Thread: okra starts
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Old June 25, 2020   #8
Zeedman
Tomatovillian™
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 313
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My garden soil is silt loam with clay. Rain beats it into a nearly impenetrable crust... that, and I'm in the North. So direct-seeding okra here has been a hit-or-miss proposition.


I've had good luck with transplants, though. I use peat cells, and the same soil less mix as I use for tomatoes & peppers. Before starting, I poke extra holes in the bottom of the peat cells with an ice pick, to allow more root penetration. Then pack them with the mix, make a depression with a dibble, and plant 5-6 seeds per pot. These are then placed in a standard tray, with enough water added to soak all of the cells (they are soaked over night). In a warm place (I use a heated germination chamber) the seeds germinate in 3-4 days. I put them in direct sun immediately, thin to 3 per cell, and transplant within a week.


The seedlings will quickly outgrow the pots, so must be transplanted soon after emergence. The advantage for me is not getting a jump on the season, but getting a better, more reliable stand. Using 3 plants per pot allows the use of fewer pots... I transplant the 3's 18" apart, in double rows 24" apart. Last year, I had all of the okra I could handle, and made about 12 quarts of pickled okra.
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