and allow it to drain well. Then I take my finger and make a hole and set the graft in it and push the moist DE around it and firm it up. I then check it again against a strong light and make sure I haven't disturbed the union of the root stock and scion. Then I take some clean dry Optisorb and pour it from my hand around the base of the grafted plant to help support it and also to keep the surface drier.

I then place the completed graft in a healing chamber which is nothing but a plastic clear tote with a flat bottom that can be closed tightly with a clear lid. I keep the lid lightly sitting on top and only lift it to put in the next graft and I also mist the lid to keep it moist and keep the humidity level up. Once I have all the grafts done which can take a while I will mist the lid and seal it shut for two days in dark shade. I sometimes place a towel over the healing chamber if it is not in enough shade.

During the two days of darkness I will take off the lid a couple of times preferably in the early morning or evening for a few minutes to allow in some fresh air. If the lid isn't moist then I will mist it again. The third day I just place the lid on the chamber without clamping it shut and usually by the end of the third day or the fourth day I will crack the lid so some ventilation takes place and gradually open it more each day unless I see some wilting. If I see wilting then I will mist the lid and close it up for a few hours and try opening it up again. If the weather is humid and cool then this process can be shortened and if it is very hot it may take longer and failure will usually increase.

By the sixth or seventh day I generally have the plants outside or at least on the porch in good light with the lids completely off. At this time a few may wither or wilt and die but that is just part of the process. Grafts don't always take no matter how careful you are. I also try to give the plants a good little drink of fertilized water when the lids come off for good. When the plants start showing some decent growth I will then gently take them out of the DE and pour the DE into a container for use again later. I then pot them into the same cups with regular potting soil and place a skewer or two to keep them upright then give them a good drink of fertilized water. If you are using the silicon clips with the loops in them they are great for threading the skewer through and supporting the plants. I then harden them off and when they are ready I plant them. I usually leave the clips and skewers on them when setting them out in very windy conditions unless the plants have hardened off so long the clips start popping off on their own.

If you have any more questions you can PM me. I hope this helps you. Once you get the hang of it and figure out some of the little missteps it isn't as difficult as it first appears.

Bill
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