I'm making my fall garden plans now. Here's a list of what I'll be growing and about when I'll be starting sets and/or direct seeding. Keep in mind I'm farther south than your location so start times for you might vary.
Bush Bean, Contender - planting Sep 4-5. It's a 40-50 day bean so finishes fast and produces lots for me. I hope so because this heat is treating my spring beans badly!
Broccoli, Packman - Stagger starting four sets of three plants each every 7-10 days starting mid July for fresh eating so I won't have a ton of broccoli at once. Learned my lesson! Packman also produces a ton of side shoots after the initial harvest if you keep them fertilized.
Cabbage, Stonehead and Charleston Wakefield - Starting sets Sep 4-5. Stonehead is round and a 50-60 day cabbage. The Chas. Wakefield is a 70 day pointy headed variety developed for the South. Tasty too!
Carrots - Still undecided as to fall variety but will sow them Sep 4-5.
Cucumber, National Pickling - sowing mid July. A 52 day variety. Doing just a few for fresh eating as the spring batch is kicking out a lot right now and will handle all the pickles I want to do.
Collards, Vates - A 68 day variety; starting just 3 plants on July 21. For just two of us, three plants is a plenty along with the kale. Collards and kale last all fall, winter and spring here.
Kale, Premier - A 60 day variety; starting just 3 plants on July 21. I used to grow just Dwarf Siberian but found that Premier has larger leaves and held up in very cold winter weather as well as the Siberian. Both are more flat leaf than frilly. Frilly gives aphids too many nooks and crannies to hide and multiply in.
Field peas (aka Southern peas, cow peas), Big Red Ripper - I will plant these in the corn rows once I pull the stalks out. Probably mid July. This is a large rambunctious field pea that produces heavily for me.
Peppers - Down here spring peppers just get going well and start producing and then the heat mid June through August slows them way down. But if you can just keep them alive they'll bounce right back and produce in the fall for you until frost.
Radishes, round and daikon - Succession plant these when the weather cools down. I like French Breakfast. If you do daikon (I love 'em!), prep the soil deeply and give them 6" spacing. The tops will get huge.
Scallions, Warrior - A 60 day variety. I do my sets from seed. They take about 2 months to make 1/8" wide seedlings so I will sow some market packs July 11 for mid September or later planting, depending on how hot it is.
Tomatoes, Summer squash/zukes - I started one of each squash and three more tomatoes on June 15th for planting in 15 gallon buckets rather than down in the garden. I want to keep an eye on them as well as protect from the nematodes that love the hot weather.
Turnips, Purple Top - A 55 day variety that has consistently produced for me. Sowing 18' of them (one side of a raised bed) Sep 4-5 and I'll probably stagger the planting into two groups, ten days apart. One can have too many turnips ready at once!
If you do bulbing onions and garlic, that is October planting here.
If you're wondering about my use of specific sowing dates, it's because I've been playing with the "planting by the moon" thing for two springs/falls now. Certain dates are listed in the almanac as being better for above or below ground crops not just because there is a waning or waxing moon but also certain zodiac signs. So far it seems my plants are doing better than before but that could be for other reasons too. Too many variables. But it gives me something to play with.
