I used C clamps to clamp the rails to the saw table and then gently tapped them into position first tapping to the exact position left/right, then using the 2 27/32 wooden pieces to get it exactly the right height on both ends. I then tightened down the C clamps and used a pencil to mark the holes on the cast iron table top. A punch to the center and then a 1/8 drill for a pilot hole followed by the 3/8 drill bit for the main bore completed the holes. I like to have a bit of adjustment room so I then used the 3/8 drill bit to trim the hole making an oval out of the round hole. When I put the bolts through and tightened them, a tiny tap with a hammer moved the rail into the right position after which I tightened and torqued the bolts.
The back rail does not support the fence. It supports the side table. It has to be aligned so the saw guard can move as the blade angle is adjusted. I set the fence up so that when the blade is vertical running 90 degree cuts, the blade guard is 1/16 inch from the rail edge. When the blade is run up to maximum 45 degree cuts, the guard is 1/4 inch from the rail edge. Look at the notch on the back rail and this will make sense.
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